idosubaru

Yep yep. eBay requires a learning curve. eBay is a great tool in the tool box if you’ve got the patience to navigate it. But I can understand not wanting too. There’s lots of problems with eBay. It’s just an online flea market where you should have no assumed value in buying from eBay. The act of buying from eBay affords almost no quality control or vetting at all. Verify the part and seller and if there’s any question, move on. Or yeah just avoid it.

Excellent - fix that and see if #4 goes away as I suspect it will and then see where you're at. ATF on the "MAF", as you call it, is odd but yeah clean it or replace with a used SUbaru unit. Aftermarket is *shoulder shrug* and OEM is such high quality and rarely fails that used is the way to go.

Good thought, they may be set up to tell you what the injectors can do and support HP wise. When I’ve sent injectors to RC engineering and witchhunter (including XT6 injectors) they included before and after testing...of spray pattern, and maybe more.

1. People often mistake engine and transmission issues. I see it all the time “will you look at my transmission, it’s slipping bad” ends up being an engine issue. The RPMs shooting up and lack of lower can emulate slipping but it’s actually not. It’s just so underpowered and poor performing everything is working against vehicle movement 2. Was the original torque converter used or the one with the new trans? 3. fix the engine issues first. 4. list the exact engine codes your getting. Number and description. 5. “Too lean” suggests there’s a simple vacuum leak, very common after an engine or trans pull. Check the brake booster vacuum supply hose and intake hose and all fittings, clamps, etc. make sure there are no leaks. 6. Spray starting fluid around the intake. Start at the air filter and slowly work your past all the hoses, hose connections under the intake hose and to the engine where the intake clamps to the engine. With a bottle is starter fluid in hand this takes like 5 minutes or less. Easy. if there’s a hose leak it’ll suck the starting fluid in and just squirting fluid will cause the RPMs to jump. Then you know you have a leak. You should be able to spray that without any change to engine idling RPM. Any change shows a leak. That’s a long explanation just in case you haven done it before, but it’s so easy, and that’s so common, give it a shot.

Exactly the right thing to be looking at - usually won’t know if it’s usable until you get in there. I think that’s EVAP type capture stuff. Not critical but you don’t want it open either. ive probably replaced one of those pieces but don’t recall, usually didn’t need to but we wouldn’t be surprised to see one that needs it and I’ve generally tried to avoid rusty subarus for 5 or more years now so I’m sure they’re getting worse overall. You can have a sheet of gasket material on hand and cut your own if needed. Or yeah I’d just have the OEM one on hand. It may be reusable, its a vapor barrier more than sitting in fluids but at this age and rust it probably makes sense to have a plan for replacement. It can seem like it’s the wrong part on some models, but get the right angle where the top sits in the body and bottom goes in the hose and it sets in place just right.

Been years since I’ve been into the injectors like this. Yes EA82(T) and ER injectors are interchangeable. maybe you could ask the rebuild company if there are ways to improve the injectors you’re sending them? I don’t think this will be the route you want but you might want to be aware. Other EA82T market specs were higher output than US (Europe, JDM maybe) and some people said injectors were part of that equation. Though that doesn’t seem worth the effort, if it’s even true.

some WRX and STi struts have clearances for larger tires I believe. Thanks for clarifying that.

Not sure if it matters to you but aftermarket hoods are thinner and lower grade. that’s why most people suggest buying a used color matched hood. Depending on your area and vehicle it’s usually not hard to get a rust free hood in the same color. aftermarket hood, shipping, painting will be $500 or DIY for $250. You can usually buy a used one cheaper than that.

I spent too much time this morning searching and got nowhere due to lowering, custom struts, custom wheels.... Does anyone know is stock 16" outback tires will clear any year legacy or impreza struts?

Ignore it. If your salt exposure is bad enough for that to be problematic in 7 years then your rear quarters, exhaust and suspension are all going to be a dramatic mess. like he said that’s labor intensive to get it right and it’s going to be madly susceptible to problems. Rusting anyway, clear coat peeling, poorly done paint issues, not matching, blending... Bare minimum grind/sand each spot, clean and prep and hit it with a bottle of Subaru touch up paint more specifically if it needs to look nice, sand all the rust off, treat with POR15, clean, prep the areas for painting and prime, paint, clear coat it all while doing your best to blend each area or one large area. At which point - sand paper, POR15, primer, paint, clear and tools you don’t have - it may be easier and cheaper to just strip it all and start from scratch depending how big the area is. That’s what a shop would do. They wouldn’t typically address all those little dings. don’t get me wrong it Can be done if you’re high on time and wherewithal. but if you’re asking that probably means you’re not a paint guy and that’s something that’s as much art than science and requires a skill set that isn’t easily got from reading. I avoid it at all costs because I’m bad at it and it’s not my skill set. it’s way harder than dropping engines and trans and tearing them apart. Compared to body work and paint, that stuff is easy: “this bolt goes in this whole - wash-rinse-repeat”.Painting is not that simple and automotive prime/paint/clear finishes are more akin to chemistry than you’re average latex house paint. People too often equate painting a car with painting a house and that’s not in the same ball park. again - it can be done but start googling, you won’t learn it all in one thread. after all that Work, like lmdew said, it would be cheaper or the same cost, and take 10 hours less time to just buy a used color matched hood. there generally aren’t many short cuts to body, paint and rust work.

I haven't done a brat but for other Subaru's, even some old Gen, I do the same as he does:

Too bad they didn't give one extra detail, "charging problem" is ambiguous. Normal wiring issue (connection, wiring, cleaning) or bad aftermarket alternator are most likely without knowing anything. If a competent shop didn't do the work there's no telling if it's just something they're doing or missing. In the past there were numerous complaints of aftermarket H6 alternators not working properly. But identical symptoms two alternators in a row? Seems unlikely. unless during the first repair attempt they replaced the battery and alternator at the same time so to speak and they fixed the original charging problem but introduced another one - which the newest alternator mimmicks, because it's no good or not H6 compatible. The H6 alternators have a reference signal from the ECU.

Crank case ventilation A hose connects from there to a metal tree which has 4 additional hoses connecting to the: 1. intake (see the ports on the picture of the bottom of an XT6 intake hose) 2. one for each valve covers (see the port on the top of each valve cover) 3. And the top most of the tree goes to the PCV valve in the intake manifold

Get the FSM procedure and look it over. They’re free all over the internet. If you’re worried and don’t have it, get it. Install them dry, per factory.

For late 90s fuel filler necks it’s best to look at what you have and verify what you need. For a variety of reasons not worth explaining it’s easy to get the wrong fuel filler tube in late 90s stuff. The necks are all basically the same but vary in how many of those small tubes they have. Imdew is incredibly kind - if he’s offering, that’s your best bet as you’ll want to check yours no matter which way you decide. On those 90s necks I’d want to know what I have first, even if ordering from Subaru with the VIN.

I’ve never seen Tightening the valve cover bolts slow down a leak. The gasket is too brittle and hard, tightening doesn’t mitigate that on Subarus. Subaru valve cover gaskets are easy. There’s two bolts that are hard to get at - the lower rear corner bolts on each side - this has been true for many generations of subarus back to the 80s and probably 70s. They’ve all basically been identical in approach. A quality ratcheting 10mm wrench makes all the difference in the world on the rear lower cover bolts. they can be insanely difficult to remove without that tool and easy with it. plan on it taking a little longer than you think and you’ll be golden. It’s not bad at all, actually they’re easy. one of those retractable mirrors might be mildly helpful if this is the first time familiarizing yourself with that area just to get a feel for the area and seeing more clearly what it looks like before you dive in. A side picture of your engine might help too if you can google one just for perspective. Definitely not needed, I’ve never done that for VCs but just depends how much experience you have and how you learn, if you’re visual, etc. If youre rust free and have excellent work space and tools at the ready to lift the engine without taking any set up time then sure do that. most average DIY will spend 30 additional minutes set up, maybe rounding off a rusty 14mm engine mount nut, crawling under and back out multiple times and wash rinse repeat for the other side, all to save 30 minutes for a net gain of 0 minutes. Not worth it unless you have some very compelling set up or reason otherwise.

I assume someone knows but just in case.... The length is a non-issue and they appear very similar, just the spline count on both ends is what needs to work See if the automatic stub shaft part (It just pulls out of the trans real easy and is the same spline count/diameter as MTs) is the same part number for 2005 as it is for 2004 (all 04-01 axles interchange). This will verify that an 01 axle will fit on the 05 trans which I think it does. The hub side will be trickier as they went from pressed in to bolt on bearings so there’s no easy test. They look the same visually and the brakes and struts all swap so they weren’t completely changed.

I didn’t listen but Exhaust heat shields. Very common in rust prone areas. if the fluids 14 years old, change it. highly doubt that will fix your noise but it should be done anyway so I use these opportunities to encourage missed maintenance.

None of them or significantly shorter than the 03 OB KYB i currently have installed.

93-01 impreza 20.7 and 14.21 98 Forester 21.57 and 15.47

Well that's clear as mud! Front left Extended length and compressed length: 03 OB KYB: 20.98, 16.1 01 OB KYB: 21.65, 16.1 98 OB KYB: 21.65, 16.1 98 Legacy GT KYB: 20.71, 14.21

Subaru Technical service bulletin 05-49-10R Replace the strut spring

Thanks. Installing EJ struts in my lifted XT6. 00-04 are too tall and cause the axle to bind because of the extreme axle angle. Need something 1-2" shorter, which is exactly what you're describing.

Agreed you shouldn’t and sorry you bought in during the low friction ring, 0W oil industry wide learning curve. Manufacturers adapted and you’ve got a test mule. Use thicker oil unless you’re still under an extended warranty. After that - use thicker synthetic oil. Id use 10, GD says use 5W and has far more experience than I. You’ll loose 0.04% in gas mileage, yawn or review the extended warranty and see if you’re still covered, and use that thin 0W to see if youll hit consumption high enough for a new block. I see you had it tested once, doesn’t mean you can’t again. Shops/dealers have been known to fill the oil above the line so you never notice it low. Check it after your next change and see if it’s at the mark or not.

Fantastic. That’s exactly what I need. I think I’ve seen that pic before, very cool. Off to grab a legacy strut In my head OB struts seem so much bigger but they’re not. There’s also lift blocks and tires adding to the clearance. Thanks, I’ve been chasing this issue for months. I think this is going to solve it.