idosubaru

slap on new belts, fill the oil up and you're golden. be advised there are two belts, not just one. check all the timing belt pulleys, if they are seized they need replaced. at this age it's best to regrease or replace them all. i've seen very few that are still in good condition (actually none even close to what a stock well greased pulley should be). there's no possibility of damage to this engine (EA82). all engines your year and before are non-interference variety. as for the low oil....fill it back up. as long as there was something in there the engine shouldn't be damaged. if it's *really* low like you're adding 3 or 4 quarts, then you should go ahead and change it. what was in there is likely used and abused. now...like he said..if the engine seized and broke a belt due to bad oil then your engine is hosed...so depends what you mean but "low oil".

search for timing belt change information, removing the cam sprockets (to replace cam seals), lining up the cams. that's fairly simple, but instructions help and that's the most complicated part. with the timing belts off, the water pump, oil pump and cam seals are almost staring you in the face. just unbolt the ones you want to replace.

10mm should be it. some PB blaster or Liquid Wrench may help if it's that stuck. (WD40 aint the same). some carefully applied heat (to the nut) would probably back it right off very easily if you have a torch and can keep it from blasting your reservoir plastic.

no, i meant a 2.2 complete engine swap. they can be had for cheap if you look...$200 or so isn't that hard. the entire engine will bolt up, plug up and can be cheaper than a headgasket job depending on many factors. TONS of information here about doing it as well as success stories to go with it. you can probably sell your 2.5 for as much as you pay for a used 2.2...so the parts costs could be very minimal.

no, i meant a 2.2 complete engine swap. they can be had for cheap if you look...$200 or so isn't that hard. the entire engine will bolt up, plug up and can be cheaper than a headgasket job depending on many factors. TONS of information here about doing it as well as success stories to go with it.

a 3/4" socket set works wonders and is well worth the $ if you plan on working on cars indefinitely. they break them loose instantly every time. i've broken three 1/2" breaker bars and sockets. if you don't want to spring for that, then try all the above methods, using a hammer on the end of your socket works too - wail it hard, it's the poor mans impact wrench. a jack under the socket, lifting up (with legs)...there's lots of ways to do it.

might want to ask them what the exact name is of the part their pricing you and see if those match up? maybe one price is price per clutch but there are actually multiple clutches involved so the other price is for a set of the same clutch? i haven't had to do one of these myself yet so i'm not familiar with how many clutches are needed, but there is more than one disc in there.

i see you already looked over it, but make sure it's the headgaskets. subaru gaskets are the way to go. use the new design and the issue is not recurring if done properly. might want new heads or at the very least have these tested and resurfaced. some people try to get by without having the heads milled, they may have done that expecting the problem wouldn't come back any time soon (and they were right!). assuming the heads and block are good the new subaru gasket design will solve your issues. a 2.2 swap could be easier and cheaper with fewer worries about the block and heads being bad. the conditioner subaru uses is an alternative for the external leaking later head gasket issues, probably not applicable to your vehicle and probably not warranted now if your issues are already headgasket related.

interesting, the only EA81 i've worked on this summer had torn boots and was much louder than i would have expected and his car only has 80,000 miles on it. why would EA81's deteriorate quicker? closer to the ground, smaller? the original posters 87 wagon would be an EA82?

nice! not surprised at all! forgot to mention, i haven't seen them fail too often (actually never personally) so i'd make sure yours is bad and also wouldn't think twice about installing a used one.

i've seen saran wrap too! failure due to a torn boot is so unlikely i don't think it's worth the effort. but that's from the guy that puts 50,000 miles on them after they start clicking!

do you have the wiring diagram? be nice to check the continuity and resistance between the engine harness connector (big one) and injector harness. this will tell you if the harness itself has issues. if you have a multimeter this will only take a minute once you figure out which pins of the connector are for those FI's.

it's a solenoid, purge control solenoid i believe or transmission related. doubtful you'll find this at the parts store. someone on here will probably send you one for $5 or buy one for $50 at the dealer (i made that price up).

axle work isn't all that bad. a stout socket or impact wrenches help with the axle nut if you're taking it off, it can be a real beast and often breaks 1/2" socket wrenches and breaker bars (at least in MD they do!). if time, tools, weather, and $ are an issue then just leave it. i've put 50,000 miles on front clicking, busted boots before. if you're into offroading or have a lift on your soob then you'll want to replace it sooner.

there's no CEL? if one pair of injectors is over 1 volt and the other is under 1 volt couldn't the issue be there or before the dropping resistor? continuity and resistance check from the engine harness connector to each resistor might show a wiring issue in the harness. don't let my responses get in the way of following John's lead, consider mine secondary, he's way good with this stuff.

unhelpful? i'm sorry you took offense to my reply? i'm confused, i was addressing the most probable causes of TOD. if i didn't mention the issues that cause 90% of HLA noise (or more), then i wouldn't be helpful in my oppinion. maybe cars in my area have different issues than yours, i don't know, but that's the case on the dozens i've worked on down here. if i don't mention what i've seen on the dozens of soobs i've worked on and owned then i'd really be giving you BS. i would feel bad if i started suggesting things i've never actually seen before...like poor clearances in your main bearings, warn cams or clogged oil galleries which are highly unlikely....all possible, but i've yet to see it. the only case in my decade long, 15+ XT6 ownership experience i've ever seen of a stubborn tick that wasn't related to oil pump or gummed up and sticky HLA's was due to a chunk of RTV getting wedged in an oil gallery to the cam after someone put the engine back together. that none of these were your issue is very rare and something that probably noone on this board could have guessed over the internet without actually touching, seeing, driving, feeling and testing this vehicle in person. anecdotal describes my experience in thinking two things are related when really they aren't. been there done that plenty of times and was trying to help you not go down that same road. that it did not help you, doesn't mean i was trying to lead you astray, am a bad person and am unhelpful. and for those mentioning confusing posts or what not, just ask what you're confused about. keyboards aren't everyones favorite form of communication...i still have no idea what FTW, RMOLG or whatever it is, mean. a follow up question can clarify easily enough.

a noid light will see the injector firing signals which are probably too quick for a multimeter to pick up. there's spark at each cylinder? can you swap another ECU? a noid light might be nice, check signals at injectors (which you already know don't work), at the dropping resistor and finally back to the ECU. somewhere in there you'll narrow it down.

MORNING LAUGH!!! coffee and usmb funiness woo hoo! RAM has aftermarket/custom EA82 headgaskets of some sort. might be something WJM and those turbo guys could use to keep their heads sealed.

as a matter of fact don't go anywhere before scrolling all the way to the bottom left of this webpage. this forum automatically shows a few threads that may be very similar to yours. it shows at least too that are very beneficial. these would come up in a search as well. all that i would tell you is in one of those threads, right here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65355 your noisy HLA is solved within that thread.

hey, that's copyright infringement stealing my lines like that! what he said (monkey balls and all)....do a search for oil pump, ticking, TOD (won't come up in the search though, doesn't like 3 letter stuff). all that head and cam work isn't probably what you need. i think your results so far are anecdotal.

make sure the connections and electrical harness for each is fine, the code doesn't mean the sensor is bad. it's getting a bad reading from that circuit, usually it's the sensor, but not always. in these two cases it probably is more likely than other sensors. might want to plug in "purge solenoid" in the search feature and see what you find. unfortunately you can't search for "EGR" do to limitations of the search function - it doesn't like 3 letter acronyms.

awesome car, high price tag. that motor with a manual trans is set up for reaching some very high numbers on the odometer. price is up there though, they can easily be had for thousands less. if you have time don't settle, if you need a car right now then your effective price range has to be higher.

probably a head gasket but i'll admit i am jumping to conclusions. best to start ruling out the obvious - fans coming on, thermostat, radiator, radiator cap, etc. any belt noise, slipping, low voltage stuff going (loose belt)?

CCR builds stock engines. and yes it will perfectly fit your vehicle.

have you posted in the "parts wanted forum"? someone on here may have a trans for you.