Gravityman

uuummm, Eeerrrr...:-\ Well thats a good question that brings up a good thought, I need to call my mechanic. I am working on what I can occasionally. Since I just bought my house I need to remodel the kitchen in a big way. So in other words the project is mildly put on hold. When I get my engine back from the machine shop I can send it off to get cyro treated and get the rest of the head ceramic coated. I am getting sent away again with the military so that will postpone the project for a while longer. I am hoping that I will have the engine and all of its components running by the end of next year. Dont get me wrong it will take time to finish this project. I want to cover all of my bases and do every thing right.

I drew a 3d dimensionally accurate engine bay of the brat. The 4 inner bolts are where the brats crossmember mount to the frame. The 4 outer bolts are where the xt6's crossmember mount to the frame. So basically the bolts do mount farther appart. Also the width between the frame rails on the brat are obviously narrower then the xt6's. What I have to do is cut the frame rails and build them up on the outside closer to the wheels. It shouldnt be to hard with a cutoff wheel and a welder. I plan on adding on some additional material to add extra strength and help prevent frame twist at hard revs.

OOh I am patiant. I have been working on this project for about 3 years now. A am going to try to build it as "perfect" as I can which takes time!:slobber::-\:-\

Thats not a bad idea, its just trying to find some willing and that has enough time on their hands to go into that much depth. I will look on one of my websites and see if I can find something. Thanks for the insight

No junkyards?

ME TOO! I will see what my machinest says about this. The main thing about increasing the bolt diam. is to make sure that you can drill all of the old threads out and tap into a smooth hole. Hopefully this wont be a big deal.

I have been contenplating buying new head studs. The only way that i can do this affordably is to increase the blocks threaded diameter and find a set that will fit my engine. I know that ARP makes the shorter studs for about 8$ a pop with the washer and nut. Custom studs I think ran about $600 for the entire long set, way to expensive even for all that I am doing. I talked to some experts and read in a few books that if a head has 5 bolts per cyliner or more then it is not completly out of the question to run bolts instead of studs. The ER27 does have 5 per cylinder. Now that I think about it, what I might do is go to the junkyard and pull a few cylinder head bolts(1 or 2) from cars that I know have aftermarket studs and find something that will fit my head or something slightly longer. The search is on!!!

My machinest has a company locally that ceramic coats. I am getting my cryotreating done at 300below. They have been doing it for a while and seem to have it down. I would imagine that a cryotreated and ceramic coated head should be extreamly durable. I think all I have to worry about is cracking between the valves, Knock on wood! I was going to buy the hoist from SAMS club but when I got there the last one was being loaded away as I watched. I think this all might be overkill, you will probably agree. I want to build a SOHC motor that has the potential to run 300+ all day long on the street and track and be as durable as built STI motor. All the crap that I am doing is something that would be done to a 800HP drag car but I dont want to rebuild the motor and have to inspect the internals on a monthly basis. I would love to see another 100,000 miles on this engine with nothing more then an oil and coolant change with a few spark plugs. I want a car that is light weight, can handle extreamly well with good power numbers.

Well I am back for at least a few months before I get deployed again. I finally got a block... I pulled the one out of my running XT6 . The cool thing is I found out it has a bunch of things that are fairly new that I was going to have to buy which will save me about $400-$500. The block is in perfect condition and the machinist said that he should have everything done around the 15th of July (no hurry). So the project is back rolling! He is going to balance the entire rotating assy, cut the o-ring slots in the block, deck it, flow my heads and cut and tap holes into the oil mains for piston oil jets. When I get it all back I will be sending the conrods, pistons bearings and ported heads off to get cryotreated and then have the heads ceramic coated. Yea I am crazy! Me pulling the running ER27 in my new garage.

Does the exhaust smoke? if so what color? If it is white it is drinking coolant. It could be coming from one of 3 places that I can think of; either the headgasket which would $uck, a crack in your cylinder wall which would also suck, the other would be a break in the gasket between your intake manifold and your cylinder head where the coolant transfers from one head to the other. I would hope the third would be the guilty party its not too hard to replace. If you are just getting coolant loss and no oil mixture I would imaging it would be the gasket between the intake and head. Inspect that area on both sides of the engine and see if you can find a crack and mabe even a small leak. Do a compression check on all the cylinders. If you are low on one of them it might be a break in the head gasket. Good luck.

Sorry for the late response. I am waiting for a possible doner block since mine has really bad pitting. The machinist said either way; new block or replace sleeves is fine with him. He had already cleaned and honed the block and then he found the pitting to be bad. He did reassure me that if I did get a new block that he would clean and hone it without charging me double. I may be getting my balanced crank, rods, and pistons back this week. Once the heads are ported and flow tested I can send them off to the Cryo treater. I have been so envolved with tons of other things right now that it is hard to stay on track with one thing. My wife is due with our second child and might be going into labor this week, for sure monday next week(induction). On top of all of this we are getting ready to buy a house. STRESSED OUT!!! I am trying to keep on track lucky for me I have an understanding wife and a 4 year old daughter that already LOVES Subarus. She wants a pink STI rally car.

Think about this. 2 SVX motors with either 2 or 4 turbos mounted on it, probably 2 large turbos. Leave the compression ratio stock for really good low end and run about 4-5lbs of boost for middle and high end. Why stop with a F-8? Still sounds like fun though. The biggest thing is I need a car to put it in.

Yep I know they are the weak link, and yes they are getting treated along with the pistons, connecting rods and bearings also possibly the valves and springs. Thank you for the props.

I am glad someone else agrees with me!

I would imagine welding 2 engines together would be freaking awsome but in reality.... yea right! I would be externally coupling them together. 2 seperate oil pumps, water pumps, cams, yadda yadda yadda. They would be connected at the cranks. Yep they did with the 2.2 engine which would be about the same as this, 6.6

A 6.6 H6 would be the ultimate! But what would I drive it with? Has anyone used an STI trans on an SVX? So what I would do is take an SVX body, couple the engines together with whatever trans I can find remove the back window and cut the roofline to drop down a couple inches behind the driver and passangers seat, enough room for a roll cage. Then fiberglass the back to look similar to the Ferrari 512. Their engines were 4942cc's and made about 440 HP and 368 lb/tq I figure with our larger displacement (6.6L or 402ci) over their 4.9L or 301ci using their 1.46 bhp/cu in we could make about 590HP naturally asperated and about 490 lb/Tq. I am all over this like white on a red head! It would look something like this!! Some one needs to photo shop this!!! Just the roofline change not the rear end and tail lights, that all stays the same! THIS WOULD BE FREAKIN SWEET!!! Crunch these numbers! SUBARU SVX GENERAL: Front-engine, 4-wheel-drive coupe 2+2-passenger, 2-door steel body Base price $25,000/price as tested $28,250 ENGINE: 24-valve DOHC horizontally opposed 6, aluminum block and heads Bore x stroke 3.82 x 2.95 in (97.0 x 75.0 mm) Displacement 202 cu in (3317 cc) Compression ration 10.0:1 Fuel system sequential multipoint injection Power SAE net 230 bhp @ 5400 rpm Torque SAE net 224 lb-ft @ 4400 rpm Redline 7000 rpm DRIVETRAIN: 4-speed automatic transmission Gear rations (I) 2.79 (II) 1.55 (III) 1.00 (IV) 0.69 Final drive ratio 3.55:1 MEASUREMENTS: Wheelbase 102.8 in Track front/rear 59.1/58.3 in Length x width x height 182.1 x 69.7 x 51.2 in Curb weight 3525 lb Weight distribution front/rear 60/40% Ground clearance 5.3 in Coefficient of drag 0.29 Fuel capacity 18.5 gal Cargo capacity 8.2 cu ft SUSPENSION: Independent front, with damper struts, lower A-arms, coil springs, anti-roll bar Independent rear, with dapmer struts, dual lateral links, trailing links, coil springs, anti-roll bar STEERING: Rack-and-pinion, variable-power-assisted Turns lock to lock 3.1 Turning circle 35.4 ft BRAKES: Vented discs front Discs rear Anti-lock system WHEELS AND TIRES: 16 x 7.5-in cast aluminum wheels 255/50VR-16 Bridgestone Potenza RE71 tires PERFORMANCE (manufacturer's data): 0-60 mph in 7.6 sec Standing 1/4-mile in 15.6 sec Top speed 143 mph Pounds per bhp 15.3 EPA city driving 17 mpg Observed fuel economy 24 mpg Technical specifications of 1994 Ferrari F512 M bodywork Type 2S FHC Designer Pininfarina Number of doors 2 Viewing specifications of 1994 Ferrari F512 M dimensions & weight Wheelbase 2550 mm 100.4 in Track front 1524 mm 60 in rear 1651 mm 65 in Length 4480 mm 176.4 in Width 1976 mm 77.8 in Height 1118 mm 44 in Length:wheelbase ratio 1.76 Ground clearance Kerb weight 1455 kg 3208 lb Weight distribution (Front) 42.00 % Fuel capacity 110 litres 24.2 UK Gal 29.1 US Gal Go to more manufacturers or other Ferrari models Viewing specifications of 1994 Ferrari F512 M aerodynamics Drag coefficient 0.330 Frontal Area 1.87 m2 Cx 0.62 Viewing specifications of 1994 Ferrari F512 M engine Code Manufacturer Ferrari Type F-12 DOHC 48 valves total 4 valves per cylinder Main bearings 7 Construction alloy head & block Bore × stroke 82.00mm × 78.00mm 3.23 in × 3.07 in Bore/Stroke ratio 1.05 Displacement 4942 cc (301.579 cu in) Unitary capacity 411.83 cc/cylinder Compression ratio 10.40:1 Fuel system Bo 2.7 Motronic fuel inj. Aspiration Normal Compressor type N/A Intercooler None Catalytic Converter Y Max. output (DIN) 446.1 PS (440.0 bhp) (328.1 kW) @6750 rpm Max. torque (DIN) 499.0 Nm (368 lbft) (50.9 kgm) @5500 rpm Maximum rpm Coolant Water Specific output 89 bhp/litre 1.46 bhp/cu in Specific torque 100.97 Nm/litre Go to more manufacturers or other Ferrari models Viewing specifications of 1994 Ferrari F512 M performance Note: A value of -1 means that the car cannot attain that speed. 0-50mph (80 km/h) 3.30s 0-60mph 4.80s 0-100km/h 0-100mph 10.20s 80-120km/h (50-70mph) in top 0-Quarter-mile 12.70s @ 112.00 mph 0-Kilometre 22.70s @ 233.00 km/h Top speed 315 km/h (196 mph) Fuel Consumption 28.3/23.9/11.3 mpg UK 56mph/75mph/urban CO2 Emissions Power-to-weight 302.41 bhp/ton

Belive me I would love to be in CO right now. Colorado springs is my home when I am not in the military:eek:--:-\--. Its really only 1700 miles apart. I would get out of the military If I could find a job paying about $30/HR+ working on subaru's.

I have not done much research on EJ22's, do they have a good aftermarket? I would really like to see a EJ50!

I am not totally sure about this theory but a 4 cyl and a 6 cyl should be able to be coupled. An EA82 and ER27 both N/A would be able to be coupled. Both sets of internals and crank cams springs are all the same, no balance differences. The 2 engines when rotating together would power the entire rotating assembly the power would increase together with equal RPM. The only balancing you would have to deal with is rotational. This is why I think it would be cool to try. I would need a good running ER27 and EA82. I would not use both stock ECUs on both engines seperatly. I would use a MegaSquirt. Tell me It wouldn't be awsome to see an "EAR45"(EA82+ER27=EAR45)! That would be a 4.5L H10 I would love to see an EJ44 (EJ2.2 x 2)H8 or EJ50(EJ2.5 x 2) H8. I would like to see what that would do to the Ford 5.0! I told you that I am crazy! I might actually try this. Who wants to help?

Hey Subaru Freaks!! Here is a strange question for everyone. I was contenplating on my next project, although far away. I was thinking of coupling 2 engines together mounting it in the middle or rear of the car and running it off of a single trans via the front half shafts, it would be RWD. So here is the question. What engines should I use. Based off of power, ease of locating (readly avalible, in tons of junkyards), model similiarities ie ER27 and EA82, same internals. It could be a 4 cyl and 4 cyl coupled, a 4 cyl and 6 cyl, a 6 cyl and 6 cyl. What ever. Here are the engine choices let me know if I missed one. Here is the list. Model----HP----Torque EA-71 67 81 EA-81 73 94 EA-81T 95 123 EA-82 97 103 EA-82T 115 134 ER-27 145 156 EJ-22 130 137 EJ-22TT 160 181 EG-33 230 228 EJ-18 110 110 EJ-22 135 140 EJ-25 155 155 I would love to do an engine newer then this but $$$$$$$$$$$$ I dont have that many G's Unless I have sponser! Feel free to list newer engine models. I dont care if it is carbed, SPFI or MPFI let me know!

Well here is the next update. I am still practicing and testing. Today I finished one of the intake ports. I ground it as if the block was whole therefore I only used the space that the regular uncut head would allow me to use. Here is a pic of the intake port prior to porting. Mind you that this is not the actual intake port I ground but it is exactly the same as the one that I did. Notice the big indented lip on the bottom of the port and the sharp angles of the valve guide and the material around it. Also note the short side radius. Here is a pic after the porting. You can see that I have eliminated a large amount around the short side radius and the bottom lip as well as around the valve guide. I could also open up the flow around the sides of the valve guide and smooth the port floor to V/G transistion. The back of the valve guide was very difficult and very tight to get to. I plan on pulling out my dremmel and clean it up with a grinding stone. It should work. Next you can see the short side radius before I started the port. It was an easy pic to take, there was enough material there for the camera to focus on. Here is the post port short side radius. It is kinda blurry sorry. The hole in the port is where I drilled through the HLA bump into the port to see how much material I still had even after extensive cutting, about an 1/8 of an inch thick. My machinist said that as long as I keep it more then .100 inches in limited sections I will be ok. Its .125inch None of these pictures are of the final grind with the 80 grit sand paper so there and not as smooth. The intake should be ground with no more then 80 grit to help improve fuel atomization through minor turbulance.

Ok so here is my plan. Criticize away! I drew this up really quick so its not to scale in any way and the parts are not in the exact position but it will give you an idea of how I want to plumb the Dry Sump. Since I was first criticized for my original plans about running the pump off of an electric motor I decided to run a belt driven pump with a secondary electric pump. The belt driven pump will run durring all operations while the engine is started. It is ran off of the same pulley as the stock oil pump with an extension. The electric pump will be used to prime the engine and both turbos and to use with a turbo timer durring post cool down. This is how it will work. Before the car is started I will momentarily press a button that will turn on the electric oil pump for priming. The oil will flow from the rear oil tank through to a check valve, into the E-pump through another check valve into the oil filter -> oil cooler -> and then into a 3 way junction; 2 = each turbo and 1 = to the engine. This is the same path for cooldown but it will be ran by a turbo timer once ignition is terminated. The check valves prevent oil from going into the electric pump while engine is running and vice versa. Once the engine is started it will flow as so; The oil pump will scavange oil from the shallow dry sump pan via 2 hoses and from both turbos via a "T" junction. This oil will flow through the oil pump back into the oil storage tank. The oil will then be sucked from the oil tank and pumped through the oil pump -> through a check valve -> into the oil filter -> oil cooler -> 3 way junction; both turbos and engine -> oil sump pan. I really hope this is understandable. I have looked for many diagrams that discribed how to plumb turbos with a dry sump oil pump but no one has one. First here is a list of all the parts by their color. Yellow = Oil storage tank Grey = Sump pump Purple = Oil filter Green = Oil cooler Light Blue = Secondary oil pump Brown = stock oil pump with remote oil filter hookup Green w/blue band cylinders = oil check valves (blue band denotes direction of flow, blue band blocks oncoming flow) Dark blue = scavanging line Red = pressureized oil sending lines Circle turbo looking things on the side = turbos:-\ Triangular box under the oil pump = shallow dry sump pan ================================================================================== ================================================================================== ================================================================================== ==================================================================================

Not a bad idea. The only problem is the electric oil pumps are almost as expensive as the dry sump it self minus all the others parts required. :-\

I had an epiphany while jamming to some tunes on the way to work tonight. I have one of these moroso electric water pump motors that I purchased a little while back. I had no specific plans for it but I knew that I wanted to use it to run either the oil or water pump. Now it is obvious why I bought it. The second part of this epiphany was that I have always wanted to be able to primer my oil system prior to every startup that way I have less wear on the internals and no turbo oil starvation issues. This is nearly impossible with the oil pump hooked up directly to the timing belt. With It hooked up to an electric motor I will be able to start the oil flowing before the engine even starts up. As far as electric motor reliability goes I will have an oil pressure gauge in the car. I might even rig up a way to use the cybrid pumps electric motor to run the oil pump full time and keep the moroso motor on standby with a build in clutch. I also plan to run a fault detect; this would turn on the moroso motor and take over the oil pumps operation if it notices either a huge drop in oil pressure or if it notices a short or open in the cybrid pump. I will also rig up a electrical interupt that would keep the engines ignition from cranking if the oil or fuel is not turned on first or if I lose power to one of the systems. Also, obviously it would free up a few horsepower on the engine.

I think I follow that question, let me verify. When I start porting the uncut heads that I am putting on the car, will I have enough room in the port to move the carbide cutting burr around to get into the tight corners? Well, when I was working on them I tried to keep the carbides in the port opening as much as possible, I may have wondered out a few times. But for the most part, I really hope so! Does that answer your question?