NoahDL88

QBaby, JMHO but most of us guys here don't speak l33t and teh spelling goes a long way. I dropped the EJ22 (gen 1 legacy 2.2l) into my 88 and i've never regretted it, same if not better econ, real usable power even with the big tires. Much easier than trying to hop up an EA series, and much cheaper too, they even have aftermarket parts for them.

I just so happen to have most everything to complete the turbo swap sitting in my back yard, the engine would need rebuilt but otherwise harness and whatnot is all there.

Its not good for Cat converters, if thats a 1000 dollar mistake you want to make go for it. Also with those new fangled hardened valve seats, its kind of redundant

Octane is a resistance to detonation, not an increase in "power". Higher octane gives you more power because it allows you to run higher compression, earlier ignition timing, and more boost if thats the way you go. 99.9% of the time increasing your octane above factory reccomendations will not increase power or economy, unless you've done something to the engine. It costs more and does nothing, why use it?

Yeah, and if that puts me in Portland for the day i'll have to swing by and look at that rats nest for you. Nothing some electrical tape and a pair of dikes can't fix.

I may have to find myself up there, but my only working offroad rig is the 2 wheeled variety.

I got it, thanks, i'm polishing up my CV and will forward it on to you ASAP. Thanks a bunch

No matter how far i stray from Subies, i'll still be at the show, and i'll still renew my USMB donation every year. It stopped being about the cars long ago, and has been about the people ever since.

CCR is a Subaru only engine rebuilder in Colorado, probably one of the best for subarus. What does it need, well, to start, it could use a better exhaust, which i might be getting for doing some work on the brat in Oak Harbor. Its running an MRT 2.5rs Rally header from Australia, which makes my ground clearance about as bad as a 93 civic with chopped coils. I'm planning on swapping to a turbo header off of a 2.0T to keep it tucked up out of the way. (no turbo though, i don't like suprize power when i'm wheeling) After that, the front suspension could use some work, I need coilovers to fit the swampers, the stock impreza coil perch rubs the tires, I have a horrible camber problem and need that sorted out along with the skid plate issue that i've yet to solve, but i do have a street sign collecting dust in the basement, so that problem might be solved. Cooling has always been an issue with it, i used the thick pipe not copper when i made an adapter for the radiator, so i'd like to swap to thin wall copper before i drive it too much, and then add another fan. Powersteering is also a minor SNAFU, it either needs new lines to the pump and a way to get the legacy pump to work with the EA rack, or i need a non power rack, which would be just fine too. Oh, and the gauge lights don't work, along with the tail lights, and the horn comes on intermittantly when i'm not in the car. Other than that she's a real peach :cool:

1988 EA-82 wagon, 5mt D/R 1.59 low (standard GL 4wd) Impreza front suspension and XT-6 lower control arms FWD impreza axles The axles were unhappy with the standard XT-6 control arms. I had them extended around 1 inch, but i don't think that was the best length for them, the wheels still have a pronounced positive(?) camber, the tops are out. In the next couple of weeks i'll see if i can't get under it and figure out what the best course of action is to sort out my problem. I believe the radius rods could use some attention as well. On acceleration it pulls left, and on hard breaking it pulls right, talk about a fun time.

I've not been Subaru-less, Just on the bike for everything that doesn't require four wheels, which for the last 2.5 years has only been about 3 trips to work and 2 trips over the mountains. Anyway, The WCSS X has got me excited about subarus again, (must have been the excellent committe that put it together, excellent job guys and gals ) Got some stuff to sort out on my 88 wagon, theres a Brat in Oak Harbour that has some way overdue love coming its way and then i'll be able to start on an as yet un aquired project. Aaron in Portland has graciously decided to part ways with one of his older subie wagons, so shortly i'll be making a trip down to the PDX to take a look at some cars and figure out which color is best for Katie ( It won't be hers, but girls are better with colors, whats a guy to do?) I'm thinking a swap to an EA-81 based on resonable parts availability, and the fact that i have a CCR engine sitting in my parents garage in San Diego with an RX tranny just begging to be put into something. So, I'm sorry for just up and leaving you all like that 2 years ago :-\ But hopefully you'll all forgive and forget. BTW, if anyone has stuck an EA-81 into a late 70's wagon and has any pertinent info on what i should look out for, or if its even possible feel free to let me know, if i have to chop framerails that might determine which car i choose (i wouldn't choose the prettiest one in that case) And if anyone is coming up from San Diego to Seattle, or even to Portland and wants to load up an engine and tranny before you go i'd be much appreciative, and of course willing to pay. I even have a set of gen 1 forester steel wheels if that would sweeten the pot.

Did the swap in late 2005 Body: 1988 DL Engine: 1991 2.2, replaced with unspecified 90-94 JDM low miler when the engine got fraked (turns out it was only an idler pully and it now resides in a friends sisters legacy with around 245k on it) Tranny GL 1.59 low range, standard EA-82 fare. Susp: Impreza/XT-6 under a PK-Ozified 3 inch lift Wheels/Tires: 14 inch steelies from an Impreza W/27 inch SSR swampers. As a heads up, the offset from the impreza tires with impreza struts is not so yummy with the bottom of the spring pearch. Its an interference fit, and even with it notched and rewelded it rubbed above 75mph on bald SSR's. (so if anyone has a set of impreza coilovers that they want to get rid of cheap, even ebay specials, i'm all ears)

I was going to use that excuse to bring you mine:rolleyes:

I'm glad I stopped by so I could share in this wonderful news. I didn't even know you were expecting. Congratulations, and the best of health to all of you. PS, Eric A. and the brat will be getting a long overdue visit next weekend :cool: We've been trying to line up schedules last month or so.

Just an FYI, the cooler T-stat will not allow your car to reach its maximum operating efficiency, expect a fuel mileage drop, and an increase in buildup on your valves. The FHI guys knew what they were doing when they called for a 192 degree T-stat. :cool:

The "clutch" fan is driven off of a belt, it is on when the engine is on, there is no way to turn it off. The electric fan is designed to come on when the engine reaches a certain temperature, specifically when it is getting hot and needs the extra cooling.

The non-AC models have just the electric fan, the AC models have both an electric, and a clutch type. Like i told you on the phone, i think its a relay or a switch, either the switch is shorted or the relay is sticking, but either one is a stretch.

I had USMB when i lived in Michigan

Ditto, go with NGK's i promise you'll wish you had if you buy bosch

Could always just get a new switch at the PAP :-\ you might also check for a good 12 volts to the switch to make sure you're getting all your wheaties to the window motor.

I have an 84 hatch, the body is decent, it could use an axle and maybe a tranny, but you'd want to swap in the 5mt right? BTW, i told austin, but i don't know if he has his phone number.

I think we stole it from the Vee dubs

You have to spin in the piston on the front caliper, needle nose pliers work well for that, be careful that you don't rip skin, my calipers usually go back in red . Also take the cap off the resovoir it makes turning it in easier, don't forget to push as you turn. for the front suspension check that your sway bar is still hooked up on both sides, and check the connections of everything, make sure that your ball joints are tight and that your tie rod ends are too, and check that radius rod plate at the rear with the 21mm nut.

The kind of work you do on your car is the kind of work I aspire to, everything is so clean and professional you can really tell that you pay attention to every detail.

theres no plug and play, if there was everyone would do it, check out the retrofit forum, there are a few great writeups about the whole process.