idosubaru

crazy!! so you can tell a difference between 7 psi and 20psi? (i know nothing about off roading). i do drive through snow and off road alot as necessary for hunting, etc but i don't know anything about ofroading in those terms. would have never guessed 7 psi though. is that mud, rocks or anything?

You can still install them yourself, buy them from the dealer. i'd never recommend letting the dealer do something that simple. many subaru addicts highly recommend sticking with NGK plugs. those you can get anywhere, you don't have to go to Subaru . but that's not nearly as critical as the wires, the Bosch you likely wouldn't have any problems with. if the plugs and wires don't help, swap in another coil pack, it is very very easy to replace. it's the little box that all your spark plugs plug into. i think it only requires removing 2 or 3 bolts and it comes off. very easy to do and easy to find. post in the Market Place forum here and someone probably has a used one you can buy for cheap. i would at least try that before taking it to a mechanic...that is, if the plugs and wires don't help. actually swapping in another coil pack is easier than changing the plugs and wires.

WOW! that's huge!

i have heard great things about the EG33 in terms of supporting forced induction. the ER27 is a terrible candidate for high power applications from the highly experienced and knowledgeable people that i've talked to. catch 22...sort of, the one that needs the forced induction (ER27) is a far cry in terms of block design for supporting it. the EG33 with 230 hp, comes with almost 100 hp more right out of the box than the ER27. and it's a better block design for high power applications. there are also kits available for that motor. there is nothing for the ER27. (the EG33 also functions as a non-interference engine !!)

radiator cap and thermostat are cheap and easy to replace so it's nice to rule them out right away and not risk further overheats for something simple. for your instance, i'd say the cap sounds like it's doing it's job. any more problems after your refill and i'd replace the thermostat. radiator, water pump then head gaskets is where we're going to go after that.

on a side note, has any work been done recently, any accidents, anything prior to this starting? or it just all started happening randomly? worse when it's raining? is your charging system okay...alternator and batter?

they will not cut it. maybe temporarily, but they are far from the best choice i can promise you that. throw everything you know about engines out the door when you're talking about EJ series spark plugs, these motors are not forgiving. any other Subaru motor will run fine on whatever. you do not want to use anything but Subaru spark plug wires on an EJ series engine (EJ22, EJ25). if you do install them, i'd plan to replace them very soon. better off just returning them, get your money back and getting Subaru. if you don't know this engine very well, it is in your best interest to heed my advice. spark plug wires are spark plug wires.....for everything but the EJ series engine that is in your vehicle. these motors are not forgiving at all. i'll quit my rambling, but i am certainly not suggesting this for kicks or as a matter of oppinion...well except to say my oppinion is that spark plug wires that don't last very long are a bad thing. the coil pack is the little box that all the spark plug wires connect too. since a cylinder mis-fire is almost always ignition related, you have 4 mis-fire codes and all 4 spark plugs connect to the coil pack, it sounds like that's a good place to look.

make sure you're using Subaru only plug wires. dont' use any aftermarkets (magnecor are the only aftermarket options that are good, but most don't get those). i'd be suspicious of the coil pack.

good point. that's probably not even enough to make up for the inherent speedo error! either the road signs or the odometer was off on mine by about 2-3%. that's over a few hundred miles of straight highway driving, so something was off. odometer always reads less than highway mile markers.

maybe i meant to say it won't up-shift. grrr for not driving it....

that's the thing, you'll be very very hard pressed to even come close to 200 hp in an ER27. i can't stress enough how limited they are stock, even with all the basic intake, exhaust and other tidbits...they don't even come close to 200. huck over at http://www.xt6.net just finished installing an EG33 into his XT6. it was tight and required a ton of work, but he is documenting it. he's included a basic list of everything that was needed. it was very tight in an XT6, not sure how a loyale would fair. i think the EG33 would be the way to go. i've seen a number of SVX's sell in the $400 - $1000 range. usually had issues, but you just need the engine and goodies. thing that sucks is that all SVX's came stock as auto trans so you'd be hard pressed to find a complete donor with EG33 and manual trans.

here they are, only $75: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49775

sometimes subaru prices aren't as bad as you'd think. price them online as well. or get a used one, they can be had fairly cheap. if you have your old one you can have MWE in denver rebuild it for you, they are highly regarded on this site. they may even have these newer axles in stock. they are listed under the Vendor forum i believe.

to talk about whether the EJ25 has head gasket issues and try to chalk it up to "age and mileage" seems less than fair to anyone who doesn't know much about cars - all anyone has to do is type "head gasket" in the search function and see all the 2.5 threads comes up. that removes our own bias and let's users make an informed decision. if it were strictly age and mileage related then EJ22's would be blowing away the EJ25 posts because they've been around for much longer. but they are rare. i agree, they are good engines, it's two gaskets, i don't see a big deal in that mysel either. but depends on your definition of bad. a $1,500 repair bill won't hurt me, but i don't think everyone can say that. so it's good for others to know. but EJ25's blow headgaskets at 30,000 - 50,000 - 80,000....a trend that wasn't seen in the EA82, ER27, EG33, EJ18, EJ22....a pre 100,000 mile head failure in one of those engines if nearly unheard of. we should each make a thread about our oppinion and just copy and paste the link every 4 days this comes up!!!!

could it be for an aftermarket pressure gauge?

i knew i should have driven it yesterday. they didn't seem to indicate it had any torque bind issues though, it's all while driving straight. that seems to suggest the clutches are fine. i'll have to drive it next time i see them.

are you guys compensating for the larger diameter tires and speedo being off? speedo will record fewer miles than actually travelled with larger tires. i routinely install larger tires and get better highway gas mileage (adjusting for the increased circumference/speedo difference). my car is covering more ground (larger circumference) with the same RPM's. but i'm talking completely different application and tire choice. i want better mileage and dont get wide, aggressive tires. but that should compensate for some of the loss on the larger tires as well.

i echo what GD said. if it's for power definitely don't go with the ER27. i've owned 10+ XT6's and have played with these motors for close to 10 years. not worth all that effort in my oppinion. i guess the hp numbers look way higher than EA's, but they are sloooww and there isn't much modification to be done to them. go with an EJ series motor and trans swap (or get an adapter plate to keep your EA trans). if power is the goal, get a turbo motor. if reliability is the goal, go with an EJ. pretty sure the ER27 will drop right in your EA cross member. the XT6 just has a front motor mount that the EA motors don't have. you'll have to fabricate something for that unless you want to chance it (i wouldn't). but the EJ will drop right on your crossmember as well. by far the easiest (and much cheaper) way to do this is buy an entire car. i've gotten 4 free XT6's and other free subaru's and plenty others for real cheap. an EJ series subaru can be had for chump change as well. you've got a lot of time, so find a place to store it and keep your eye out for a wrecked EJ or something. turbo EJ motors can get expensive, a cheaper solution may be to install a non-turbo EJ and put a turbo on it, others have had excellent results doing that.

being in florida i can understand, insane quantities of blinding rain are much more common down there. 80's wipers probably are lacking for that area.

1999 Legacy SUS, 100,000 miles, 2.5. 4EAT auto trans, AWD. when going down a hill the transmission won't down shift, stays in really high RPM's. i haven't driven in it yet, but they said it does it every time, they know exactly when and where it will do it on the roads they take. this is in WV, so lots of hills. ATF was replaced by the dealer when troubleshooting and they got nowhere. then a local mechanic said he had seen this before on this year vehicle. i found that to be a strange comment since i've never seen it mentioned here and couldn't find anything while searching. trans would also at one point go into reverse while at a stop light when it was in DRIVE. that was fixed though, i imagine just the linkage had issues? anyway, the other down shifting problem still exists.

nipper is dead on. replacing that axle should in no way cause that to be happening. new axles with issues aren't that rare, seen it a number of times with other people on this site and i've had a brand new one explode within a week of installing...first time i ever saw the inside of a CV joint...all over the ground??? since then i'll always install a used Subaru axle before any aftermarkets.

sounds all minor. that engine and trans have a fine shot of making lots more miles. if you post pictures of the bad areas may be able to help more. replacing the window motor will be the tricky part. i'd get a used 2000 window motor ($25-$75) and have your friendly neighborhood mechanic replace yours. price one at Subaru, but i'm guessing they're through the roof on their prices.

i'd get another used unit (post on the wanted forums) and go to town on that one if this car is your daily driver. rain-X is awesome, i highly recommend it. although it works best at 35 mph and over in my soobs.

as long as the rear diff is the right ratio it doesn't matter whether it's LSD or not.

remove the one on the passengers side and you have a one wiper EA82!! the blade is easily adjustable with a little playing around you can get a different blade, any length you want installed on the arm of an XT wiper motor. you'd probably have to swap over an XT cowel, that doesn't sound very fun. the transmissions on them are very hard to find by the way. if you find a good one and regrease it though it should be fine for the life of the vehicle. sounds like a lot of work for a strange feature! not sure about the controls...i guess it shouldn't be too hard to install the right wiring/plugs. might be a simple splice and go.