Cougar

Stop leak is usually not recommended to put in the system becuase of other problems it can cause. Pulling the radiator is not real difficult if you have a place you can work on it inside (I know it's cold there). You should be able to solder over the hole it if you take it. I remember the Phantoms being here. I used to watch them and the Eagles flying together as the new models were replacing the old ones. The Eagles would well out turn the Phantoms around the field. They were a very good plane but I don't think they can match the F-15. I can hear the guys out there right now while writing this.

I think you can get service done by Python. I think there is a dirfference between manuals and autos, also turbos. I have fixed some in the past also. What is the trouble with yours?

If you don't have a test light probe then go to the store and get one for under 10 dollars. You need this and will be glad you have it. With it you can then check where voltage is getting to and where it isn't. There is no guessing then. You can check the fuses by placing the probe tip on the little test holes of the fuses to check for power through them. From your statements it appears that the brake lights are working ok. You don't say if the front running lights are working but I assume they are out also since the dash lights are not working also. If the fuses are fine then my first hunch would be to check the light switch and see if that is ok. I have a manual for an '88 if you need some info.

One of the problems I had with my '88 GL-10 was the intake manifold gaskets leaked. Have you checked that on yours? I agree with you about the alternator, it does sound like it is in need of attention. Check the voltage on the leads to the alternator. They all should be close to the battery voltage. If they are, I would replace it with a rebuilt by Bosch. If a line is low then you will need to find out what is wrong on that line. I would suspect some of the diodes are shot, very common problem with these. Lastly, if you still have your bad ECU let me know, I may be able to fix it for you. I sure miss my old GL-10. Had it for 12 years and only had about 92k miles on it.

Losing heat while idle usually means low coolant level. The water doesn't have enough circulation through the heater core when the pump is not turning fast.

In section 7 of the manuals for my '01 OB it shows the panel that the shifter goes through just needs to be pried up. This will expose two screws at the bottom of the verticle panel that need to be removed, then pry the panel out and remove a connector. This will then expose the radio mounting screws.

The service manual will have this information. You can go with either a CD or book. I've always prefered books myself but the whole set is fairly spendy to purchase new. I managed to get a used set off Ebay for my '01 OB and saved about half over the new cost. It was well worth the cost in my opinion. I will try looking up the info in my manual since they should be the same most likely or close at least.

I would fix the problem that the ECU is trying to tell you about first. It may be a bad coolant temp sensor and if so then the mixture could be too rich.

I think the high priced ones refered to are either the platinum or iridium models. You can use less expensive plugs Smbol19 without any problem. You will just have to replace them more often than the higher priced ones. Another thing to consider doing a change, is your own time . How much is it worth to you?

When you consider how much mileage you get with the plugs it helps the cost average. If they help the gas mileage go up, then think of the gain in fuel savings you get back. If you think about how much you spend on fuel for going 60,000 miles then $50 dollars really isn't so bad.

I was watching the "Eagles" flying around yesterday over Elemendorf. Let us know if you find the leak.

Hopefully it is just a loose hose clamp that needs tightening and is leaking under pressure. I would fill the radiator with coolant again and start the engine. After it warms up check under the hood for any leaks. If you don't see one then take it for a short drive and check it again. You should be able to see where it is coming from then.

IT sounds like the fuel pump is causing this to me, even though the pressure appears ok. I would like to see the numbers while going up the hill. Hopefully the fuel filters have been replaced already.

Be careful when starting the threads on the new plug. I like feeling the threads start by just using a plug socket and extension if needed. I remove the socket wrench for better FEEL. After I know the threads are started correctly I turn it by hand as far as I can and then finish with the wrench. I have never had a crossthread problem doing a change this way. Let us know if the new plugs make a difference.

Don't feel bad, we all had to learn the basics at some point. Some folks never even bother to learn about plugs or anything about the engine, so feel good you are doing this. Good choice of plugs also. If you stick with NGK's you won't have any problems.

Get in touch with Jamie at www.allsubaru.com/contact.html and she should be able to give you a good deal on one. One place I checked listed the pump for $160.00. She may be able to beat that price. The pulley may have to be pressed off but that is easy to have done. You should be able to do this job real easy yourself and save a bunch of money. PS: Apology accepted. Hang in there, your car is about finished and should be running great soon.

If you are not using NGK plugs and it has be some time since they were replaced I would get a set of those. The problem may also be due to a clogged fuel filter(s) or a weak fuel pump. Replace the filters first. Before replacing the pump, check the fuel pressure.

I would go with a set of factory manuals or at least the ones that cover the area you are going to be working on. If you get a hold of Jamie at Allsubaru.com , she will probably make you a good deal over full dealer prices for them.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for around 15 minutes to see if resetting the alarm system will change things?

A Subaru may not have the room your current car has, but now you know what a Soob can really do in the snow. I love it when this kind of thing happens. Another ex-Soob owner comes to his senses. I'll bet your sister is thanking you for that wonderful snow car about now.

Thanks for the feedback. If you had spark at the coil with the original distributor in place then it seems that there must be a bad coil wire, distributor cap, or rotor causing the problem of no spark to the plugs.

I've seen several ways of stating the term ECS. The most descriptive I think is, "Emission Control System", others are "Engine Control System" and "Electronic Control System". The system is ultimately there to control emissions and shouldn't be ignored when the light is on to warn of a problem. Checking the stored codes in the ECU to see what is causing the problem should be done. In some states that require an IM test, that light must work or the vehicle won't pass inspection.

Mudduck, Have you considered the hazard of exposing yourself to that much RF energy so close? Not to mention the legality of this setup.

There is nothing like reading a good, Subaru in the snow, story. Aren't these cars wonderful. I'll bet a lot of Soob owners back east are glad they own one right now.

The brake lights do pull a fair amount of current but not as much as the other things you mention. With all the things going you mention, there will be a fair load to the system. From the symtoms you describe it sounds like the battery may not be fully charged. I recommend you check the alternator output connection and the battery connections for a bad or dirty connection. If the battery connections haven't been cleaned with a battery brush you should do that. Make sure that the alternator output stud is tight and the connector is not burned. If you work on the alternator remember that the stud is always hot. Don't ground the connection unless the battery is disconnected.