NoahDL88

The money invested in making an EA-82T run 140 hp would be more useful in making an EJ22T, or just the plain EJ22 more peppy, and the EJ series is arguably much more reliable. I'd go EJ, just my .02 cents

the firing order is 1-3-2-4, the passenger side is the 1-3 side, and the drivers side is the 2-4.

Not true, but thanks for playing Get it fixed, no matter the cost, it beats eating windsheild

Of course its not a joke, but you're making a mountain out of a mole hill. too bad that you have the ORV Gestapo in MN, but i don't think that the other 49 states will be looking at the great and powerful MN for precident on ORV usage.

Don't let this get around, but i heard that if we let just one small south east asian country fall to communism, the entire world will go pinko commie. I'm just sayin

The EJ22T has piston squirters Get the book "maximum boost" by corky bell, that has a rather good chapter on cooling, such as piston squirters and the like.

PM sent. OK not really, but you know what i'm good for, and that i plan to help in any way possible.

It all boils down to tire choice

You'd need to run a wet system, and even then i don't think it would make a difference in turning boggers, at lest reliably, and if you're using it to get moving from every light, it'll last maybe half a mile. Don't think it would be a good idea. When you say low compression, are you running a turbo motor without a turbo?

Its a keep two down/ride safe thing if you don't ride, you won't understand. all you drivers look funny in your cages

Theres been a subaru wave for years, just a plain old wave :cool:

I used the EJ hubs, and the EJ FWD axles, and that worked for me, they seem a bit long, so i'm running into problems there, but they fit outboard and inboard.

Thats pretty sweet, i may have to copy your design. How many mm thick is that? around 7?

It does, but i'm positive someone has drilled out that hole before. :cool:

Will the bushings and inner metal tubes from the XT-6 fit on RX control arms? cause i have the XT-6 bits on my car, but if i take them off to lengthen them its conna be immobile, so if i can swap the inner bushings i won't have to take them off the car. Also, i know i'll have to drill the outer ball joint hole, anyone know specifically how big, or do you just go one size bigger from the size it is until you get a good fit?

Definately clean it, i asked at the dealership once about a bad idle and they said they rarely replace them, they just clean em and ship em out.

It should be ok as a winter weight, but if you live in the southern lattitudes, i'd think about changing it. If its colder than a rats rump roast outside right now, you'll be fine.

Good call on your math being better than mine

Will do, just have to design something up, and then figure out where to get them made if i can't do it myself

Go with the body lift, if you don't you're gonna over extend your axles and be breaking them really frequently. theres a reason everyone here goes with the 300 dollar kit, and doesn't go the cheap half rump roast route. go with the SJR or the PK Ozified, and i ensure you won't be dissapointed.

Since i've got my issues with the 5 lug swap, which i won't bore you with anymore, i've decided to upgrade the front suspension. Control arms will be threaded rod into aluminum solid stock so they are adjustable, from stock length ( incase its not the issue with the axles) and longer, so that i can try and get my camber in check. Onto the control arms will be the radius rod, which at Monstaru's suggestion will be the same on the front attachment point, but will feature some nice heim joints on the rear, so that they allow more flex. Why? why not? While i'm in there i'm gonna see if i can remove two of my main bearings, there causing a temporary space time vortex which makes me all tingly inside. :cool:

thats a pretty hot intake.

Use a large 5 lbs sledge on the back of the rim, its what we do at work. If its an alloy wheel, you might use a block of wood between the wheel and the hammer.

It could be that you do infact have a bad master cylinder, but since the piston is now in a different position its sealing better. Also, don't assume that you have to replace components if you have a mushy pedal, a brake bleed will do wonders.