NoahDL88

I'm gonna throw it on the alignment rack at work, and see if its just the fact that my toe is way out. After that i'm out of ideas.

I wouldn't start cutting out windows and the roof to save weight, thats very important, especially if you're offroading, its the only thing holding the rocks out. Gut the interior instead

Maybe its been said, but i didn't want to go through 5 pages of blinker fluid. Anyway, the EA-anything isn't a raging hotrod, because it flows so poorly from the factory that it takes mucho dinero to make any reasonable amount of power from it, money that could me more easily spent on say an EJ22T and get 2-3 times the power, all for the same amount of money. Trust me, you don't want to be the guy that spent 2000 on a custom EA-81 only to get 140 hp, unless its for a very specific rally classification that only allows the stock engine block. for daily driving the EJ series is a winner every day. That, and it only has 3 mains, which due to the inherent fluctuations of the tortional vibrations causes dynamic flexures in the cylinder walls which make the entire vehicle unstable at high speeds, and could very easily make it loose traction and go off course in turns when the engine is above 4500 rpm More money + EA = less power --> less fun Less money + EJ = more power --> More fun

Umm, I'm 6 hours and 22 minutes away, according to yahoo maps, how about you PM me, i send you my address, and you ship it to me? Cause gas there and back would be around 100 bucks, plus the 12 hours travel. :-\

Thats good news. It seems like its only a problem on the drivers side, when i push in the top of the knuckle to bolt it to the strut, it was really hard to get the holes to line up, and it seemed like it was the axle that was limiting the inward travel. I guess i'll go through it again and see what i can find.

I have an almost complete EJ harness sitting in the back seat of my car, i'll see if i can't get some pictures of the keep and cut stuff.

Used an impact, so i'm pretty sure there all the way through :-\

So, with Impreza hubs and FWD axles, i have all the fit issues taken care of, but it seems like the axles are being pushed together, as if there too long, anyone else have this problem?

Get a service manual, it'll make your life infinately better. ShawnW will get it ready for you and strip it down for i think 200 bucks. Kenedy adapters makes a really good info kit for wiring, its around 25 bucks, but its worth it.

Its alright, i think i have it figured out.

Umm, yeah, eliminateing it is easy, its the 2 wires that don't have a home that are currently the problem.

Could just be a dirty valve, a bad valve would give you no compression. Try some seafoam through a vacuum line, if theres carbon in there it will absorb fuel and make your HC's go up.

You can drill the t-stat hole out for a nut and bolt setup, had that on my EA-82 for about 3 years, worked great. As for the EGR, if thats not sealed, that will be one huge vacuum leak.

The green connectors are near the wiper motor. those will set the timing to base, from which you can set your 20 degrees BTDC does it run good when its warm? Are the timing marks on the belts all in the right spots? Did you change the fuel filter?

Is your T-stat stuck open? Happened to me with a brand new one, go with an OEM subie one, they don't seem to have the problems that the aftermarket has.

Theres a small coolant hose under the throttle body, that goes from the top of the block to the manifold, if thats off, it'll piss coolant.

On another oil note, every oil with the dougnut and the star on the back meet minimum requirements, if you don't see both, don't buy that oil. That said, those are the minimums, your name brand oils are going to have more of a space between those minimums and what they are actually at, so after 3000 miles, the good oils, Castrol, Mobile 1 and the like will still be above the minimums where your walmart brand will be just scraping by. don't forget to change your filter.

Hmm, i can't say for sure without looking at it, i'd say get a volt meter, and hook it up to the battery, and turn on all your headlights and see if the voltage drops, if it does your alt is shot. which could be your problem.

Leave some innovation for the rest of us, whats next, a sealed passenger compartment and propellers?

If the two wire plug is shapped like a T then thats your alternator wire, and thats rather important. Go through and make sure all your connections are tight and that everything that was plugged in is, any shiny clean halves of connectors should have a mate.

A good 10W-30 like they said. i'd say away from the bigger spread oils as they break down faster and have more additives and less base oil. On the other end of the spectrum, a lot of guys run 20W-50 in the summer cause it leaks less, but it causes more harm than good because of increased wear at startup. Stay away from "high mileage" motor oils, if you stop using them, like rogaine, the leaks come back twice as bad, which will make your hair fall out.

The SMJ is 6 columns by A-P rows, so its a 6X16 i'm specifically looking for the wires that go through L4 and L5

Theres some really good info over on Legacy central do a search for wiring diagrams, or check out the FAQ, its near the top

Ohh, it needs some parts for the hatch anyone up for a sunday run?

Definately shouldn't have been stuck