idosubaru

this vehicle doesn't have a sunroof does it? is it a two door or four door? make sure it's not something else leaking. i'd first peak underneath the car before assuming it's a hole and going through all the work. any hole big enough to pool water should be waving at you "hey, how are you today!!!" if you look under the car. be sure to look past the frame rail if that extends back and drops down in your way. might need to jack one side up (with all the precaustion of course...jack stands, etc). i'd just want to make sure it's a hole before pulling stuff out. if it's rust, remove all the rust first. and....weld in new stuff. if it's the door sill that may be replaceable...but we'll tackle that once you confirm where it's coming from. there's a Brian on http://www.xt6.net that has holes in his floor...not really holes so much as much of it was just gone. he had new inserts made for it. i actually thought YOU were him posting here at usmb when i saw the title of your thread and your user name "brian....barber". funny stuff.

that you never had problems before smells of A: them trying to rip you off B: they didn't burp the system and overheated your vehicle after installing the new water pump. whoops..we overheated and his gasket is seeping, well good thing these 2.5's are "known" for head gasket issues, we'll blame it on that. now...i'm making accusations based on your story that it's never overheated or had any signs or issues. if that's the case, i don't trust this story one bit. they're basically telling you that you won the lottery statistically speaking. the chances that it JUST started leaking the day or two before you took it in, just soon enough that it never had a chance to overheat until the 2 miles THEY happen to drive it....yeah right, come on dudes. or, are you sure it never overheated? could you have missed it? do a search on this forum. often people don't get all the air out of the system on these EJ motors after having the cooling system apart (and they had yours all apart for the water pump job). the air bubbles cause issues and the car can overheat...again do a search and you'll see numerous cases of this. seems unlikely they'd overheat it and blow the gasket...but i think that's more likely that the "mystical event" that it was leaking and you didn't notice. there are some examples of post-2000 headgasket issues. i don't know the exact dates.

hey will, i'm almost positive they are different...but wish i were wrong. the auto front diffs are completely different animals than the manuals right? so this wouldn't work for us freaks that prefer automatics?

how's the carb? ignition wires, cap, rotor (if it has them, i don't know the EA81's)? does it use any oil? loosing compression? (compression test).

did you give the motor 12 volts? what vehicle, year, model? any symptoms or previous funnies...or did it just quit working one day? do the buttons light up when you turn it "on"? it doesn't come on with a/c or anything? you can't find what unit in the air duct? the blower motor was replaced?

since it's you nipper i don't think i need to say it...but battery terminals/connectors will give these signs as well if dirty or not tight. welcome home hotdog. 5 main bearings forever, 2.5 headgaskets rock, synthetic oil sucks, what is TB, can i run without an airfilter?....welcome to the FUN>>>WOO HOO!!!

something sounds jacked up. some of the FWD vehicles i believe have smaller gas tanks are you looking up the right vehicle/have the right owners manual? as for the 20 mpg. you *should* see more but...there are lots of variables. what kind of driving do you do? if it's all city/stop and go/short distance, lots of hills/mountains driving then you might be relegated to that no matter what you drive. if you do lots of highway driving and still get that kind of mileage, what condition is the car in? a tune up will help greatly. tire pressure checked, spark plugs and ignition wires, and air filter are most important. fuel filter and O2 sensor might be helpful to address as well.

there are two completely different motors available in 1987...the EA81 and EA82....and there are turbo, non-turbo, SPFI, MPFI variants as well. if you tell us what vehicle it is we can tell which motor it has and someone can post a picture. if you can post a picture we'd be able to help immediately.

$35 for a resistor block, if that's what it takes. are you sure it's broken? if it is, remove it and make sure a simple solder of one end won't fix it. they can get really dirty too. clean it out and make sure a simple solder somewhere won't fix it first. what do you need heat for (ha ha!)

it's all over the forum here - search for "torque bind". under advanced search click on "search titles" and "new generation forum" and you'll get all you care to read about. look down to the lower left of this page right now, no clicky anywhere, just look then finish reading this sentence......did you glance down at the lower left? it shows similar threads to yours down there...now EDIT your thread (this one right here) title to include "torque bind" and similar matching threads will show up at the bottom left of this page you're looking at right now. go to the first post you made on this thread and edit the title - add "torque bind". if i was a moderator i'd do it for you. of course....just use the search button and you get more results.

here's how to sell a car in the city: make it look nice, who cares what the engine is like. most potential customers don't believe the "easy" fix mentality. if it was *that* easy, then you'd do it. you think "it's easy". they think "what else is wrong with it that i *don't* know about?".

this isn't normal, particularly at that age. if it is tight enough and installed properly, get a new drain plug and washer and make sure it's installed the right way.

that's the only thing it may ever see, and that will happen rarely. the XT6 and Ford Truck do all the hitch work.

i would not go through all that work just to remove the rear belt covers, there's no need to. while i remove the rears normally like GD said, i have left them before as well and there's nothing to worry about (at least on mine there wasn't). they weren't needed, but they didn't hurt anything either. looks cooler without them!

i'm confused on what the problem could be, i removed one this summer from an RX and don't recall any issues except RUSTED bolts...grrrr... should only be bolts and clips right? look real close...start at one end and start pulling on it. if it's not bolted down it'll come loose, work your way around the corner and you'll feel it get tight and that's where a bolt or clip is. unbolt or slide clip around....sorry i can't be more help.

there's a really easy way to fix this. just remove both hoses to the heater core. place a garden hose on one end and watch all the gunk come out the other side. flush the engine, radiator and any hoses as much as possible as well. compressed air into the heater core may help as well. much nicer to do this in the summer or on a warm day, your hands are arms get nice and wet and your garden hose won't be frozen! there's a possibility this won't work, but it certainly works often and is the easiest fix, straight forward and doesn't cost anything to try if you have well!!

i have a bolt on hitch for my 1997 impreza. looks solid, but all the black is flaking/peeling off and it has surface rust. what's my best option? is powdercoating overkill and not necessary? what kind of primer paint combo would hold up to this if i wire brushed and painted it? i used some cans of rustoleum on stuff before and it chipped off fairly easily. am i being too picky?

pulling the fuel line at the filter and hanging the hose in a container with gas in it and an extra fuel pump hard wired with alligator clips on the battery may get you out? be easy to do if you had an extra pump on hand.

often the studs get stripped, are you torquing it down with a torque wrench or just by feel? have you tried a Subaru OEM gasket? i'd use a Subaru gasket, torque to specs and make sure the stud and nut threads are cleaning. chase the stud threads with a die and the nut threads with a tap. this will ensure they glide on smooth and the torque you use is the torque you actually get on the gasket. i'd give this one more try with a Subaru gasket. they actually hold up quite well typically, so if it happens again then something is wrong like the head is warped or something.

i put a dab of oil on the threads, i thought that was fairly common and even mentioned in the FSM? maybe i'm wrong. if any of the other bolts were difficult to remove (or sheared off) due to rust or corrosion i'll put antiseize or oil on those, but otherwise dry all the way around. the intake manifold bolts are notorious for rusting and seizing on the older subaru's. i've had at least 4 motors where the bolts sheared off trying to remove them and many are rusted/tough to get out. but i doubt you'll find any like that on yours.

you can check your fuses. but otherwise i'd do what they said and go to the dealer.

buy a non-OEM replacement O2 sensor. they can be had around 20/30 dollars. the $60 more for a plug isn't worth it. the non-OEM replacements just don't have the plastic harness connector on them. they will have only a wire and you cut the plastic connector off the old sensor and splice it on the new one's wire. they come with directions, very simple and it's only one wire! easy!

at 176,000 miles i wonder if a fuel injector could be the issue? i had mine cleaned professionally off the car (remove them, ship them to a company who rebuilds them, reinstall). some tested as "leaking" or "dripping" and i've seen others tested the same way on some other board members vehicles. this was somewhere around 150,000-200,000 miles, i can't really remember. seems to me it was closer to 150,000.

awesome. sometimes just the bearing is replaceable behind the a/c compressor pulley i believe. i've read about it on here before. i think if you do that you don't have to worry about replacing the compressor, discharging and recharging as well.

yep, overheating coolant can affect ATF temps since the ATF cooler runs through the radiator side tank. heat degrades the ATF and trans for sure. if the transmission has problems you'll know very soon, it'll degrade quickly. i suspect no major issues though and it may run for a while if it's not "getting worse".