NoahDL88

As has been said, 10mm, i've found the only wrench that fits is the Mac knuckle saver, all the other ones i've used have been too big, be careful not to round the bolts.

In a word yes, the second turbo won't clear the master cylinder, so you'd have to switch to a single turbo, unless you find a right hand drive brat.

"cheap but good" that guy is funny

I have an A bar off of an 84 hatch, its yours if you want it. Provided the gen 1 bar doesn't fit of course.

is the shifter linkage all connected? could be a broken shift fork inside the tranny.

have you looked at the rallytek website? try primitive racing, they have tons of rally stuff.

Happened to my 94, the handle broke so the rod wouldn't move, try looking up from the bottom to see if its broken on the outside, then you may have to use pliers to pull the rod down. if its broken on the inside you may have to sacrifice the plastic liner if you can't get it out easily so you can open it from the inside. Push down on the handle and then lock/unlock, i've had it that the handle stuck up and wouldn't allow the latch to unlock. good luck

I worked hard at it and eat right?

Does it change when the brakes are applied? Check your axle boots, i had one that would shake the bejesus out of the wheel, found out the boot was long gone and so was the grease.

if the 85 is EA-82 can't you just swap the long block and leave the original intake that came with the car on the new engine? Might also have to swap distys but thats easy too.

Yay, and thanks for all the hard work that you all at the WCSS planning committee do for us. I think a lot of us out here don't realize how hard it is to plan these things because for the participants all we see is a well oiled machine and a fantastic weekend when we get to the event.

Make sure you have enough coolant, if you don't the heater core won't fill with fluid

I am

:-\ I've got my "baby" the first subie i've ever owned sitting in the drive way. Its been sitting there for 2 years, with maybe 200 miles on it in that time. It needs some serious help, but i'm just not motivated to get at it. And i'm not quite ready to say goodbye. Just the short list: Radiator hoses need replacement, i used thick pipe when i swapped in the EJ, and i really need to swap in some thin wall copper tube so i get better water flow. Second radiator fan, she over heats when its warm out, which in the PNW is anything over 45 Its got some funkey cold start issue, pretty sure its the coolant temp sensor, but i'd honestly be shotgunning that one. Exhaust is a sweet MRT rally header shipped from Australia, but its for a 2.5 so its a bit, umm, big for the EJ-22 in there. and it hangs down real low so i got to get the stock exhaust back on, or maybe something more custom. Skid plate, skidplate, skidplate, that EJ pan hangs down something scary, nuff said. The heat control doesnt work, 6 years ago i swapped dash boards and never finished hooking everything up together. Ahh, here's an easy one, the wipers are shot, all 3 of em. My horn randomly comes on, and there is a battery drain, which sucks, if i let it sit for more than a week its dead (which happens more often then not, i've been on the motorbike the last 3 years) Five lug was not the best choice for a lifted rig. gotta get back to its roots and go 4 lug again. This is just off the top of my head, i'm sure there is more that has to be done. :-\ Motivate me please !!

the piece in question looks like it could be part of the piston, between the two compression rings.

If you only have 43 dollars, maybe buying a car isn't the best idea, its going to cost double that to register it, and then a bunch more to get insurance on it. :-\

Push and twist? Where are you located, maybe a USMB local can come check it out for you

Look for a whole car, its easier, and to simplify even more, find a stick shift car, fwd or 4wd won't matter. Kennedy engineering has a $35 "manual" that pretty much sums up the swap for putting it into a vannagon, 95% of the info is still very good, and is well worth the money if you decide to do the wiring yourself. There is so much info on the swap that you could spend weeks looking and not read it all. Hardest part will be the wiring and the flywheel/spacer but the latter two parts are made by a few people on the board.

It looks too much like an audi/infinity/chevy

Only about half the parts that are needed for the swap are XT-6, on the front you can get by with knuckles and struts from an early Impreza, and if you are running a non turbo tranny, use 93 FWD impreza axles. The lower control arm needs to be XT-6 though. For the front brake calipers, you can use Impreza, but you loose your front e-brake, which is pretty useful and important. On the rears, the caliper can be normal XT or any GL-10 rear caliper, but the rotors and the backing plates have to be XT-6

I will have to ask him how he got the 5 lug and the lift to work together, mine is unhappy the way it sits.

First, I believe that this nation should commit itself to achieving the goal, before this decade is out, of Fabricating a Mid engined Brat and returning him safely to the Road. No single Subaru project in this period will be more impressive to mankind, or more important for the long-range exploration of Roads; and none will be so difficult or expensive to accomplish. We propose to accelerate the development of the appropriate Road craft. We propose to develop alternate Engines, much larger than any now being developed, until certain which is superior. Sorry, couldn't resist, Kennedy eat your heart out. If someone has a FWD Impreza 2.2 and a Brat with a blown engine let me know, i could use a new project.

The whole time I was reading this thread that was what i thought they would be doing, it seems like everyone else wants to over complicate it. Shift linkages should be real easy to fabricate, and the best part, you could put a nice piece of sheet aluminum under the front and have something of a bow, Prerunner style. and if you wanted to get real creative even make it float.

You will want to rough up the rotors though, if you put a new pad on an old rotor it won't bed in properly and you'll never get a good brake feel. Just hit them with a scotch brite pad in a small circular motion all around the disc, both sides. and make sure to clean them real well before you put the pads on.

drain the gas out of the tank, replace the fuel filter, if the tanks not rusty count your blessings, add fresh gas. replace the spark plugs, probably the battery. I'd soak the carb in cleaner, after a few years you're gonna have some nasty varnish buildup, take the carbs apart and make sure the jets are clear. spin the motor over by hand, change the oil and filter, maybe put a squirt of oil in the cylinders and turn it over a couple of times till it all spurts out the spark plug hole. good luck.