idosubaru

in maryland the airbag light can be on and the system non-functioning in order to pass safety inspection. but i think PA is much more annoying. one state has that stupid rule "anything that came on the car must be functioning"...that would seriously PMO.

i don't think that's the case either. i made that same remark within the past year on another thread and someone pointed out that is incorrect. they went through the math and the actual overall gear ratio changes that occur between changing final drives from 3.7 to 3.9 (that's the differences in the old transmissions 4EAT is 3.7, manuals are 3.9...and the 4EAT's run way lower RPM's at same speed). anyway....someone calculated the difference the final drive made and it was very tiny. i think it does have something to do with the trans.

do a search on here or the internet for 2.5 headgasket and you'll find what is probably his problem, though i'm just guessing. that or he's upgrading to a turbo engine.

there's a search function which will address questions like this. your service manual is a good source as well. i believe your transmission has a screw on external filter, replace that. don't bother replacing the internal "filter", it's just a screen and doesn't do much of anything. you didn't mention how many miles? replace the diff oils with synthetic gear oil. big deal in what way? it's very simple to do, remove drain plug, drain and refill.

you could inspect the valves, probably not a bad idea at 100k. the automatic transmissions have a screen, not really a filter in the pan. do not mess with it. it's not worth the trouble. i've pulled out pans with far more miles than you have and the *filters* (screens) never have anything in them. anything they "stop" should drain out with a fluid change. the 98 and up 4EAT transmissions should have a screw on external filter. replace that, it's very similar to an engine oil filter, screw off, srew on the old one and it's an actual filter, not a screen.

2.2's were available in some models (i think LSi wagon or something) until 1999 at least.

excellent price for an all metal radiator. wow.

HA HA!!!!! nice one! took me a minute to figure out what it was a picture of. still not sure exactly, except that it's a wheel well..or part of one. i'd probably can that unless the body was fine, cut out all that rust, it's just a wheel well and who needs those!

i'd' certainly look into the alt/voltage regulator right away. as well as battery and cables. swap alt and regulator with new or have them tested. all the stores now are doing free electrical system testing if you can get it there.

another option is to keep that $100 and don't touch the engine. keep your eyes out for a lower mile 2.2 and put that money towards it. in the next year i doubt you'd have a problem finding a 100,000 mile 2.2 for $100-$250. but of course who wants to pull the engine again!

how long are you keeping it? if not long, then why bother? otherwise i'd replace it. if the rear main seal is perfectly clean you may want to leave it. normally i'd say replace it since you'd have to pull the motor out again and heck...260,000 miles is steep for a seal. but i've seen alot of replaced seals leak, so if you replace it make sure it's in there perfectly. for some reason the original rear main seals rarely leak (i've never seen one myself)...but, i've seen a few threads on here and XT6.net that had rear mains start leaking soon after replacing them. not sure why they're problematic like that.

i say listen to rweddy..... whatever you buy make sure it barely puts a dent in your disposable income. pay cash, don't make payments. you'll thank yourself in the future. cars are fun, they're great i like playing with mine...but they aren't worth what most americans are paying for them either. i'd get a 2.2 (i did a year and a half ago for my wife when we got married), those things are rock solid. if you want something to last a really long time and have cash, but something with a blown motor and have a CCR 2.2 installed. brand new 2.2 and you're set. hey we're all different, so whatever you want. spend some time looking you can get great deal on whatever you want...high dollar new turbo or older 2.2...either way keep driving your current ride and look for a great deal. if you wait until you have car troubles then you're pushed into buying whatever you can find at higher prices.

RAM does some awesome work and would have tested various intake designs. i am sure they chose the path they did for a reason. they have custom pistons. last i stopped by and talked to them they said they would rebuild EA82's and even the XT6 ER27 with your choice of cast or forged high compression (higher than stock) pistons or cast or forged low compression turbo pistons. and i believe they can machine the piston head to be non-interference if i'm not mistaken. Mr. Radon over at http://www.xt6.net rebuilt his XT6 ER27 engine with these pistons, check out his thread for pictures, details, weights of the pistons, etc.

an option....steering racks are a dime a dozen as well, might want to play with a used one and install new tie rods and then install it to the car (easier to work on and less down time). or just install a new steering rack, they're easy and cheap.

i would keep a tight eye on your coolant and oil levels. which ever one is gradually loosing fluid is where you want to start looking. get an air freshener or some allergies and you won't notice anymore!

how many miles are on this thing? it's too bad you didn't convince them to address the piston slap earlier, they would have had to install new head gaskets for that job. now you're hosed unless you're ready to put in some time calling and talking to managers....etc.

sounds good. yes, ohio. and hopefully the driveshaft comes off okay. thanks.

huck just completed an EG33 swap into an XT6 - check it out over at http://www.xt6.net if you're interested. let me know if you sign up and i'll make sure you're account is verified quickly. (we have a sign up system to prevent spam). there are also a couple turbo wrx engines swaps in the XT platform over there as well. huck did all the work himself on his EG33 so he has alot to offer in terms of advice. i helped him with 0.000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000004% of the work, i sent him a wiring connector.

anyone ever disconnect a rear EJ driveshaft? done it once or twice but don't really remember much other than that cover plate. i've done tons of EA/ER series cars and they can be annoying, nuts seized/rusted don't want to come off. are the EJ's similarly annoying?

you're dead on, the torque converter can easily bump out a little when pulling the engine. i've seen a number of people not get it right and shatter their oil pump, but those are people that didn't know about it so you'll be all over it.

thanks bruce, i'm golden on the tires. both sets of rims have new tires on them. i'm getting a matching set of snow tires to put on one set though for winter driving.

yep, lots of stuff tends to drip, flow, blow back to the same area. let us know what you find. helps to clean everything really good and check periodically after that before it gets so messy that it's hard to tell where it's coming from .

2005 Forester XT Turbo. you have an 06 what are you looking for wheels for hotdog! my WRX wheels have 205 55 16 tires on them. so the 225 is "two sizes" too big so to speak. wasn't sure they would fit. would rather have skinnier tires for snows but i'll live with them for my first set of snows.

i have 16" impreza WRX rims and 16" Forester XT Turbo rims. got a good leak on snow tires, will 225/60/16's fit? which brings up the real question...how do you know what tires can fit on the rims? what are the limits?

good point GD, i've never used the anaerobic on the pan gasket but was thinking i would if i ever did one of mine again. i was thinking about a chunk of RV getting into the oil pan, but really the sump screen and oil filter are there so it wouldn't matter and i'd surely be careful in quantity so none would get in there in the first place. guess i'll stick to RTV in the future.