Tiny Clark

If it did fill with gas, do an oil change as well.

3/4" plywood, and I would leave the tray in.

First, you need to make sure the A/C water drain tube is not plugged. If it is plugged, nothing will help long term. I used odor-ban on two cars for this problem, but I don't think Sam's carries it anymore. Maybe something from a per store that eats up urine smells. You could also pour some lemon juice in there. The acid may kill the stuff that's growing, and it won't smell as bad as lysol.

Wow, Bob, you sure went out on limb when you said I couldn't possibly fry a high wattage speaker with a low powered amp. When I was in Germany before, we sometimes got really bored in the avionics shop during midshift. Actually, we managed to burn up two voice coils on different speakers with a car Pioneer car stereo. One was a 5 inch, and one a 6x9. I had to prove to an individual who I worked with that burned up two small hifi amps and screwed up one speaker that this was indeed possible. One voice coil opened, and the other burned so bad it distorted the paper material the coil was warapped on, negating the clearance necessary to allow the cone to move. Maybe on paper it shouldn't happen, but don't say it can't be done. Maybe if the sigal was a true square wave, but the clipping we induced as viewed on the o-scope wasn't of that nature. I also repaired home speakers and amplifiers at the audio-photo club due to insufficient power being used to play loud music in dorm rooms.

I would use starter fluid, or propane. WD40 can make a mess.

Injectors aren't just a hole like a carb jet, they are a bit more complex, and my money is betting on one or more of them being Tango Uniform.

It is the shift interlock relay you are hearing. Maybe you had your music up too loud before you put the new brakes on. It is normal; prevents kids, and some stupid adults, from shifting into a gear whilst not meaning to do so.

If you drain the oil when it is hot, there is still oil in the block that hasn't drained down. It can take hours fir it to all travel to the oil pan. IMO, yer better off draining when cold. Sand of the end of your dipstick, so to speak. It'll make it easier to read, even tho the subie is the worst car I have ever owned to check oil on.

The easiest way to destry speakers and amps is too turn the volume up too high. With a 5 watt amp, you can easily fry 200 watt speakers because of what was said by commuter, distortion, which is actually the signal being clipped off, creating a flat voltage level. Speakers cannot handle clipping, because the voice coil tries to hold that signal, heats up, and starts to cook. This clipping also causes the amplifier transistor outputs to heat up, creating a Hiroshima effect. Tie me up, whip me and beat me, just don't make me listen to low fidelity...

You could have a leaky injector, flooding the cylinder so it won't start. Were any of the plugs sooty?

IMO, there is a better way, it's called a voltmeter on the dash. You could always use a zenor to light an LED if the voltage got below 12 volts, just to get your attention. Plain and simple... costs too much.

I have a simple one, but don't know how to post it. I don't think his alternator will overcharge, because it has a built in regulator. The excitation for the alternator to put anything out goes thru the bulb. If the light is good, sounds like maybe that contact in your key switch is bad.

IMO, I don't spend too much on car audio. It basically just masks road and wind noise in a car that isn't really too damn quiet. I usually have my driver's window open anyway. My sound equipment stays in my house. I did buy a Griffin roadtrip for my iPod, which I love.

Ditto on Cougar's post. If the light isn't on when the key is turned on, this usually means the bulb is shot, then the 12 volts excitation voltage won't get to the alternator. The wire runs from the key switch, thru a fuse and on to the alt via the blk/wt wire. You could probably use any 12 volts that comes on with the key in the run position. As a matter of fact, you could also hook a bulb up in line and have the same set-up, but why not just pull the instrument cluster? If you bypass the bulb, you won't know if you have a charging problem.

Hmmmmm, think,think,think... You may need to take the seat out to make it easier to get to it and see it. 4 bolts and a connector or two. How about a flashlight shining down from the top, or maybe some smoke? It might help you pinpoint it.

I would take the antenna off, and pull the cable off with it. Then fish something like solid core wire thru the pillar and connect it to the cable and pull it thru.

The same ground is applied to both lights. Check the voltage at the bulb, which comes straight from the fuses. The 12 volt line should be the middle tab, but I'm not exactly sure. Just compare both sides.

It had to at least have a 30 day warranty. They need to do the job over, or give you an new engine.

Are your crank and cam sensors physically OK, with the wiring on them?

You should have 12v going to terminal 2 of the lights all the time, from the fuses. The low beams (They are tied together) are actuated by a ground on terminal 1, either from the daytime light resistor or the light switch. Either way, they both make contact in the daytime light relay. It doesn't make a diff if the lights switch is turned on? I don't know why it is switching between lights, but that being the case, maybe it's the point where the low beams tie together, which on my diagarm is on the yel/blu wire on the left light. I'm not sure if there is a connector, or a splice.

It has to be running very rich, maybe the ECU engine temp sensor?

C'mon, do it yourself. It's not that hard, and what a feeling of accomplishment you'll have.

And if you still have the original battery, replace it.

insure you are not over-torquing the wheel nuts, as it will cause warping

Unfortunately, you have an R12 freon system. If it needs charging, it will be expensive. Most compressors have a pressure switch that will turn them off if the pressure in the system isn't up to snuff. Maybe you can find someone to put some stop leak in it, then refill it. Best bet may be to convert the system to R134.