Gravityman

This might sound retaded. because i am deployed I cant view this pic from photo bucket. Could someone copy it and post it in their picture album and then link it. I can view pics from our forum but PB is blocked. THanks!

yep... We know. Not a problem, its all dedicated to keeping our old jelopies on the road.

Whats up! For the most part as long as they are the same type injector sidefeed or topfeed injector and all of the stamped part numbers are the same there should be no problem. They should look exactly the same. Make sure that the engine is the same as yours ie. turbo or N/A. I think they only made 3 sets of injectors for that engine. turbo, twin turbo and N/A (correct me if I am wrong).

If you are having a problem with the heads and think they might be warped, go to a machinist and have them take a look at them. All they may need to do is deck the block and heads to give you a true surface. not very expensive, cheaper then new or good used heads.

Whats up buddy. I am about 3 hours from you. I have an 84 brat. I just pulled my Dual Range manual trans and engine to drop in the ER27 twin turbo. I am looking at selling it. I also have experiance swaping auto to manual (Nissan SR20DET) never the less it was a swap. If you want to talk let me know. I know it is far but it would be fun to do the trans swap. Heads are easy, do it when you swap the trans. Rust, Kill it fast and seek it out everywhere and distroy it all. If you dont get rid of it all it will just keep coming back.

The simple answer to that question is you obviously have a problem and you have a leak somewhere. (I guess the HG, only if it is white smoke comeing from the exhaust, more to come on that reasoning) Pull the motor and take off the heads, at that point you can check for both cracked or blown. Both can be fixed. The HG would be the easiest, buy a new HG and head bolts. The head can be either repaired or buy a new or used one. If it is cracked it will normally be between the intake and exhaust ports. In this case you could call around to machine shops and price someone that is capable in repairing cracked aluminum heads (it requires the heads to be cleaned, the valve seats removed, welding the damaged area, remachining the port and valve seat carrier, reinstallation of the valve seat.) I would imagine between $200-300 hopefully cheaper. Ok now back to . The reason I suspect the HG is because, even if the head were to crack between the valves, the crack does not usually extend far enough down the port to reach the coolant passages. A blown HG is more common and a weaker link then the cylinder head. FYI... If you are spewing WHITE smoke you have a coolant leak. Grey is an oil leak which could be either your piston rings, HG, Head crack (rare) or your turbo gaskets (most likely suspect if you have an original unrebuilt turbo) have flown south and craped out on you. I would try this step first if you have grey smoke coming from the exhaust, sorry for jumping around. For the turbo you can check this by removing the pipe between the turbo compressor exducer and your engines intake. stick your finger in the turbo and inspect the hose you just removed for oil residue. If there is any, your turbo is the problem. rebuild it if possible, I say just buy a bigger one. If this doesnt fix the problem then proceed with the engine. It is normal for a turbo with 20 years of wear and tear to be shot, it sucks but is normal. I have done some deconstructive cylinder head research to see exactly how deep the cracks really go. Mind you, this is from an ER27 although it is identical to the EA82 head just minus one cylinder. Notice "this" crack did not reach the coolant passage, although it is possible. More on this thread for some information to your question. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71766 Good Luck (GL) to you. I hope this helps you out a little. I may have left something out but it will give you some direction. Scott

Im down for one! I want to see the pics

Thats cool I plan on reinforcing parts of the engine bay anyway. I know it will be a tight fit. +2 intercoolers

I am getting the heads and exhaust ceramic coated and cryo treated. The intake and exhaust are getting ported and polished. If it is the head gasket you are worried about I have a one off copper head gasket fully rubber coated to prevent leaks. To complement the copper head gaskets I have also O-ringed the block. The new pistons have been ceramic coated and moly coated with a oil jet added to spray and cool the piston. As far as the timing belt goes... we will see. I am replacing the belts with new ones as well as the pulleys and tensioners. The only way I could see the belts become a weak link is at really high RPM's. The amount of power the motor turns wont affect the belts unless it jerks the hell out of them. If I run that engine up to 9000 revs then I would be worried. Also, If the belts do spin off there should be plenty of clearance between the piston and valves to prevent contact. Rotating parts should only be affected by speed of rpms not power provided to them. The headlights... I dont know, we will see. I am planing to rework the entire body and the front clip most likely will be in the plan also. As far as how much boost I am going to be running, I want to run the engine in first before giving it too much boost. I plan on about 5-7psi for the breakin period as long as it gives me enough power to get around. On a twin turbo I think it will be enough, 2 turbo's = High CFM's at nominal psi.

Oh I forgot, What are you droping in and into what?

I would say if you can get the engine to a wash rack or a pressure washer, cover all the holes to prevent ANY water or cleaner in. Get some carb cleaner, a green non-metalic scotch brite pad and some simple green. Soak it in carb cleaner and scrub with pad then go over it with some simple green scrub a little more, change pad often they are cheap. Then rinse it with the pressure washer. Make sure the cleaners soak in to the grease. Then go home and spray it with alcohol wipe it down and dry with compressed air. I hope you have the means to do this, I think you do. It should clean it up good. GL Scott

Thats a good question. How much power do you think an ER27 could make with a fully custom built engine best internals / externals and turbocharged with custom ECU? I guess what I am asking is how much power do you think that engine can handle?

Come on guys, there are all kinds of mods out there for the XT6, you just have to fabricate them yourself! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72535 Really though, Its all about how much money you have to throw around, and what you feel you can accomplish. The nice thing is there are alot of parts that are interchangable between the 2 engines. If you go turbo you can swap between a few different pistion CR's. Most of your mods will be custom. GL Scott

In a few months but cant really say when I will be home. I do have the bench and I plan on upgrading it for better accuracy. I finally got my block back from the machinist so I am very close to reassembly. There is still a bunch of stuff to buy and I am not sure when it will be running. I am completly remodeling my kitchen when I get home so AGAIN funds will be low. Sorry, (tangent) about the injectors the worst you can do is try them. If I am not mistaken the ones off of the 280zx turbo should mount directly to the EA82 motor. With the RRFPR you should be good for a nice little kick in the pants.\ GL Scott

I am looking into getting a truck soon to haul around my crap. I was wondering what truck some of you sooby drivers own out there? Do you like the truck or is there a different model you would want?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&page=7 Check out this thread. I did a lot of testing with various injectors(not completly finished yet) As I can remember the 280zx turbo injectors flow about 255cc/min where the stock XT turbo injectors flow about 225cc/min. It is a decent increase in flow over stock especially over stock injectors. If you intercool the engine you can easily increase the injector size and boost for a good power increase. Also, you mentioned the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, they are good but only when you are getting the exact air in to run stoich. At idle you will run rich and at really high rpms you could run lean. I would suggest a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It increases fuel pressure in sequence with air pressure. If you tune it correctly its awsome! I covered it a little in that thread. GL

Sweet buddy thanks. I totally forgot about the orfices. I will check them. I do have that same diagram but it is a huge pain in the you know what to follow when you are humped over a car, the sun is beating on your head and the wind keeps flipping your pages. Again thanks!

bump PLEASE!!!

bump

Non-cali, its from virgina. Cool I will try the spray! Still Need Pics!!!

Ok. My friend has an 85 carbed hitachi EA82 Wagon. He has been having trouble with the hose lines and where they all go. We have tried just about every configuration but cannot get an idle to stick. We have tried 2 carbs. I need SOMEONE ANYONE to post some good high RES pictures of the entire vacuum setup from all angles. The FSM and Chiltons suck big time! Please Please Please!!! :confused: :mad:

ditto on the chemo! It would be great to meet up with you later, just let me know the time and I am there! Thanks!

Thanks buddy! I hate to say this but I wont be able to work on this again for about 5 months, work reasons. I am really bummed about it! Once I get back I should be able to get this thing up and running. I dont mind if you come out and check it out, I'd be honored but mabe sometime after February. I still need the heads ported and flowed and new cams. I think I am going to be powdercoating the whole engine. It still has barnicals all over it. I am going to have to sandblast it all off and P/C it. I am still far from turning the engine over unless someone wants to send about 5K my way.

I thought you wanted an update. Thanks

Did I say that it was going to be a slow process? Sorry about the delay guys and gals. Here is the list; Ground and polished Rods Cleaned block and heads Brand new turbo pistons, ceramic coated piston tops & Moly coated skirts Resurfaced heads and block O-ringed block Honed block Balanced pistons on rods Checked and polished Crank Balanced entire rotating assy Drilled piston oil jet holes Here are the shots!! O-ringed, Honed, cleaned and decked block! So pretty!!! Coated pistons mocked in the block! Cylinder side of the oil jets Crank Journal side of oil sprayers Balanced and polished conrod and piston Crankshaft still in plastic, polished and balanced I told you I was working on it. Let me know what you think!!!