idosubaru

you do not want to do this swap. the auto trans will also need the wiring harness swapped over too, big PITA going from manual to auto. i'm not a brat expert so i hope i'm wrong, but on all the newer soobs starting with the EA82 80's vehicles would be a nasty job. but of course it *can* be done. in your list of needs you also need to add the pedal assembly (annoying to swap). you shouldn't have any problems finding a decently priced transmnission for your brat and leaving it manual. with the age and miles on these things i'd want to stick with a manual anyway. i'd think a 20 year old automatic would be much more likely to have problems later on. the ATF coolant lines flow through the radiator side tanks, that's the difference you saw. you would either need the radiator for an automatic or install an aftermarket stand alone ATF cooler ($30). you'll also need the rear driveshaft since the auto and manual trans are different lengths. if the rear diff is a different ratio (it usually is from auto to manual), you'd need to swap the rear diff with it as well. thats really easy to do though. didn't brats change between 82 and 87?

famous last words:

this vehicle doesn't have hubcaps does it? i don't think it does, but if it does i'd try reseating them all. any inclination where it's coming form? front, rear, center, left, right? is it just wind noise, do you have a roof rack?

i just read it again and laughed again...WOO HOO!!! i don't know why that is so funny, it just is.

HA HA HAAAAA AHAAHAHAAAH!!!!i hate that you went through that mess, but DANG that was funny!! love the reply, thanks for being honest that's what i'm talking about! thanks for adding humor to a beautiful day!

i would check the crank pulley first and go from there. describe this missing piece of metal. or take a picture. is it the crank key? i doubt it's the timing belt. i wouldn't expect it to run that good if it were off a tooth. and sounds like the plug and wire install went well. there weren't any glitches that you know of during the timing belt or plug/wire install? if a timing belt tensioner had issues that may cause something, but i'm not sure about that.

do not pull the engine, that is crazy talk. timing belt and seals is an easy job. i don't even pull the radiator to do those. although pulling it does help mostly with the crank seal. don't replace just the oil pump gasket. reseal the entire oil pump. it needs the oil seal (under the sprocket), the pump to block "mickey mouse" gasket and an oring. do not replace one and not the others. to get the sprocket off the oil pump use a large...i think a 1 inch socket....on the oil pump rotor to hold it still. then crank the 12 or 14 mm nut off the face of the oil pump pulley. someone on the XT6 boards only replaced the mickeymouse gasket and when he got it back together it leaked terribly out the oil pump seal that he didn't replace. he sold it cheap to me on ebay and i sold it for much more after replacing the $3 seal he neglected. this can be done in a few hours. i gotta go...but i'll tyr to check back......

first - call the mechanic and tell him to hold on to the old transmission, don't let him throw it away. my guesses in order of probability: Diffs are different ratio (don't trust yards or mechanics) Duty Solenoid C isn't getting power (not connected or wire cut during install - only way it could be mechanics fault, not likely) Used trans has torque bind details on above items: you need to verify the rear and front diffs are for sure, absolutely the same ratio. don't worry about what you were told or what the junk yard said, physically check to make sure the final drive ratio is identical on the front and rear. with the entire car off the ground you should be able to turn the front wheels 10, 20, or 40 times or so and count how many revolutions the rears make. if the front turns 37 and the rear turns 40, you know they don't match. next you need to make sure Duty Solenoid C has power to it, if it's not plugged in or doesn't have power you will get the situation you are experiencing now. could be a dirty connection, bent pin, cut wire, or just not connected at all. if this checks out, it's likely the trans had torque bind previously. try a fluid change before assuming the trans is bad. if you think it's torque bind you can replace the rear extension housing, you don't need an entirely new transmission. if you have your old transmission you can likely swap the rear extension housing with it. you said you didn't have torque bind before, so your transfer clutches in your old trans should be fine. swap those, this can be done without removing the transmission. that's a bonus. if you don't have your old transmission, then maybe the yard will give you a rear extension housing to swap? or you'll have to yank and exchange the entire transmission.

OB99W, good job! i forgot to mention that. i agree with his sentiments exactly. get that crank pulley checked out or replaced immediately. you can post a picture of it here if you'd like us to look at it. sounds like it's beginning to separate. you can draw a line across the entire diameter of hte pulley, then check it after running the car. the line will appear to have been "broken" if the pulley is beginning to separate (which it sounds like it has). if this is the case, replace it immediately.

woo hoo! thumbs up for easy fixes! two thumbs up for not taking it to the dealer and them charging you $400 for a new radiator!!

woo hoo! thumbs up for easy fixes!

exactly what nipper said. if you didn't use Subaru OEM wires, then that is most likely your problem.

you really need to find out if it's really a "rod" noise. if it is you probably don't want the car unless you like replacing engines. if it's not, then you're probably fine. piston rods to most people means the engine is toast. rods connect the piston to the crankshaft, that requires a complete tear down of the motor and big bucks. now it could be a misdiagnosis and it's really something much simpler. if it is the rods or bearings in the engine it's not going to last long at all and will require engine tear down and/or replacement. great motor and transmission in that car. when was the timing belt and water pump last replaced? the belts have a replacement interval of 60,000 miles, so there's no telling how old the one in there is. if the owner knows, then that's a plus. if i were getting and didn't know the history i'd change all the fluid, replace the timing belt, water pump, any noise timing bearings, oil pumps seals, and cam seals (all of that is done at the same time, since it's in the same area). the motor in that car is very reliable. the problem is it usually outlives it's water pump and or radiator. if those get old and leak or fail then the motor overheats and if the owner doesn't repair right away or properly then that can damage the motor. so...if it's in good shape and you keep it from overheating and running out of oil, you have a good shot of seeing 250,000 miles.

guys over at xt6.net are saying it won't work. transmission came out of a 1989 non-turbo XT. it appears the non-turbo stubby shafts won't match the xt6 axles. i need a transmission from a turbo EA82 to work in the XT6. how do the EA82 non turbo guys do a 5 lug swap?

a guy i know with an XT6 thinks he needs another transmission installed and i'd probably be the one to do it for him. i don't have any manual trans but i do have an EA82 PT4WD transmission. i'm going to drive it next week and make sure it's not the clutch first, but i'm trying to think ahead to help him out. other than swapping the rear diff and driveshaft to match what other issues might i encounter? it should bolt up right? anyone know how the 4WD mechanism works in the PT4WD EA82 trans? i can wire that into the XT6 DIFF LOCK button hopefully?

headgaskets can fail at any time. i would not assume they've been replaced nor would i assume they won't fail. type in "headgasket" using the search button under "New Generation Forum" and see how many head gasket threads get started for the 2.5. Skip (i think) has a webpage with hundreds of documented failures. this site you're on right now, usmb, is loaded with 2.5 head gasket threads, read up on them is my suggestion. don't be too scared though, this is a great motor and great car. just be informed about the decision your're making. the good news is that they rarely completely blow out and leave you stranded, it should give you warning so it's not a huge liability in terms of getting stranded somewhere. test drive it alot, drive as much and as far as you can and watch the temperature gauge. any fluctuation besides gracefully rising to operating temperature and holding dead steady should be noted. bottom line, search the forum there are tons and tons of threads and information on 2.5 headgaskets. torque bind (use search function to read up on it) is another issue. changing trans fluid and keeping your tires matching and generally being nice to the transmission helps prevent this from happening. drive around in tight circles, if you feel the car "binding" at all, it has torque bind. (this is only an issue with auto AWD transmissions, extremely rare otherwise.) great car. when you get it , have the transmission fluid changed (or make that part of the deal when you buy it) to prevent torque bind.

quit sniffing your automotive chemicals and get back to work! i'm going to try this. my car is running fine though, so not a good candidate for before/after results. if my mileage goes up to 50mpg i'll let you know (har har ha....)

since nipper says it's line pressure problems. there are a few things that can cause fluid line pressure or flow problems that are easy to check/fix: old or clogged radiator (clog in the ATF side tank), kink or bad ATF hoses, dented transmission pan. the whine sounds like issues are beginning but could be lack of flow to the trans (which won't cause desirable things to happen!). very unlikely you have rear diff issues. but even if you did they are super duper easy to replace (unlike the trans). if you're doing it yourself or want to offer good advice to your mechanic make absolutely darn sure that the torque converter is properly seated the last 1/4" before installling and bolting everything up. the torque converter apperas to be seated before it gets that last 1/4", so if you don't know it's easy to assume it's in all the way. that last 1/4" can be very tricky, it can take awhile to seat, which makes people think it's in all the way. not doing this will ruin your new transmission as soon as the engine to trans bolts are tightened. might want to install new hoses and an aftermarket cooler or new radiator so you're ATF cooling is back up to spec's and nothing causes issue there.

i have to be honest, this does not sound good. if it drove 600 miles with no problems then i'd think the block is fine. if it was cracked then it should have shown problems in those 600 miles. same with the heads i would think (in terms of cracked heads). if it's not just burping the system i'd suspect head gasket issues. i'd wonder if the gasket didn't hold for some reason. did you have the head milled properly? what brand head gasket did you use and if it was Subaru are you sure it was the latest and greatest head gasket? (it wasn't old stock was it?) i think i'd try adding some Subaru conditioner right away myself, can't hurt at this point.

you feel confident you got all the air bubbles out of the system? some have had a tough time with that even on numerous attempts. i've never had a problem with it so i'm not too experienced in it, but there's lots of threads here about that. how much was the car driven with the headgaskets being bad?

there is a board member who put a turbo on his Impreza OBS. it was originally non-turbo and has the higher compression non-turbo pistons. he had excellent results and it was fairly easy to do considering. i think there was even an easily accessible oil supply line someone on the EJ22 that he used, but i don't know much about turbo's except that it's been done. it would be my guess that there's information on this board about this kind of stuff, if he didn't write about his own set up at least. the computer didn't even need upgraded, it handled the boost quite well. he actually removed all the turbo stuff and has been driving the car for a long time, it's still in great shape and he drive it in stock form now, back to non-turbo. a 2.5 turbo will definitely drop in without a problem, i just don't know what issues you may encounter. i bet it plugs right in. the engine will be identical, it'll just have different pistons and a few other items, but the basic layout, size, motor mounts are the same. one issue with turbo motors is that the engine cross members on the older subarus are different. the turbo's require some clearance for the exhaust so you have to have a turbo crossmember on some older subaru's to get the swap to work right or customize your exhaust (not a good option). you'd think Subaru would find a way to make them all the same by now though...cheaper manufacturing costs. so...i really don't know any specifics to this swap, it's a relatively new vehicle. but it shouldn't have any problems fitting, but i'd suspect some minor issues to creep up. i'd guess NASIOC guys have more info on these specifics. you'll want an entire engine, engine wiring harness, complete intake, and exhaust. and an ECU might be nice as well.

i've swapped ECU's zillions of times without issue. did you know a 4 cylinder EA82 can run on a 6cylinder XT6 ECU????? not real well, but it does run. in your case, don't sweat it.

i like to change mine fairly often. 30,000 or so, good insurance. don't know of any way to qualify that though, that's just what i do. i use regular Valvoline, if you're using some high end synthetic like Red-line you might not want to change that often. like benebob always says, best bet would be to install an ATF temperature gauge. if it's riding high (i think 200 - 210 is high for ATF), then think about changing it more frequently. i've left mine on many times. it's obvious that it's binding though, so i turn it off right away. i have a 2 pole switch with a light wired in with it, so i can tell if it's "On" (well, er uh, off, you know how it works). easy to miss during the day though with the sun bright. i notice the binding and turn it off. no problems yet.

i've installed a simple 2 pole switch and it works great. i use it all the time, no transmission problems after a couple years of use. why would the switch cause the clutches to be fried (not including mis-use on pavement and what not!!! i haven't seen that problem and as far as i know, the other guys on the board here and at http://www.xt6.net installed it the same way.

i've installed a simple 2 pole switch and it works great. i use it all the time, no transmission problems after a couple years of use. why would the switch cause the clutches to be fried? i haven't seen that problem and as far as i know, the other guys on the board here and at http://www.xt6.net installed it the same way.