NoahDL88

If my memory serves, the timing gear off the Cam/Crank (forget which one) is part of the shaft, and shouldn't spin on its own. Check the gear on your distributor, as well as the rotor again, make sure the screw is locked into the flat spot at the top. If your bolts holding in the disty aren't tight that could also cause your timing to slip.

the screw on the rotor could have fallen out and that may be messing up your timing. If the rotor is flopping around in there that could be your problem.

I'll probably be going, want to throw a hood in the back of the brat?

I've been debating standalone, but it seems a bit excessive for just running ignition.

I'm trying to translate into English You recently replaced your head-gaskets? You added oil, but didn't add coolant? You added half of a jug of coolant to a system that needs about 2 full jugs and the engine stalled because you over heated it and the engine seized? The EA-82 is a small engine but this is nonsense and you need help so you can go on vacation with your girlfriend? It sounds to me, that since you swapped head gaskets and didn't add enough coolant that you seized your engine and probably scuffed the cylinders. I'd do a compression check after you top up the oil and coolant and hope you still have compression and you might not have to do your head-gaskets again. Either way your engine is most likely toast, especially if it won't turn over after it has completely cooled.

About 70% lifted, still need to fix the steering extension and get the Rancho shocks for the rear!!

Check your connections? You probably have a connection that was marginal at first and it vibrated loose?

Yeah, I gotta call you

Has anyone re-strung one of those? I'd like to eventually get the one on my hatch fixed, but would like to get pointers from anyone who's done it before. Something tells me its not nearly as fun as it looks.

Yes, you won't need to modify anything. You will need EA-71 rings I believe, but its been a while since I did that mod so I don't remember.

Keep us updated. The car in question is ab out 150 miles away, so when I head up there I want to grab everything I need and not have to make a second trip, Well not for the car anyway, its always nice to visit Scott, I'd just rather take the bike, it gets 60mpg This engine may either end up in a 94 leggo, running 2.2 heads, or in the 86 hatch (EA-81) running propane, probably also with 2.2 heads to take advantage of the extra compression. Either way the harness may actually may be a moot point, the 94 can run the stock harness and I'll only need ignition for the propane swap.

They will work, they raise compression however, so be aware of that.

So an EA-81 body is totally out of the question?

Its not really a hill if you can span the entire thing with your car I got my start on snow piles in parking lots, we all gotta start somewhere. Get some real wheeling shots, get out there with your friends, so they have someone to pull them out when they try to show up your Subaru.

Cleaned off most of the moss, tabbed and titled. Finally got around to installing the drive shaft, tested 4Lo Beat out a few dents and got the headlight bezel for the drivers side installed Just need to adjust some bumper mounts and I'll be road worthy again.

I wasn't trying to be mean, I just wanted anybody reading this thread to know that that is definitely not what those are for. Safety is serious business

That is not a seatbelt anchor, that is a tab that the folded up seat fits into to give you a stable platform in the back of the car when the seat is folded down. Its plastic and at best would hold about 50 pounds. A 50 pound kid in a head on would weight about 500

I even have a patent

Don't fabricate seatbelts, either the holes are there and it will work, or they are not and it won't. The forces in an accident are extremely high, and backyard fabrication will most likely not have the strength to hold up to those forces. Most likely the well for the retractors will be different as well.

Cool, I've done a few EJ22 swaps, so this should be cake. The donor car looks like it will be a 00 Outback, so things are looking good.

I believe the back ones are accessible with the engine in the car, you just have to be creative. Worst case, pull the motor mount bolts and jack it up an inch or so.

There is a small chance that the later Loyale models 90-94 may have had rear seat shoulder harnesses. If you swap them in I believe that the holes should already be in the 87. Things to be aware of..... The position of the seat belts are specific, you can't swap in fronts to the rear, or side to side. Ensure that the bolts are good and tight, if they are loose they will shear off at a much lower force. You probably won't have to swap the buckle, but if you find them I'd grab them just in-case. You'll need the updated plastic trim pieces as well, they'll have a hole or slot as necessary for the webbing. Check your car first though, if it doesn't have a 8-10mm hole at about ear level with nothing in it, you won't be able to swap them in.

One most certainly could assume, however, cracked heads do occur.

Awesome, Have you found anything on stripping the OBD-II harness? I know, I know, search...... Thanks for the help

If there is no obvious sign of a blown head gasket, (clean cylinder or deformed gasket) be sure to check the heads, they don't often fail, and small cracks between the valves are normal.