MorganM

Good rule of thumb is run half pressure to what you run on the street. Personally I dont air down my tires. I have cheap ATs, no extra side wall tread to use, and I'd rather have the extra inch of clearance vs. whatever traction I gain. I ran at half pressure and didnt notice a difference; however again I do not have good tires that will benefit from airing down. If I had some super swamper sx tires I'd air down for sure! Run at 25psi next time you are out on the trails and see if you like it.

A little bit of pure water is a natrual byproduct of the internal combustion engine. Smell that mositiure and make sure its not coolant. Are you blowing smoke? Just a few dropps out the tail pipe? Are you loosing coolant despite no visable leaks?

I'd suspect that miss adjusted strut extension before the rolling back with the tire spining forward. I kinda figured that it had to be something on that side since you broke two axles on one side and not the other. You saw how hard I was bumping rocks and rolling back in the gorge; no axles broke here! Adjust them down and get them even; then lets rage it again and find out! There's some more offroad events coming up if you are interested. Keep your eyes on the mn-jeep forums; the Go-4's are having another event soon and I have some inside info on two more smaller offroad events coming up soon.

As usuall NorthWet brings up some very relavint and valid points to check out. Get it home, get the radiator out, and start looking real close. I'm pretty sure youll get the belts and back covers off and say "OHHHH SNAPS... there's the problem!" You are already talking about motors swap'ns so whats a little investigating going to cost you? Just a few hours of your tmie

Lets diagnose some things before handing it over to a mechanic. Several things you can try at home here that are metioned above. Good luck!

I grew up in small town Iowa around fire arms; then moved to the big city here in Minnesota. Since then I've had several cars broken into, I've been mugged at gun point, and lived in 'rough' neighborhoods. I still think installing a car alarm for protection of your vehicle is far smarter then using a shot gun; and hoping you dont get shot also. Someone breaking into your car is a far cry from someone breaking into your house while your family sleeps; one is iminet threat to your posessions and the othe is iminet threat to your family. Somebody's life isnt worth meger posessions, IMHO.

How long did you drive it w/o oil pressure? Was it just clacking or was it knocking? Did it start to over heat? Has it siezed? These engines are tougher than most give credit. No harm done in pulling off the timing belts, cam gear, and taking a look at the cam seal.

That's what we are trying to figure out Lets get the starter working then diagnose why it wont start.

It's not vapor lock. Do what NorthWet suggested first off.

No problem man. And in the words of our wise Chilton's / Hayne's Manuals.... installation is reverse order

Slide out that long bolt. Swing the alternator and slip the belt off. Keep swinging the alt and pull on it as you swing it. it should come right out; its kind of a tight fit.

Look for massive oil leakage there behind the cam sproket. Providing you have the back timing belt covers off also and not just the front ones.

Starter selinoid clicks but wont turn over the engine? Checked both timing belts?

Super easy man. One of the best repairs to take on yourself if you are new to doing engine repairs. Should be two bolts, one nut on the back and a plug in the back. Might be a good time to replace that v-belt also. Make sure you unhook the battery before messing with the power wires in the back. Also be sure to get the belt TIGHT when you put the new alternator back on. I usually stick a small cowbar down under the alternator on the drivers side and pry up then snug up the bolts to get it tight.

Front cam seals are behind the timing belt covers on the cam tower. Does not involve tearing down the engine or even removing it. Just have to get the timing belts and covers off to gain access.

How about a rim that has less backspacing so the tire clears the spring?

All over the the right head you say? I'd suspect a cam seal before the oil pump. The oil pump is in the center down low on your block; not off to the passangers side. Those cam seals can just go and cause a big old mess. I doubt your engine is shot; seems like you pulled over as quickly as possible. I'd get tow home and tear into it looking for the leak.

I say swap in the whole SPFI motor. EFI is superior

Wow the parinoia is thick here fellas. Lots of big talk about guns here; I some how think none of you talking about it would actually use one on someone for breaking into your Subaru. How about you just install a damn car alarm and skip the manslauter? Sounds like a much better idea to me.

I've resealed mine once in 200,000 miles. Still on the original housing and impeller.

Try beating the metal out of the way to make room. Instead of putting them at the angle you describe.

I didnt take any pics of it relocated. Only had it there for about week and I decided I didnt like it. Now it's back up front.

Far from rolling there but I'm sure it scared you good in the dark! Trail riding at night is fun but its also alot more risky. A lot more easy to get lost and if someone breaks down or gets stuck it really makes for a long night.

Make sure the coil is wired up properly; it's easy to wire it up backwards. Check for spark at the coil. If you have a solid spark from the coil then check for spark on plug 1. If you have spark on plug 1 then double check the fire order.

About the radiator relocation. I've relocated mine to where the spare tire goes. It hought it was silly and didnt like it; others have done it and liked it. Made a more complicated system and it was totally in the way. I've since moved it to the front where it belongs. I was talking to a guy out on the trails over the 4th weekend. He had a mazda pickup body on a toyota frame and a chevy engine. He said with the engine he ran out of room upfront and moved the radiator to the back. I asked how he ran the coolant back there safely. He said hydrolic hose and copper pipe couplers; looked back there and it was a nice setup. I've personaly used the copper couplers for household plumbing to make a custom fit radiator hose due to the 3" BYB liftkit. It works great; just feed the hose over the coupler and clamp it down tight. The hydrolic hose is a good idea becuase its high pressure and high temp rated. You can also get bulk amounts of radiator hose from truck repair shops (by truck I mean semis and dumptrucks) They will have silicone and normal stuff on a spool sold by the foot.