NoahDL88

If there is no obvious sign of a blown head gasket, (clean cylinder or deformed gasket) be sure to check the heads, they don't often fail, and small cracks between the valves are normal.

Stick with the stock thermostat, your engine was designed to run at a certain temperature, if you have cooling issues you should fix them not band-aid them. A new OEM thermostat is not a bad idea though. For your rear main, go OEM as well. A full tuneup can't hurt at this point either, and make sure you adjust the valves when you get the whole thing back together, unless it has HLA's in which case you're all set. I'd also pull and re-seal the oil pan, cleaning out 25 years of sludge can't hurt.

We all know the 2.2 Legacy harness from the 89-95 is "easy" to parse down and get to a workable unit, and the computer is fairly tolerant to modifications, but has anyone found the upper limit as to what it will accurately and sufficiently flow fuel to? I'm hoping to run a Franken Engine with cams and a good exhaust, but at some point the stock setup will max out the fuel injectors to keep the engine from leaning out. Once we get an answer, or if its already been found lets add this to the Franken-Engine thread

MWE out of Colorado might be able to hook you up if you tell them exactly what you need.

You will quickly ruin your transmission if you have larger wheels and tires, the stock drivetrain won't last long with abuse without front axles. If you're doing it for fun it won't last long.

Maf or disty are two very different issues, do you not have fuel or spark? Identify which one is missing and adjust your diagnosis accordingly. Its probably been mentioned before, but you did line up the timing marks with the 3 small marks on the flywheel and not TDC correct?

130 is cheaper than having your compressor and receiver dryer replaced. Its a chance you take, but if you fix it right the first time you won't have to fix it twice. It might be ok, if it was only open for a few minutes, but if you left it open for a few days I'd get it sucked down and filled correctly.

All Hail Noah, destroyer of clutches!!! Whats more embarrassing is that you and Tex made it through there so easily.

I seem to remember your cars over the years in pictures like that

I really don't have room for a whole car, but I'm sure we can work something out, if nothing else we can part it out and call up the metal man to take the shell.

Finally got the drive-shaft for the 5spd Swapped 86 Hatch, and of course that pesky little thing called registration Runs great, if not a little bit loud with the lack of a muffler. I've got a lift kit sitting in the back seat, and a set of Pugs that need some tires and I'll be ready to go off-roading again. The plan is to run a Franken-Engine, A little birdy told me that the 2.2 con-rods keep the compression a little bit more pre-detonation friendly. My hope is to run Propane/CNG, so the extra compression won't be a problem. Couple of cams and it should rip. Still need a 2.5 and a 2.2 as well as the harness and a whole bunch of other stuff, not the least of which, a jerb, but first things first.

Clean engine swap, the EA-82 looks good in there. Be sure to keep the coolant happy, the EA-82 is reliable, even if the timing components do seem to fail at the most in-opportune time (twice in Montana from Seattle to Michigan.)

I showed up at WCSS10 on my motorbike, USMB'rs are pretty forgiving. I'm in, just got the drive-shaft for the 5 speed swap, so I need to stretch the hatchback's legs.

That seems very low, especially the 85, pull the fuel injector plug, hold the throttle to the floor and crank over a few times. pull all the plugs before you crank the engine over as well, but be careful with the plug wires, if they spark they could ignite leftover fuel.

Swap the air filter out first before you try anything else.

Hey mods, can we condense the two threads about this one engine into one thread? Like I said in the other thread, check your air filter, if its wet, or got wet and is now dry, that is your problem. Super cereal, check it out. I'd even put cashy monies on it.

Standard tune-up items help, NGK cheap-o plugs, they run best on the 3.49 plugs Plug wires should be fine, if they look bad though replace em, also a resistance check will help tell if they're ready to be replaced. Fuel and air filters will give you a good return if the old ones are dirty, if you don't remember swapping them out its not a bad idea to change them Tranny fluid and rear diff fluid can cost you a few MPG if its old or over filled, so don't be afraid to check those out too. Air pressure in tires is a big one too, but everyone already knows that one.

No, you should really check the compression. I understand, I was 17 once and knew everything, and did what I damn well pleased and didn't listen to the people trying to help by giving good advice. After you've checked compression, (which will also help you determine if you've jumped timing) you should... Double check the plug wires to the spark plugs Spray the inside of your Distributor with WD-40 to get the water out. Pull apart all the plugs you can get to and spray the insides of them with WD-40 Check your fluid in your tranny and rear diff, if you get the car running again any water in those will destroy them from the inside out. Ultimately your car needs 3 things to run, Air, Fuel and Spark. It occurs to me if you havn't checked your air filter, you should get a new one, I swamped my 88 many years ago and didn't lock the engine, but did soak the filter and it would start and idle, but not accelerate.

Possibly ignition relay, cuts power to the engine and then when the relay kicks back on it compression starts? I have a similar issue with my 94, but its not bad enough yet to warrant taking apart the dash to get to the relay.

If water got into the engine, I'd do a compression check, it will save you a lot of diagnosis time if you find out right away that you've already ruined your engine. I'm sure its not what you want to hear, but if it makes you feel any better, I sucked some water in my dirtbike and had to rebuild the cylinder/piston assembly.

What is specifically shutting off? Is the engine stalling or are you loosing all electrical power?

Like everybody else, cut and weld the steering shaft, there is a removable piece, pull it and cut it, most sleeve the shaft with pipe and tack weld in place, and weld it permanently out of the car and reinstall.

Sell the subie, and get the 4 runner, its more what you want, and cheaper in the long run if you want to go serious with the offroading. As someone who is already in the military, let me give you my .02 cents, E-2 pay is lousy, heck even E-4 pay is pretty low unless you are getting BAH/BAS and as someone fresh out of basic, you probably won't be getting either. Don't go blowing your paychecks on toys and put yourself into debt, a great deal of jobs in the airforce require security clearance, which you will loose the second you don't pay your bills. Also, put as much as you can into TSP, seriously, that money adds up quick, and when you're ready to retire at 50 you'll be a millionaire.

Stick will be easier, seriously though, go to the retrofitting forum and read the EJ swap FAQ, it will save you time not having to ask every single question at once. There is also a really good FAQ in the offroad forum as well. Welcome aboard

You'll have to pull the pistons, there are holes in the block, large 14 or 17mm hex head so you can pull the wrist pins and pop the pistons out. If you don't the block will only come apart a few inches. There are a few sneaky bolts hidden on the inside, in the water passages IIRC, so be sure to check for those