Gravityman

Hence the problem with Chiltons, go FSM! BUT it will have 7.7:1 in the ER27......... :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: New Turbo pistons in from Subaru!!! complete with pins and clips!

replacing the pump, pressure sensor or guage?

Hey Subaru Freaks! I have another survey for you. What does your oil pressure guage read at idle and at max? Please state your engine model and year, N/A or turbo and whether or not your oil pump leaks. The reason I ask is I have noticed a lot of problems with the oil pumps leaking like crazy and wondered if It has to do with the oil pumps running at higher then normal pressure causing the oil pump seal to rupture. If the pumps run at a higher then normal(other make automobiles) pressure, I wonder if subaru did this intentionally to support a turbo system. Thank you very much for all of your replies!

About the ej22t jets, they are extreamly hard to find. Subaru doesnt sell them, you can only get them from a ej22t block, suck, and they are very rare if not impossible to find one with the jets still installed. As far as the power question n/a is about 145hp but we will see what it can make blown!!!

Yep, have it, already did... That is what sparked the interest. Max boost suggests to start with a .03in diam size hole for the jet. I am building a twin turbo ER27, the engine is going through a full rebuild/makeover. The oil jets are to cool the back of the piston from the added heat of the boost. This increases the life and durability of the piston. This also removes heat from the piston which normaly would cause predetenation. This is kind of what I was thinking of. (The bottom is actually the top of the block. So it will drain down the back of the piston.)

This is what I was thinking. I know that normally oil squirters have a pressure ball inside them but they are prone to falling out or coming loose. I want to drill a .03in diam hole into the main bearing oil journals on the piston side that will constantly spray oil at the back of the pistons. I think the oil pump should be fine and capable of handling the oil "leak". What do you think?

Has anyone bought a reman trans?

Cool keep them coming!!!

Whats up Subaru freaks. I didnt see a thread like this so here it is. Here is a question for every one that has had and or delt with a 5 speed 4WD manual trans from the XT or XT6. I dont care about stuff like clutch failures or throwout bearings going bad, all I want to know is how well your transmission alone has held up to the amount of miles and abuse that you have thrown at it. IE.. Bigger tires, stronger clutches, power adders, gear ratio changes, engine/trans swaps, offroading, road racing etc... Tell me what you have done to the car that would adversly effect the transmission, how many miles you have on the trans or one in the past and how it has weathered your abuse. State whether you have a Selective 4WD or Full time 4WD . Also, If you have had problems how hard was the fix or how expensive? Thank you all

Funny you mention that, I am doing just this but for my ER27. Already have the copper head gasket custom built. Brand new pistons will be here tomarrow or wednesday. The pistons, rings, valves and head will be getting cryo-treated and ceramic coated and moly coating on the piston skirts. The cyl block is getting o-ringed (its at the machine shop right now). Heads are getting ported. Trying to source a set of studs but might have to stick with bolts.....Need I go on? I hate to say that I am trying to set a new benchmark. BUT I know that I will not be able to accomplish this without everyones support. Thanks! I pick H - Turboing a 7.7-1 will be 8.0-1 not high compression but plan on making it last MORE then 2 years before any major maintnance issues. When i say major i mean minor issues.

what?

The XT6 does so i am sure the EA82 does as well.

So let me get this strait. I know you used the hubs from the impreza but how about using the front and rear hubs from an XT6? I am very intently looking to blow a wad of cash on a set of coilovers from my XT6.

Hey Subaru Freaks! I was wondering with all the new cam grinds for highly tuned N/A and Turbocharged EA82T and ER27's has any one upgraded to stiffer valve springs? After thought; Along with this has anyone found any titanium or aftermarket retainers or valve spring locks?

Hey Subaru Freaks! I dont know how many of you have seen this but I thought that it is awsome to see that anything is possible when you really apply yourself. This is the World’s Fastest Model A. The cool thing is it is running a modified Inline Subaru 4 valve DOHC head from a WRX mounted to a 831 Roadster. Its about time some one in the out dated land of the american big blocks finally see that ohc engines are far superior to push rod motors. http://www.aardemasohc.net/index_files/Page743.htm

The only chip is MegaSquirt:banana:

Just Relax first, Before you jump to any conclusions take a more detailed look to find out what is actually wrong. Pull out the studs first. The exhaust is held in by studs not bolts (Basically a threaded rod with a nut that you tighten on after threaded into the head). Check and see if they stripped, if so order some new ones from subaru or an oem manufactuer. Check the holes the studs came out of and see if they are stripped. If the holes are stripped you will probably want to drill and retap the hole the next larger size and then buy a new stud and bolt to fit. Remember that these studs rust easily due to the heat and failure is not uncommon. Good luck! If you have a picture that you can post, please do. Thanks

I was having this same issue with my brat and my legacy. I swapped out the front bearings and it fixed it a little. I then pulled the rear wheel off and found that the rear wheel bearing was really bad. I did not swap that one due to I have totally gutted the car for a full restoration, but I am almost positive that this would have fixed the problem. I thought it was the cv but it was good. Infact I replaced just about every thing on the front pass side suspension due to this problem. It originally sounded like it was coming from the front and back, now just the back. I have not done anything to fix the legacy but i am sure the bearing is shot, no squealing just sounds like a clunky grind sound. CHECK THE BEARINGS-- The best way to find out if something is bad is get under the car and look.

The sales that go on at the end of the year are to clear out old new stock. The companies are trying to make room for the new 07 models.

To some it looks like a mess, to others its a sign of progress. Mine is a mess (progress on hold). Very cool, Is the top removable? What parts from the XT6 are on the brat?

As far as the injectors go, do what ever you need to swap them try to do it without removing extra parts and if you cant get to them then follow the manual. But keep in mind that injecters dont normally go bad to the point that you have to replace them. The only time you can visually check to see if they need replaced is when they are leaking from the plastic housing, if they are not leaking and your car is running ok with good/normal gas milage then just clean them. I would run some lucas injector cleaner through them first. This might help, I hope so. About the sensor in the intake, you can test the sensor with a digital multimeter and refer to you manual to see if the sensor is good. If your car is running and you are getting good gas mileage then it is probably working. If the mass air flow sensor (MAF) which is what I assume that you are talking about is bad your car probably will NOT run. NEVER CLEAN YOUR MAF WITH CARB CLEANER!!! There is only one kind of cleaner for MAFs, this stuff is brand new, use this. It will probably increase fuel efficency, power, idle and stumbling etc... Here look this stuff up.

Where did you find that pic?

Cool guys thanks for all the tips. I will see if this will work. I do have the door on and when I close the window with the door closed the window will close properly, no wind noises at 90mph:grin: . When the door is open and I roll the window up it goes way past the point it needs to stop. I will try to do the adjustment and let you all know how it turns out. Thank you for the input!

Whats up Subaru Freaks I have an 05 Legacy Wagon. My front drivers side door was hit and I started to put a new door on that I got from the junk yard. I was pretty mad that they cut the wireing harness that added about an hour to the project, oh well. This is my issue, I have the "new" door on and every thing on the door itself is working properly, the striker is matching up ok and all the lines are matching. The thing is the window on this door seems to roll up to far. When you roll up a normal window, when it gets to the top it will slide back a little. This window goes back way to far and touches the black bar on the B pillar when you close the door. Does anyone know of a way to adjust the window so it does not go up so far? Any reply may help. PLEASE! Thank you all!

So how does this helical run? Any notable differances from what you had in the car before the swap? Was it worth the swap? Excellent work!