NoahDL88

To the OP, I meant it as a joke, not to be mean. I would imagine that there are swap out kits that will replace either the whole blinker assembly or just the bulb. but be aware that the LED draws much less amperage than a conventional bulb, so it will flash like you have a bulb out, which looks dumb, unless you have a kit that compensates for that. If you plan on doing it yourself, then you have your work cut out for you.

probably not, unless you were able to convince them it was for a go-kart, offroad only venture

LED How to

It really matters what parts you need, body parts would work from all the bug eyed imps, but engine and drivetrain stuff will be specific to the WRX

The bottom end of an EA series 81-82 has a piston speed tolerant of 14,000 RPM, if you could design a head and valve train to take advantage of the bottom end you'd have yourself one hot engine.

should be one in the EJ swap writeup in the retrofit forum Writeup

Its not that you don't know anything about cars, we can help with that, it is that the pics are the size of postage stamps.

The 6 lug works because you keep two of the studs to keep the wheel aligned with the center of rotation. If you really need to use the wheels get a car they fit on, or try and find a set of 6 lugs that you like and either redrill the wheels or the hubs.

cleaning with alcohol doesn't do the connection any favors. check for resistance between the plug to the cam sensor and the ecu, both in and out wires.

There is a RX-RX floating around out there, I don't know if he used the suby tranny or the RX-7 one though. As far as tranny ratios go you're going to want to go high, 4.11 from a legacy or impreza because the higher rear end ratio will serve the higher revs of the 13B better and get it into the powerband faster.

The XT-6 won't fit on the standard 4 lug rotors, but you can either keep them to do a 5 lug swap down the road, or trade them for the "regular" backing plates and a case of beer, if'n your old enough

It,s not technically an AWD, its 4WD, so its really only 2wd, unless its offroad or really snowy/icy. Not a problem, I've enjoyed mine over the years, but nothing beats true AWD, but a 4WD subie is still better than anything else, just something to keep in mind.

start unplugging connectors and blowing out the water with compressed air and giving each a squirt with WD-40, eventually you'll hit the right one. Generally speaking water is bad for electronics, M-Kay

Pull the clock and see what's back there, its a simple circuit that has a timer and display, should be able to see whats wrong.

As it has already been stated, the biggest issue with pre 97ish headlights is that they fog up and turn yellow, clean them up and you'll be able to see much better. After that connections get corroded and start to add resistance, clean em up with a wire brush and put some di-electric grease in the plug or deoxit the connectors.

Empi or MWE are both good, I'd go MWE over empi, but would happily run both. The EA-81 axles seem to be more failure prone, but can be modified with EA-82 parts to make them more resilient to failure.

You'll notice that Subaru did a bang up job routing in cold air to the airbox, I wouldn't worry about that, if you want to spend money and not get a return, an intake is the way to do it. You have essentially the same intake that is used on the WRX. Cams are a much better place to start if you want actual improvements in HP and torque. Combine them with a better flowing exhaust and you'll really feel a difference. The 2.2 is famous as being stone reliable, not for its power, I'd enjoy it for what it is and save up for a factory turbo down the line.

You need to have a serious mount, the stock bumper is not going to hold up to the forces that a winch will provide. Also, 3500 is not anywhere near what you need, sure, there are guys out there that have ones that are similar sized, but when you're stuck in mud/snow/dirt the rolling resistance of the car is much higher than it's weight. Be sure to double the line with a pulley and be sure that it can handle 7000 pounds weight if you do that.

stp is crap, if you are going to add a fuel cleaner add seafoam, at least that cleaner has detergents in it

Any vacuum lines that are disconnected will cause a high idle. You should check all your hoses as in an older car they could be cracked and leaking. I have personally had a rubber grommit wedge in the throttle cable cam raising the idle. Welcome, and btw, it is considered poor form to bump a post after only 24 Hours.

There are two bolts on the bottom and 3 on the top of the front struts, It is easier to remove them if you disconnect the sway bar. The bottom will require a bit of elbow grease, wedge a screw driver or a flat chisel into the slot where the pinch bolt tightens to the strut. The rear has 2 bolts on top and one on the rear. It is more simple than the front. Do not attempt to swap springs onto new struts without help if this is your first try, they can expand with such force that they can injure you much worse than you can imagine. Imagine a spring in a compressor as a loaded gun with a barrel pointing in both directions, stay out of its path and you should be ok, just don't every try to use body weight or stick your face in front of it.

Probably because its.......wait for it.................... Hard to steer? :cool: There is a super duper FAQ at the top of the offroad sub-forum, it should have all the basic questions you have answered in one convenient place.

My first thought is to use a choke cable of sorts with a locking tab on it, or perhaps a "parking brake" lever lock from a scooter.

Wait for GD to chime in, he's been driving an old chev for a while and can tell you the good, the bad and the ugly with those. The 350/350 combo is pretty solid, and if you've got the better axles the weak link is already fixed.

Go with him on this one, he's the expert.