Gravityman

Figured thats why it was in quotes. OK WHERE DID THE XT XT6.NET FORUM MOVE TO? I cant belive they took it down.

The "crank angle sensor" is actually the cam angle sensor, there is no real crank sensor on an ER27. I had a similar problem on my ER27. It went from driving just fine to bearly holding idle and then dying. I got it home checked the ecu it was flashing. I found out that it was the coolant temp sensor connector. It is kinda hard to get to but pull off the electrical connector and check for corrosion on both connectors. Clean them good, reset the ECU by removing the negative battery cable and try starting it again. This might help if it IS the problem. GL Scott

$ent as well! Can't wait!

Wow! Its cool to see how much stuff (junk) you can fit in these, and whats even more intriguing how often people do it. Cool Keep em coming!

I hate to say this but this is more or less trial. I have been looking for the oil squirters that mount it the Turbo EJ20 & EJ22. These are fairly small holes, about .03 inch dia., I zoomed in close, so it looks bigger then you would think. I cannot find the sprung jets anywhere. If you have any clue let me know. Yep the exhaust ports, combustion chambers and on valve faces. I dont think I want to do the entire deck face, I would imagine that keeping that uncoated will help transfer heat away from the block, it could be bad for intake temps but hopefully that wont matter that much. I cant remember the cam specs, I think I posted them somewhere. I would imagine Deltacam would be able to tell you the specs. It took me quite a while to get to this point, trying to get it all right! GL Scott

Whats up Subaru Freaks! I want to see all of your pictures with your soob loaded up with whatever. Can someone top this much stuff being hauled by your roo and actually be able to drive? So I snapped this picture driving out to 11 mile canyon (CO) last year but just got around to posting it. Fess up if it was you driving. I dont think I have ever seen so much stuff cramed onto a brat, AMAZING. Scott

Can someone post that picture on USMB photos and repost it in this forum. I am deployed and I cant view pictures from photo bucket. EXTREAMLY FRUSTRATING!!! Thank you guys!

I am about 6000miles from home so I am answering this off of memory. I belive the ring lands are the same from N/A to turbo pistons (EA and ER block) I have a picture of a side by side comparison of the 2. When I bought my piston rings I could not find a different part number between a turbo and N/A piston set. The CR can be affected by a few things It might be the piston dish volume, head gasket thickness, not sure. I know that the crown volume is what drops the CR for the Turbo piston. This is a pic of an N/A ER27 (same as the EA82) piston cut in half. This is a picture of an EA82 turbo piston that I drew in almost exact detail and cut it in half to show you how they are constructed. I think I screwed up on the oil ring land, the aluminum is built up a little more closer to the bottom of the piston. This is the bottom of my balanced turbo piston. I hope some of this helps. If you would like to see more pictures check out my albums. I have some good pics in there.

Agreed, lets go, "snap snap"!

Wow, I cant belive there was a argument over TDOHC. HILARIOUS!! Anywho, If you want some visual information about the EA82 head I have the ER27(same head +1 cylinder) that I hacked up. Hope this helps a little. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71766

Before anything pull the oil pan and take a look and see if you find any metal parts. Take a picture and post them. This will give us a better look at what is REALLY wrong. The best way to do this is by using a metal mesh strainer (My wife would kill me but I would tell her it will save us money in the long run, diagnosis purposes) and pour the oil from the oil pan in and sift out the metal parts(if any). Take a picture of the damaged parts. I love seeing broken stuff as long as it isnt mine! GL Scott

You are so deep gross! soooo deeep!

If I were you I would source an engine your self. I am sure you can find one at a local junkyard that they pulled and sat on a shelf, especially around colorado. That should save you money if you buy one. On the other hand if you have tools and time I would suggest pulling the head off yourself. If the head is trashed then you have nothing to lose and tons on knowledge to gain (If you have not done anything like this before. Its not a hard project by any means. Just crack open a cold one and start pulling parts. (follow a repair manual, prefered). GL Scott

Bet him a swap. If it fits you get the STI motor!:cool: . . . . Hopefully it fits Good luck! Scott

UUm all the spark plugs wires are hooked up to... not the spark plugs, you dont have an air filter, you are missing your turbos, someone stole your intercooler, your "I love dirt" sticker fell off the fender, Your hood is invisable, someone jacked your webber and put a hitachi in when you werent looking, :confused: I'm comfused. Did I win?

If you like you can get a blinking light on the dash, It would at least look cool. Tell eveyone that is a...light that indicates full boost! Cool:banana:

The knock sensor Is used by the engine to retard or advance timing to prevent knock and keep the engine running at top performance and helps keep your fuel consumption at a leaner state. If you want to keep an eye on when you car knocks you can get a knock light. For the most part only highly tunes or custom cars would be the only ones that would need them. Unmodified stock cars, it would be pointless. Since I did build my one engine and ecu I plan on getting everything I can to keep an eye on every aspect of how the engine is running, ie. guages, knock light and so forth.

Yep agreed. I am installing a new knock sensor and I will only be starting boost levels at 5-7, that with a CR of 7.7:1 I should be fine for knock. I hope. Yes I cant wait to crank the boost!

2 turbo are in the realm of the unknown for the ER27. If it can be done I want to do it. 2 turbos will feed the same amount of pressure but faster and at a higher cfm. I am building it the best I can to be able to handle the power. All I can say is "WE WILL SEE". As for the coatings I have coated the pistons with ceramic and moly. The heads will be getting the same ceramic coating. On the outside of the engine I MIGHT powdercoat, I havent looked into to deep yet.

My door is open as well! The tranny has 130K on it 4spd dual range and runs like glass (not broken). I havent had any probs with it. I only pulled it to drop in the Twin turbo and 5 MT box. I do know the drive shafts are a different length. I do still have the drive shaft as well. When I get home we can talk and if you want to stop by and check them out we can talk numbers. When I get home I will send you a picture. Anywho, keep in touch. I need to get back to work. GL Scott

Wow thats pretty jacked up. I am sure it will at least last 5 mins and rev to at least 3000 revs. Be positive. What are you talking about coating the engine?

Actually I am going to tig weld them back together when I am done. It is a new method of porting "explode porting". Are the heads in good condition? I have 2 sets of heads right now but, since I am doing so much experimental things going on with the engine I might need a 3rd set. So, I am not hard up but how much.

Thanks for the info. You are correct about you can only learn so much by pictures. This is why I started this project, enhance my knowledge of the engines, practice porting methods, learning flow and how to improve it. I have learned so much just from hacking this "chuck of aluminum" that most could only dream of. As for this project, It has been put on hold along with the rest. Shortly after I started I bought a house and started "moding" remodeling, and then got deployed:headbang: . So when I get home I will have tons more time to fiddle with all my projects and mabe get this motor running twin turbo running. again thanks Scott

Thanks buddy!

Well If you have the tools it will probably be easier. Every subaru head I have removed I have pulled the engine. Refer to the chiltons or FSM and see what it recommends. GL Scott