NoahDL88

thats a pretty hot intake.

Use a large 5 lbs sledge on the back of the rim, its what we do at work. If its an alloy wheel, you might use a block of wood between the wheel and the hammer.

It could be that you do infact have a bad master cylinder, but since the piston is now in a different position its sealing better. Also, don't assume that you have to replace components if you have a mushy pedal, a brake bleed will do wonders.

A carby manifold for an EJ? Sorry, was i not supposed to give it away?

Judging by the large print, i'd venture to guess that it needs gas, and possibly a transmission flush if its an auto.

Get yourself a volt meter, or at the very least a test light, you're not gonna be doing any electrical diag without it. once you get the proper tools, check for 12 volts at the + side of the coil, and see if that's getting the juice. After that pull the center wire off of the disty and hold it close to any metal part of the engine, and have a buddy crank over the engine, see if you have spark. If you have spark there, its an issue with the disty connections, if you don't, your coil or wiring to the coil is bad.

GCK has been pretty popular around here, and i have a set of EMPI axles, and when i asked what they warranty was, the guy said " i don't know, we've never had to warranty one"

Holy Triple post batman !! Check out Ram Engines, they have a bunch of stuff to improve performance of the EA-81. As for milling the head, don't go more than .020 per head, or you won't be able to compensate for the intake and exhaust.

you're gonna hit the strut perch before you hit the fenders, even with the forester struts. The forester bits will make it able to clear with some trimming to the fenders, but you're gonna need something to get rid of the lower perch, like coilovers or some creative fabricating.

I have a PP6 that i plan on installing on my 88, its an EJ22 so it makes more sense justifying the 400 ish bucks you're gonna spend on it, as you'll actually feel the results on the EJ. Combine that with an MRT rally header, and i think it should feel down right peppy. Not saying you shouldn't, but it seems like overkill for an EA, go for the EJ25, you won't regret it.

Welcome to the family

You're gonna want temp, and oil pressure, i wired in a fan seperate, as its much easier than integrating the both together. unless its OBDII, you don't need the VSS. The neutral position switch is over rated, and the test mode connectors are all there, the single green and black connectors. Tach signal is a black blue wire, you'll have to look very carefully cause it just looks like any other black wire.

I'll bring the tools, well, you have a fair amount, i guess i'm jsut thinking for the PAP

Gonna be heading out there if the weather is good, then were gonna get Austins car running, in less time than it took to get Tex's running. After that who knows. Probably be around noon, depending on traffic. BTW, Austin, were working on your car this weekend.

I don't believe so, because the stub shaft design is different. The VLSD from the 91 SS legacy should be though, the newer stuff, i'm pretty sure isn't

I'll be picking it up from Turbone on sunday, and bringing it to Oly, and handing it off to Monstaru, who will get it to easter WA, then its his ball of wax.

Not really, if you're in the Detroit area, go to Hodges Subaru, there the best.

What part of Mi do you hail from? I grew up in Kzoo, and spent a couple of years in Detroit. Subaru's get no respect in MI, but its worth the grief to be able to get around in the snow, and still get good fuel economy.

Blocks are right They are front struts, rears don't work, they hit the axle No, you didn't give me bushings :-\

I'm \....../ from the front, and if you're looking at it from the top, its the same, i've got about a half and inch toe in.

Postus Ex Mortis It lives again!!

I have a cardboard template of the adapter plate that i have, that i traced when i had the motor out, i'll trace you a copy of it and add it to your bill

1988 DL Wagon 88 GL Dual range Impreza FWD Axles 98 OBS Struts PK 3" lift Impreza Knuckles

At this point the car is not driveable, so i'm willing to take my chances.

So, my camber is not able to be adjusted all the way in using the EJ camber adjusting bolt, which means my angles are screwed up, and because of that my CV's are axially compressed, so they make funny noises (not funny ha ha, but funny ) anyway. My plan is to lenthen the control arms by cutting them and extending them 25mm, or about 1 inch, to bring the hub out to where it should be happier. Does this sound stupid? I'm gonna have a real welder do this, i can weld, but i know just enough about welding to know to let a professional do it.