idosubaru

not a subaru but my best friend has a toyota 4-runner. it's over 200,000 miles and the only thing that's every failed was the power steering pump. sick, absolutely sick how little he does to it. his engine has a timing belt, he bought the vehicle at 60,000 miles many moons ago and the belt has never been changed since. if the belt was never replaced then it has 200,000 miles on it. if it was replaced just prior to him getting it then it has 140,000. (recommended interval on his is 60,000) i think that's because in maine cars usually rust to death before they hit 50,000?? something doesn't sound right there, you wouldn't get that response from thousands of mechanics across the world on a 120,000 mile timing belt. i've seen lots of belts go and i'm not even a mechanic. saw one about 3 weeks ago, a friend of mines honda.

flush the fluid first. make sure all your tires match in brand, size, tread and tire pressure. if none of that helps, then you'll start looking into replacing the trans or the rear extension housing assembly options.

if you pull the covers off you can verify the timing belt alignment without actually reinstalling it. just verify all your marks are dead on. there's no chance of the wrong pulley, sprocket or tensioner being on this engine is it...thereby artificially throwing the timing off?

if it's one owner and all shop work done there, they should know why it's in the junk yard. i'd wonder why all that work was done and there it sets? but even if you had to put an engine in it, that's not a terrible deal. ask for a good deal on a 2.2 or 2.5 he may have in the yard to go with the car...use that as leverage.

for the timing belt related reseal: Crank seal, cam seal (get the cam seal KITS, not the cam seals. they come with the o-ring that's behind the cam cap), oil pump seals and gaskets (there are 3 in total, all available through the parts bin). replace the PCV valve as well to make sure you're oil isn't blowing everyone internally. if you're going further than the timing belts...in other words, cam and heads then you'll need the $2.13 (used to be) cam carrier o-ring that thepartsbin also sells. you'll need two of those, one for each side. i'd also recommend doing the valve covers as they are typical leakage points as well. your best bet would be to narrow down where the leak is coming from before digging into this. it would be a waste to spend 3 hours (or more) doing your first timing belt only to see it still leaks like a seive and needs the cam carrier resealed...which would require removing the timing belts all over again. narrow down the leak first..... these motors are really easy to work on. to make it easier leave the timing belt covers off (not trying to start this debate again and again and again, some like it and some hate it but just a suggestion. search if you want more info)

i'm not well versed in clutch components so thanks for the input. i'm trying to decide whether we need an extra transmission ready just in case. he said we can take our time so maybe i'll yank the motor and do the clutch and if the clutch looks fine i'll start looking at the trans. will it be obvious that the clutch components (TO bearing) were bad when i pull the motor?

depends what you're looking for, what kind of time you have, what kind of time and money you want to put into it. i wouldn't plan on the motor being good. that's alot of miles and time sitting for those 2.5 liter headgaskets and the engine is an interference engine so if the timing belt had issues that could be problematic as well. price is up to you and what you want out of it. i wouldn't get it because i don't like all the unknowns and putting tons of work into a car. i wouldn't pay it, but even at $500 it's a good deal if you have the time. you could easily end up with a fine driving vehicle for not much money.

this is confusing me and probably others saying "in" with the clutch.... when i have the pedal pressed all the way to the floor there is no noise at all. when i let the pedal out...the noise begins to happen and the clutch catches very high in the pedal stroke, near the top. when i completely let my foot off the pedal, then it's really loud when in neutral. not quiet as loud if it's in gear and driving. another indicator - sometimes if you press the clutch pedal to the floor, you can't get the shifter out of first (probably other gears too, i ddin't try them all). i can yank as hard as i want but it won't come out of gear without moving the car a little first. you said "the engine isn't connected to the trans at that point and it could be making the noise".....but this one doesn't make any noise at all if i have the clutch pedal pushed all the way to the floor. if i let the clutch pedal out, take my foot off the pedal is when the noise happens.

huck is saying it could be the throw out bearing going to $#$!. he says they can be really loud. any signs to look for either way? i'm going to fix it for him, so i want to know whether i need to find a trans or not.

i went for a drive in a friends manual transmission XT6. makes a loud screech when you start it (pilot bearing?). otherwise starts fine and noise goes away nearly immediately. car will drive fine when you put it in gear. DIFF lock works fine. here's the kicker.. if you let the clutch out in neutral it makes VERY loud noises. sounds terrible. really bad, it makes a racket. can a clutch make that much loud noise in neutral? i told him to drain the trans oil and let me know if or how many pieces come out with the oil.

there's a really good thread or webpage i've found searching through the forum on replacing the rear transfer clutches and Duty Solenoid C. it can be done without removing the transmission. unfortunately i don't have that thread saved anywhere and don't recall exactly how to find it. but if you drop the rear of the trans and remove the rear extension housing, that will give you access to Duty Solenoid C.

if you have a known good trans sitting there, i'd definitely use it. swap in the rear diff to match and you're golden. you can ask the off-road guru's what difference changing from 4.11 to 3.90 would make, but it won't be very much. of course verify and then double check all your diff ratios and make certain they match.

are you swapping bearings and the hub insert with the lug studs on it? i'm sure you know the GL-10 is 4 lug and the XT6 is 5 lug so the backing plate isn't your only hill to climb. glad you finally found that part you needed, that took fooooorrrreeeever. cool stuff, good luck!

he said 12 hours, but he did a full head gasket job. that requires lots more cleaning and all of the head bolts, intake and exhaust. there's alot of extra work in the heads. to just remove the cams and replace this o-ring is much easier, though still a big job. very easy to do in the car but there are many tricks that help smooth the job out too. i'd read as many threads here as possible. with all the effort to remove the cams i'd replace all the HLA's myself. new rebuilt units are only $5 a piece from mitpah engineering. the 87 and up EA82, EA82T and ER27 motors i've disassembled had the metal o-ring variety. never done any older than that....i don't think.

good point by Qman, i'd suspect a water pump could be poorly made or something. i don't know anything about water pump impellers in cars, but cavitation seriously impeeds impellers in industrial pumps. i've had enough bad parts from parts stores, maybe the WP is bad? unlikey, but easy enough to replace at least.

moderators moderator can you combine this with the thread in the old generation forum? same guy, same car, same problem. to the poster - be sure to read the thread in the old gen forum. i have the simple stuff to check there, but it is most likely a faulty oil pump seal inside the transmission. i'd look into any options you may have for Subaru to fix this.

more details on why the belts were replaced and what was wrong with it when you got it would help. i'd guess the timing belt has issues. either the cams or crank aren't lined correctly or the tensioner in the timing belt is bad, making the belt artificially off all the time or under load. on the older subaru motors you can look down the spark plug holes and see some of the valves and the piston head. might have a flashlight handy and take a peak down the holes. maybe you can tell if the valves are bent, pistons have marks in the heads or any coolant in the combustion chamber (head gasket leak).

if Duty solenoid C is registering the wrong voltage then i'm guessing it's hosed? unlikely, but worth a shot . check to see if the FWD fuse holder is corroded or otherwise shorted. checking continuity between each side in the fuse holder should tell.

after checking the simple stuff i mentioned i would say the oil pump seals are faulty. from the previous poster i'd persue this as far as you can right now, automatic transmissions are nothing to mess with. if there's even a chance of subaru dealing with it, then by all means persue that.

2000 Outback would be in the "New Generation Forum" but you'll get lots of help here too since it's a basic automatic question. sounds like line pressure issues starting. does the POWER/ATF/Trans light blink when you start the car? check the ATF level. change the transmission fluid. look at the bottom of the transmission and make sure the pan isn't dented. make sure the ATF lines and cooler (in the side of the radiator) aren't clogged. if they appear fine you may want to install a new radiator or an aftermarket ATF cooler and bypass the questionable radiator side tank. (the aftermarket coolers are only $30 and much cheaper than a radiator. this can be the onset of more serious problems or no big deal, best to check thoroughly now. if everything checks out i'd keep driving and see if it gets worse or stays the same. i've seen subaru's do this for 50,000 miles (off the top of my head) and never get worse or cause problems. now if it's something serious it'll get worse fairly quickly with increasing delays and shifting issues.

yes humidity can cause that, they rust easily.

is it an AWD transmission? if is and they didn't tow it on a flat bed the trans will likely last about 0- 3,000 miles before showing signs of internal failure.

check to see if duty solenoid C has 12 volts. if it goes away with the FWD fuse in then that should rule out any Duty Solenoid C issues (at least connectivity issues). check diffs (and check again, this has been seen before)

you do not want to do this swap. the auto trans will also need the wiring harness swapped over too, big PITA going from manual to auto. i'm not a brat expert so i hope i'm wrong, but on all the newer soobs starting with the EA82 80's vehicles would be a nasty job. but of course it *can* be done. in your list of needs you also need to add the pedal assembly (annoying to swap). you shouldn't have any problems finding a decently priced transmnission for your brat and leaving it manual. with the age and miles on these things i'd want to stick with a manual anyway. i'd think a 20 year old automatic would be much more likely to have problems later on. the ATF coolant lines flow through the radiator side tanks, that's the difference you saw. you would either need the radiator for an automatic or install an aftermarket stand alone ATF cooler ($30). you'll also need the rear driveshaft since the auto and manual trans are different lengths. if the rear diff is a different ratio (it usually is from auto to manual), you'd need to swap the rear diff with it as well. thats really easy to do though. didn't brats change between 82 and 87?

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