idosubaru

i tried looking up and didn't find much. i agree they are probably different and likewise i have nothing to back that up except to say every time i compare impreza and legacy trans they are different final drives. with information on this being so scarce and variable i'd personally want to count to verify no matter what. if you jack the rear of the vehicle up, simply turning the tire and counting the driveshaft will give you the gear ratio. compare the legacy and impreza. of course you can always swap the rear diff as i'm sure you are aware.

good point. thicker oil 20w50 will leak far less than thinner stuff sometimes as well too. if the engine is running well this might be an excellent choice for another 100,000 miles. or at least worth tolerating until warmer weather comes!

you want a clutch kit or just the clutch disc? http://www.thepartsbin.com: clutch disc is $38.62 clutch kit for $101 (free shipping on orders over $50). their trans mounts are $60 though! i highly recommend the entire kit - pilot bearing, throw out bearing, disc, pressure plate....etc.

he still hasn't mentioned if this is really "overfill" or just an empty, new oil filter.

time to ask yourself what you want for this car. the block should go another 100,000 miles at least so you really only need a head gasket job, not a full rebuild. i wouldn't consider a full rebuild unless you plan on having this car for another 300,000 miles and feel like replacing everything else as well. a full on rebuild is kind of silly if the car has 225,000 on the wheel bearings, driveshaft, starter, alternator, radiator, hoses, calipers...etc. a 100% reliable engine does you no good if everything else is 15+ years old with 225,000 miles.

someone inform us what the fix was. i swapped a non-turbo EA82 into my 87.5 XT Turbo and the fuel pump wouldn't run as well. tell phil to please inform! i'll be attacking this car again shortly and would like to know what they ended up doing.

+1 for carbs suck. can i put my FI EA82 in my lawn mower?

those fans need to be turning on. if the temp is going up...if the gauge is to be believed (which it probably is)...then the fan should be coming on. not sure where your sensor is for the fans though. i think that's the one in the radiator though right? test that one.

highly doubt the rear diff like nipper said. i'd have the tires inspected/rebalanced. tires can be noisey. rotate them and see if the noise changes or "moves". if it moves with the tires, then they are the cause. make sure there's no mud caked behind the wheels, or a part of the wheel liner hanging down from the wheel well. after this i'd check your brakes pads or shoes (if it has rear drums). easy check and inexpensive to deal with (depending how bad your mechanic needs $$ anyway). does it seem drivetrain related or could it be trim/antenna catching the wind?

i would change the ignition stuff first. plugs, wires, cap, rotor. then pour a bottle of that "you will pass emissions" stuff in your tank.

it's not out of gas is it? how do you know the filter was clogged if the fuel pump doesn't work? just inside the passengers side rear wheel underneath the vehicle sets your fuel pump. give it 12 volts to see if it runs. more details are good. the car was running yesterday just fine? then quit today? or it hasn't run in 3 years? i know a 1991 loyale is EA82, is it FI? i don't think they're carbbed, but gives us as much information as you can. "car no fuel" is hard for even the most trained mechanic to diagnose!

no kidding, autozone doesn't carry NGK? how weird, i never go there. most parts stores have them, that should be closer to accurate.

12 point socket for the "star thingies" and i think you're set assuming you have all the normal mechanics tools. air tools are super nice to have when doing head gaskets. helps in removing bolts, cleaning threads, cleaning bolts. you'll need a valve spring compressor unless a shop is doing them or you feel like getting creative with what you have.

you said "crank but does not turn over". that's a little confusing. by not turning over, that usually means it doesn't turn over..it doesn't crank, it doesn't try to start. if it's not turning over that sounds battery or connection related. check your battery cables, where they bolt to the battery and make sure you can't turn the battery leads by hand. might be time for some new end links. sounds like you might mean it is turning over, trying to crank but it won't start. will it start if you give it some gas? since i hate carbs and know little about them (what came first, the chicken or the egg?)...i'll leave this up to the others. but sounds to me like a good thorough cleaning of the carb may help. have you ever cleaned it?

start with doing the basic tune up first - replace your spark plugs and spark plug wires. use SUBARU only spark plug wires and NGK spark plugs (any auto parts store will have them). this is a relatively easy job. if you find it annoying, you shouldnt' do any more. if you don't mind it, look into the next thing. i think this will cost less than $50, will alleviate at least one code you're dealing with and help the car run much better. take your time and install the spark plug wires carefully, if you're mechanic friend helps make sure he's aware of how sensitive these EJ motors are to using proper (Subaru only wires) spark plug wires and making sure they are seated and installed properly. no other engine i've ever worked on is as unforgiving as these, so he likely won't believe you! "yeah, right, sure subaru real finnicky, whatever your dump board-member friends say, i've worked on plenty of cars"...is probably what he'll be thinking. even the older subaru engines (EA and ER series) are nothing like the newer EJ series in this regards. i am not making this up.

seems high to me and i wouldn't want a carbed vehicle. look around, the travel time to save $1,000 might be worth it. can you install all new timing belts, water pump and such yourself? i'd stay in contact with them, i'd be surprised if they get close to $2,000 for it. i'd think if you stay in contact they'll come down to $1,500 come holiday season. these things are easy to pick up around my area as well. there's a few in the $500 - $1,000 range now but they don't have the new parts this one has. if you need the car and they are hard to find around you, then get it. it's a good car (except the carb, i hate carb's!), but otherwise should last you a long time and be a great decision over the long run.

guess work really, but if the motor wasn't abused and ran for a long time like this then new head gaskets should be golden. i know a number of subarus on the road that i've put new head gaskets in and they are still running fine years later just as many others have on the group here. should be good to go. i'd rather have new headgaskets than a used motor with questionable history any day. get the perma-torque fel-pro gaskets and should be golden.

after doing an oil change the oil may read high due to the fact that the oil filter isn't completely saturated and full yet. so don't assume it's full just because it reads high on the stick. it should be the oil filters capacity past the full mark. if you had it at "exactly" the full mark, it will read low once the system is primed and the oil filter and passages are once again saturated.

make sure it's not the drive belt/serpentine belt. with a newly installed t-belt maybe the sepentine belt just needs retightened, they often stretch after a removal and/or install. it has to be removed to do the timing belt. i'd like to know which pulley is making the noise. if it wasn't making the noise before, then you're mechanic probably wouldn't have noticed it. i've seen a few subaru's with seized pulleys. they make noise first...then eventually seize so the belt slides over them (so long as it's not the sprocketed timing belt pulley). i had a seized pulley and drove 1,500 miles between MD and GA before getting it fixed. the belt was sliding over the seized pulley. i don't recommend it, but that was my experience. it was do that or pay hundreds of dollars to the dealer for a new one. i took my chances and won (that time!) sometimes a simple dowel rod placed on each pulley and held to your ear can narrow down which one it is.

this gets asked all the time, use the search button and read yourself asleep.... he's not saying using those oils will immediately incinerate every car they are used in. there's lots of debate and little quantitative useful information to the average car owner. yes there are differences, but the bottom line seems to be that the net results of those differences don't amount to anything substantial/functional in the real world (my oppinion). in other words...you're much more likely to have water pump, alternator, suspension, driveshaft, transmission or some other problem before the fact that you used "X" oil ruins your engine or keeps you from making it to 200,000 or 300,000 miles. change your blah blah blah synthetic oil on time and subaru's make 200,000 miles no problem, period.

clarify which motor, by star thingies i assume it's the EJ motor in your legacy, but not everyone may pick that up.

no, he's either wrong or confused. i assume this is an EA82...i think there were some EJ's in 91... EA82's blow headgaskets when they are run hot or if they're a turbo (which can mean, they run hot). keep the cooling system in check and the head gaskets will hold just fine. water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, clamps, radiator caps. any one of these gives out and the car will run hot and that's not a good thing on 15+ year old gaskets.

if that's the range of all 4 cylinders, that is excellent.

looks like all the motors i've taken apart as well. i have one block that has crytstal clean heads but i haven't removed the pan yet. it had 200,000 miles but was the cleanest heads i've ever seen. wondering what inside the pan looks like.

easiest way would be to keep the intake manifold and just swap blocks. then you'd also need a non-turbo exhaust manifold and all the non-turbo intake hoses to attach to the throttle body and MAF sensor. i know the wiring had some changes from 86-87 so if you wanted to swap the entire engine including the intake manifold that might have some issues. but you could probably just install your existing 86 wiring harness onto what ever engine you get....assuming all things equal of course MPFI for instance. i had some issues with my 87.5 XT turbo to non-turbo engine swap but it was mostly due to the fact that the 87.5 XT is a rare engine among other things...