Suzam

Not just snow, but ice and slush are issues too. Once your off the interstates the primary and secondary road conditions are usually worse. Blizzak or Michelin X-Ice snows that handle icy conditions as weel would be the way to go.

Heat shields are famous for rattling. And there are sooooo many on the exhaust. Just a minor change in RPM can cause a harmonic rattle. Look into the simple things first before tearing apart the car.

This system isn't like a 4 wheel system with the locking hubs. With those there is a fuel savings when you unlock the hubs and keep the front components from spinning and causing drag on the driveline. Subaru's alway have a minimum 90/10 front to rear power split that can vary up to 50/50 so the system is always energized. Most all the loss of economy is from the weight of the components themselves not from any drag. You could save move with good driving habits than you would gain from driving with the fuse installed for FWD. The fuse is there for temporary use with a smaller diameter spare tire, not as a permanent installation. You will see an explanation in your manual when you get it.

A higher mileage older 2.2 can develop a bad headgasket. Any motor can have a bad one, no car is immune. A good mechanic can do a hydrocarbon test for you, I'm not sure if it's a "do it yourself" test. If it comes up positive, with the age and mileage on your car, you may be looking for a replacement motor if the body and all else is in good enough shape to keep on the road.

A hydrocarbon test checks the coolant for hydrocarbons created by combustion. If present then gases from the cylinders are entering the coolant through a bad seal in the combustion chamber. The hot gases that get pushed passed the headgasket force the coolant out of the system.

If it pushes out more coolant into the overflow than it takes back after cooling, then air is replacing the coolant in the system. If the heat cuts out before you over heat then there is no coolant in the heater core, again air. Have you change out all the heater and radiator hoses? A partially collapsed hose could also be a problem. If the hoses are good you might have a blown headgasket. You could get a hydrocarbon test to confirm.

Use the search function for info on this problem, you aren't the first to have this happen. The alarm system needs to be reset. There should be a reset button on the underside of the dash near the steering column. You can also try disconnecting the battery, turn on the ignition key and reconnect the battery to reset.

2 interesting points in that story: "Subaru executives noted that the sedan version of the Outback accounts for only about 8 percent of the model's sales, or about 3,500 vehicles a year; the rest are wagons." If that's true for the Outbacks did it include Legacy models also? Maybe SOA will be phasing out the Legacy sedan? and "There are different ways to make a car meet the federal definition of a light truck, including making the rear seats removable to give a wagon a flat loading floor or raising a vehicle's ground clearance to at least 20 centimeters, or a little less than 8 inches. Subaru will raise the Outback's height from a minimum of 7.3 inches to as much as 8.7 inches next year, and will make other adjustments, like altering the position of the rear bumper, to meet light truck specifications."

Having had 2 legacy wagons, 2 Outbacks and one Legacy sedan in the family I would be in line for another Legacy wagon as a first choice when I walk into the dealer. I don't always want an Outback. Didn't SOA meet fleet EPA requirements by increasing the clearance on the Outback so it would be in the light truck category? Could this be why they're skipping over the US for a "regular" wagon?

I'd be putting new ones on the back to match before you cause damage to the AWD. Also the 97 2.2 is interference, better check the timing belt. It's due to change at 180k if it was changed on schedule.

Yes... and Yes.

Depends on which model i think, but 2000 for legacy and outbacks. Not sure for forrester or impreza. Check cars.101.com

The answer/cure to all problems!

Does it matter?

Did you can try to push it down in case it didn't seat the latch last time it was closed? A strong push down over the latch at the front of the hood may seat it and allow the latch to be released.

I know any 16" Subaru wheels from GT's, WRX or Outbacks will fit. I have a set of WRX wheels with 205/55-16 that have been on my 95 sedan and 97 wagon with no clearance issues and just a slightly slower speedometer.

Exactly, we used the term "Wind-up" for the true 4wd plow trucks when you ran them on dry roads. The gearing for the front truck axle is slightly faster than the rear by maybe 1/100th so the front tires always tracked or pulled to help keep the trucks straight. Not a problem on slippery surfaces but on dry the binding was excessive. The stress on the axles, CV and U joints can damage the parts causing even more repairs. For AWD the transfer case (when working correctly) has enough slippage so there is no binding or wind-up.

During very humid conditions I get that sometimes running up into higher elevations where the cooler air is super saturated with humidity. The fast moving air over the cold core of the AC does leave enough time for the moisture to condense on the coils before it blows out the vents. Very disturbing seeing white mist coming out of the vents when you don't expect it. Seems to mostly happen during the cooling cycle when the compressor is first working to cool the air.

You didn't tell us how many miles are on the car, however your binding could be a symptom of torque bind, you can use the search function on the board here to find out all sorts of info about it. It could also be something else like a bad CV joint. Are all the tires the same make, tread wear and at the correct pressures? If they are a quick test is to put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood and see if this stop the binding. The lurch you feel is possibly the normal play in the drive train relaxing after the stress is relived from all the connections. Do you use the parking brake? Keep us posted on your progress.

Thanks for the catch on my info GD, I did't know that about the MY92 having only one.

If you do replace the O2 sensor the "upstream" one by the motor should be genuine Subaru, that's the one that will effect milage. The "downstream" one after the cat doesn't play a part in mileage, it's more of just a monitor, an aftermarket would be fine for it. edit: You should do a search on the board for discussions on O2 sensors.

How many miles? The O2 sensor could be getting tired.

Does the noise remain at a constant volume or quiet down after the engine has been running at operating temp for 10 to 20 minutes?

hood pins would work... but that's extreme. If all the rest fail, the latch is held in position with 2 bolts. Loosen them slightly, not enough to let the latch drop down on it's own (or scribe the height of the latch before you start) and move it a little higher, it won't take much. Tighten and drive it until it pops again or stays in place. There might be rubber adjusters on either side of the front to adjust the alignment compared to the fenders.

My first thought is a coolant temp sensor going bad. They aren't expensive and relatively easy to replace. I had on on a MY95 that did have similar symptoms. Never threw a CEL and once changed the idle went back to acting normal. You should do a search because I think there is a post showing the location of the sensor. BTW- please keep us posted when you do track down and fix the problem so anyone else that has the same issue will know what to try.