idosubaru

some water condensation may be expected in certain situations, i wouldn't call it gasket related just yet. but like GD said it is typically an intake or headgasket sign. i'd clean it all up and see how long before it comes back. it should be obvious with your coolant level. if you're topping your coolant off then it's going somewhere. you can go years without ever adding coolant, if you don't have a leak.

why do you say "it wasn't the rear output seal"? did you look at it, replace it, was it leaking at all from there? was it leaking in front of that? really need a picture or to know where it's coming from. can you absolutely, for sure, rule out the rear extension housing from leaking - where the driveshaft slides in?

i'd look into the EG33. in stock form it won't accept much boost, but if you're talking about a full rebuild of the engine you could install low compression pistons. if you're looking for numbers that high it won't be a bad idea to start with a new motors, bearings and such. the EG33 has some aftermarket support, i'm sure there are numbers and figures out there for what an EG33 with a turbo will produce. stock will have to be low boost.

it is also possible to pull the engine and tranmission out as an assembly, still bolted together and seperate them out of the car.

need to verify it's definitely oil leaking. are you loosing oil? is your trans fluid okay? (if it was an automatic the torque converter seal would be in the same area). valve covers, head gaskets, rear cam seal, oil pan....are you sure it's not one of those? as a side note the only rear main seals i've seen leak are the ones that have been replaced. the rear mains on subaru's very rarely leak, i can't think of any factory installed ones that i've seen leak, it's always been ones that were replaced. so my question is, when the motor was out did you replace the rear main seal?

yep, rear output shafts leak frequently with trans work. pulling the driveshaft out can ruin the seal or just sitting and getting old. it's a good idea to check the driveshaft that slides into the trans. if it's rusted at all from sitting outside during the work, the roughness of the rust can eat away any new seal and leak.

i would make darn sure it's the oil pan first. many other leaks can show up at the oil pan and get it all wet. first step is verifying this more than just looking at the wet pan. the surface rust on the outside shouldn't be a big deal, a visual inspection will tell. the inside and mating surfaces are almost garaunteed to be fine. the tricky part about the oil pan is that each bolt hole is typically concave when you remove it. so the bolt holes want to dig into and crush the oil pan gasket. this doesn't make for a nice and even torque and sealing pressure for the oil pan gasket. so they may want to leak again soon after installing. don't overtigthen the oil pan bolts ever, this can cause them to deform. the flatter the mating surface is (bolt holes not concave *up* too bad) the better. if it's questionable or the motor requires unbolting and lifting at all i'd personally use anaeroic sealant on the oil pan side of the gasket when reinstalling. the ER27 requires unbolting the motor mounts, loosening the trans mount and lifting the motor up to get the oil pan off, i'd want to make sure i'm not doing all that again, so i'd use anaerobic sealant on mine for that reason.

"MINT" HA HAH !!!! nice job. i've used that same blown insulation before! woo hoo! gets a little annoying if you have to use a ladder.....up and down to refill and you can't put too much in the hopper or it clogs...or at least mine did. just in time for winter.

you probably know this, but since you mentioned the auto/manual difference, be sure you're familiar with seating the auto transmission the last 1/4". it's easy to miss that and crush your transmission oil pump (very very bad). takes a little lifting/turning/reseating for it to finally engage.

those numbers look decent (not scarry at least), the variances may not be related to problems. i always do more than one test, make sure i'm getting consistent numbers. i thought stock they were only supposed to go up to 160? i think newer subaru's are in the 170/180 range but this is just from memory. i'm almost positive the only time i got 170/180 range compression on the EA82/ER27 (same pistons) is with motors leaking coolant in the cylinders from a blown headgasket. the coolant in the cylinders can bump the readings up somehow. was the throttle plate propped open?

actually they often don't leak externally. it's not that it blocks the oil port. it's that the suction is going to pull air in through that gap created where the gasket is compromised. that mixes air with your oil which your HLA's will not thank you for (hello TOD!). air is compressible and oil is not...hydraulic valve lash adjusters don't like compressible stuff in them. i've probably seen at least a half a dozen gaskets pictured exactly as you have shown, and posted pictures of them before as well, one port sucked in. this is the primary/standard cause of ticking. as for the "B" stamp on your rotor. i'm fairly confident that's what you'll find. i think that's the standard OEM factory install, any others are for replacement/clearance issues and i think are seldom used. pretty sure all the XT6's i've ever done are all stamped "B" as well.

the front and rear diffs are completely different, not compatible at all.

the oil leak will be one of two places - it's either the front crank seal or the oil pump shaft seal if it's leaking that badly. but basically if you do this job they both require the same amount of work so you're going to replace them both at the same time since they are so close together. both require removing the timing belts. it's not that bad of a job really, it can be done in a couple hours. removing and installing the crank seal is the most annoying one to do. if that one is not leaking or seeping at all, you may consider leaving it, although i recommend replacing it since it's right there anyway. and...if it's leaking that bad and has been driven at all there may be so much oil slopped around that you can't even identify whether it's the oil pump or crank seal since the crank seal is right above the oil pump. it should be obvious, the oil pump seal will have oil all over the face...but possible it's too messy to tell. for the coolant you can buy the water pump outlet o-ring at Subaru or i think http://www.thepartsbin.com has them. better yet buy a new water pump and it will come with a brand new one. sometimes it's a good idea to coat the water pump o-ring in sure-tack sealant or your favorite RTV sealant stuff. make sure the metal pipe is clean where the o-ring goes so it seals good. all of this work is on the front of the engine, i'd recommend replacing it all at the same time since it all require removing the timing belts. new water pump, oil pump shaft seal, oil pump gasket, crank seal and cam seals. this is a great motor that will give you 200,000 miles no problem if you keep it sealed good and don't overheat it.

usually have the alt or a/c brackets in place at least when reinstalling to add a bolt or loop to in order to facillitate reinstalling it. yes the a/c lines you can just lay over the drivers side and do the work without purging the a/c charge. yes you can just unbolt the intake manifold and try to prop or hold it up and out of the way with the fuel lines, heater core hoses, throttle cables, all still attached. so you can just pull the long block out, and reinstall your new long block. one tricky part and that's if you have an automatic transmission. the torque converters on these are very tricky to seat the final 1/4". make absolutely certain it is fully seated that last 1/4". it's kind of hard to tell, the FSM usually gives you some measurements. once you slide it in it will take some gradual turning and small strokes of lifting a tiny bit/turning and sliding back down before it finally engagese properly. on a new car (one i haven't done before), i'd recommend "doing it twice" if you're not sure. seat it, watch how it drops that 1/4" then do it one more time for good measure. if you try to bolt the engine up without doing that it will crush your internal transmission oil pump and that's bad.

on your webpage you mention the shaftseal as the typical problem area. they very rarely fail, i've never seen one leak. the problem is the kinked port of the mickeymouse gasket. that kink is the issue on all EA82 (and ER27 and EA82T) oil pumps. if that pump wasn't "ticking", then it was only a matter of time before it would start.

use Subaru timing belts and one of the online discount Subaru parts suppliers. i'd look for a used fender as well. new ones usually need primed, painted and won't have any decals to match (if there are any).

for a lesser price tag i would have been interested since i don't have my tools in WV yet. nice job on the 2.2 swap, i have extra EJ22's as well, so i'm also considering that. glad it worked out for you.

the SVX engine will bolt up to any EJ transmission just fine so it should fit just fine but whether the gears mesh and align right is another question. if you get it, you can probably give it a visual and be good to go. EJ22 starters are a dime a dozen though, so i wouldn't waste the time checking myself.

there are members running lift kits and i don't know what size tires, but they are huge on some of their rigs. upgrading a truck tire from 28 to 30 is no big deal, going from a dinky stock sized subaru wheel to a very large off road truck tire is a much larger jump. but i don't think the original poster is interested in these kinds of mods, he can clarify if i'm wrong.

after 3 used ones i was tired of swapping and wondering when that one would start the vibration dance all over again.

awesome. what else can you do with these other than read codes? does it datalog real-time? is that hard to decipher? does it come with directions, helpful info on using or are the end users expected to be trained/qualified with them?

i had mine rebuilt for $190 for 3 new, replaceable and greasable Rockford ujoints. about $90 for the 3 ujoints (i ordered them and gave them to the shop) and $100 labor to install them. john, i'd bet as good as you are that you could install them. i cut mine out and stopped there. i'd like to try a set myself one day though. of course it'd be cheaper to just install one instead of all three. have no idea on the swap - i searched and found nothing.

"differential" is derived from "difference" seems logical. http://www.howstuffworks.com is sweet, might want to plug around on there about AWD systems and more specifically to this, differentials.

noone can answer your question until you provide more info. are you getting taller tires for snow tires that are a tiny bit bigger or are you offroading with 35" super swampers? big difference and totally different answers. speedometers are easily a few percent off anyway, so a small deviation in tire height might not matter. there are online tire size calcluators, just type in "tire size calculator" on yahoo and click one. compare tire sizes and see how far off your speedo is off. a wild guess, but i don't think he's looking for a %50+ increase with 305 80 16's.

$1,000-$1,500 is the going rate. they quoted me $1,500 for an EJ25 headgasket change about a month ago. i asked if that included anything else...water pump, timing belt, etc. they said "No", that was all additional. i was having some tires installed and figured i'd stop by to chat, i change my own headgaskets anyway but was curious. that being said...being expensive is one thing...now i don't even trust them because they're nice to one guy (you) and try to hose the next guy (me). i don't mind expensive depending what, who and honesty. i have friends that are mechanics and they don't work like that.