idosubaru

if you have a known good trans sitting there, i'd definitely use it. swap in the rear diff to match and you're golden. you can ask the off-road guru's what difference changing from 4.11 to 3.90 would make, but it won't be very much. of course verify and then double check all your diff ratios and make certain they match.

are you swapping bearings and the hub insert with the lug studs on it? i'm sure you know the GL-10 is 4 lug and the XT6 is 5 lug so the backing plate isn't your only hill to climb. glad you finally found that part you needed, that took fooooorrrreeeever. cool stuff, good luck!

he said 12 hours, but he did a full head gasket job. that requires lots more cleaning and all of the head bolts, intake and exhaust. there's alot of extra work in the heads. to just remove the cams and replace this o-ring is much easier, though still a big job. very easy to do in the car but there are many tricks that help smooth the job out too. i'd read as many threads here as possible. with all the effort to remove the cams i'd replace all the HLA's myself. new rebuilt units are only $5 a piece from mitpah engineering. the 87 and up EA82, EA82T and ER27 motors i've disassembled had the metal o-ring variety. never done any older than that....i don't think.

good point by Qman, i'd suspect a water pump could be poorly made or something. i don't know anything about water pump impellers in cars, but cavitation seriously impeeds impellers in industrial pumps. i've had enough bad parts from parts stores, maybe the WP is bad? unlikey, but easy enough to replace at least.

moderators moderator can you combine this with the thread in the old generation forum? same guy, same car, same problem. to the poster - be sure to read the thread in the old gen forum. i have the simple stuff to check there, but it is most likely a faulty oil pump seal inside the transmission. i'd look into any options you may have for Subaru to fix this.

more details on why the belts were replaced and what was wrong with it when you got it would help. i'd guess the timing belt has issues. either the cams or crank aren't lined correctly or the tensioner in the timing belt is bad, making the belt artificially off all the time or under load. on the older subaru motors you can look down the spark plug holes and see some of the valves and the piston head. might have a flashlight handy and take a peak down the holes. maybe you can tell if the valves are bent, pistons have marks in the heads or any coolant in the combustion chamber (head gasket leak).

if Duty solenoid C is registering the wrong voltage then i'm guessing it's hosed? unlikely, but worth a shot . check to see if the FWD fuse holder is corroded or otherwise shorted. checking continuity between each side in the fuse holder should tell.

after checking the simple stuff i mentioned i would say the oil pump seals are faulty. from the previous poster i'd persue this as far as you can right now, automatic transmissions are nothing to mess with. if there's even a chance of subaru dealing with it, then by all means persue that.

2000 Outback would be in the "New Generation Forum" but you'll get lots of help here too since it's a basic automatic question. sounds like line pressure issues starting. does the POWER/ATF/Trans light blink when you start the car? check the ATF level. change the transmission fluid. look at the bottom of the transmission and make sure the pan isn't dented. make sure the ATF lines and cooler (in the side of the radiator) aren't clogged. if they appear fine you may want to install a new radiator or an aftermarket ATF cooler and bypass the questionable radiator side tank. (the aftermarket coolers are only $30 and much cheaper than a radiator. this can be the onset of more serious problems or no big deal, best to check thoroughly now. if everything checks out i'd keep driving and see if it gets worse or stays the same. i've seen subaru's do this for 50,000 miles (off the top of my head) and never get worse or cause problems. now if it's something serious it'll get worse fairly quickly with increasing delays and shifting issues.

yes humidity can cause that, they rust easily.

is it an AWD transmission? if is and they didn't tow it on a flat bed the trans will likely last about 0- 3,000 miles before showing signs of internal failure.

check to see if duty solenoid C has 12 volts. if it goes away with the FWD fuse in then that should rule out any Duty Solenoid C issues (at least connectivity issues). check diffs (and check again, this has been seen before)

you do not want to do this swap. the auto trans will also need the wiring harness swapped over too, big PITA going from manual to auto. i'm not a brat expert so i hope i'm wrong, but on all the newer soobs starting with the EA82 80's vehicles would be a nasty job. but of course it *can* be done. in your list of needs you also need to add the pedal assembly (annoying to swap). you shouldn't have any problems finding a decently priced transmnission for your brat and leaving it manual. with the age and miles on these things i'd want to stick with a manual anyway. i'd think a 20 year old automatic would be much more likely to have problems later on. the ATF coolant lines flow through the radiator side tanks, that's the difference you saw. you would either need the radiator for an automatic or install an aftermarket stand alone ATF cooler ($30). you'll also need the rear driveshaft since the auto and manual trans are different lengths. if the rear diff is a different ratio (it usually is from auto to manual), you'd need to swap the rear diff with it as well. thats really easy to do though. didn't brats change between 82 and 87?

famous last words:

this vehicle doesn't have hubcaps does it? i don't think it does, but if it does i'd try reseating them all. any inclination where it's coming form? front, rear, center, left, right? is it just wind noise, do you have a roof rack?

i just read it again and laughed again...WOO HOO!!! i don't know why that is so funny, it just is.

HA HA HAAAAA AHAAHAHAAAH!!!!i hate that you went through that mess, but DANG that was funny!! love the reply, thanks for being honest that's what i'm talking about! thanks for adding humor to a beautiful day!

i would check the crank pulley first and go from there. describe this missing piece of metal. or take a picture. is it the crank key? i doubt it's the timing belt. i wouldn't expect it to run that good if it were off a tooth. and sounds like the plug and wire install went well. there weren't any glitches that you know of during the timing belt or plug/wire install? if a timing belt tensioner had issues that may cause something, but i'm not sure about that.

do not pull the engine, that is crazy talk. timing belt and seals is an easy job. i don't even pull the radiator to do those. although pulling it does help mostly with the crank seal. don't replace just the oil pump gasket. reseal the entire oil pump. it needs the oil seal (under the sprocket), the pump to block "mickey mouse" gasket and an oring. do not replace one and not the others. to get the sprocket off the oil pump use a large...i think a 1 inch socket....on the oil pump rotor to hold it still. then crank the 12 or 14 mm nut off the face of the oil pump pulley. someone on the XT6 boards only replaced the mickeymouse gasket and when he got it back together it leaked terribly out the oil pump seal that he didn't replace. he sold it cheap to me on ebay and i sold it for much more after replacing the $3 seal he neglected. this can be done in a few hours. i gotta go...but i'll tyr to check back......

first - call the mechanic and tell him to hold on to the old transmission, don't let him throw it away. my guesses in order of probability: Diffs are different ratio (don't trust yards or mechanics) Duty Solenoid C isn't getting power (not connected or wire cut during install - only way it could be mechanics fault, not likely) Used trans has torque bind details on above items: you need to verify the rear and front diffs are for sure, absolutely the same ratio. don't worry about what you were told or what the junk yard said, physically check to make sure the final drive ratio is identical on the front and rear. with the entire car off the ground you should be able to turn the front wheels 10, 20, or 40 times or so and count how many revolutions the rears make. if the front turns 37 and the rear turns 40, you know they don't match. next you need to make sure Duty Solenoid C has power to it, if it's not plugged in or doesn't have power you will get the situation you are experiencing now. could be a dirty connection, bent pin, cut wire, or just not connected at all. if this checks out, it's likely the trans had torque bind previously. try a fluid change before assuming the trans is bad. if you think it's torque bind you can replace the rear extension housing, you don't need an entirely new transmission. if you have your old transmission you can likely swap the rear extension housing with it. you said you didn't have torque bind before, so your transfer clutches in your old trans should be fine. swap those, this can be done without removing the transmission. that's a bonus. if you don't have your old transmission, then maybe the yard will give you a rear extension housing to swap? or you'll have to yank and exchange the entire transmission.

OB99W, good job! i forgot to mention that. i agree with his sentiments exactly. get that crank pulley checked out or replaced immediately. you can post a picture of it here if you'd like us to look at it. sounds like it's beginning to separate. you can draw a line across the entire diameter of hte pulley, then check it after running the car. the line will appear to have been "broken" if the pulley is beginning to separate (which it sounds like it has). if this is the case, replace it immediately.

woo hoo! thumbs up for easy fixes! two thumbs up for not taking it to the dealer and them charging you $400 for a new radiator!!

woo hoo! thumbs up for easy fixes!

exactly what nipper said. if you didn't use Subaru OEM wires, then that is most likely your problem.

you really need to find out if it's really a "rod" noise. if it is you probably don't want the car unless you like replacing engines. if it's not, then you're probably fine. piston rods to most people means the engine is toast. rods connect the piston to the crankshaft, that requires a complete tear down of the motor and big bucks. now it could be a misdiagnosis and it's really something much simpler. if it is the rods or bearings in the engine it's not going to last long at all and will require engine tear down and/or replacement. great motor and transmission in that car. when was the timing belt and water pump last replaced? the belts have a replacement interval of 60,000 miles, so there's no telling how old the one in there is. if the owner knows, then that's a plus. if i were getting and didn't know the history i'd change all the fluid, replace the timing belt, water pump, any noise timing bearings, oil pumps seals, and cam seals (all of that is done at the same time, since it's in the same area). the motor in that car is very reliable. the problem is it usually outlives it's water pump and or radiator. if those get old and leak or fail then the motor overheats and if the owner doesn't repair right away or properly then that can damage the motor. so...if it's in good shape and you keep it from overheating and running out of oil, you have a good shot of seeing 250,000 miles.