Gravityman

Well 3-4 hours drive isnt as far as a 3-4 day drive from NC but all the same I understand. Truthfully compared to Eastern NC, Colorado seems to be like a metropolis of old school soob owners! I've seen your turnout for the Colo meets and that is freaking sweet! I get excited to just meet up with one soob owner! Anywho, I am going and anyone that wants to join me is more then welcome!!!

I guess I can fight this one to death but without an EJ FW I am not going to get anywhere. I have overcome engineering larger then this in the past. I will get a FW from the junk yard and see if modification to any or all parts might make it work. But until then I will take your word for it. Thanks for all of your help! :-\ SUCKS!

If using the N/A EJ flywheel could you build a spacer that mounts between the engine and flywheel which would bring the EJ flywheel up to where the EA ring gear runs, essentially creating the step in the EJ FW. Correct me if I am wrong, Is the reason the EJ flywheel wont fit in the bell housing is because there are too many obstructions for where it would mount to the motor or it wont fit in the bell housing at all. I hope i am being clear with this theory. Below is an ER flywheel to scale and an EJ that is totally guesstemated, but it works either way. You could drill hole in the EJ flywheel for it to match the ER/EA bolt pattern(in reverse like in an EJ engine swap). Then mount the spacer that would mount between the ER/EA engine and the EJ FW. The spacer will space the wheel out to where the ring gear will meet the stock ER/EA ring gear possition. Change the gears on the starter to accept the ring gear if needed. The only way this may not work is if the diam of the Ring gear is to large or small or the clutch will be pushed out too far to allow the fork to work properly. Just a guess, since I dont have an EJ FW to look at.:-\

Yep I have had the same problem, EA clutch and an EJ Torque converters only. IIRC the EA starter is up top and the EJ is on the bottom of the bell. Does anyone have an EA and EJ flywheel sitting around to do some quick measurment comparison checks? Teeth count Diameter Thickness Mounting holes from center of one hole to the opposite hole center lenth. Spline count on clutch disks. Anything else that might differ. Flywheel Stock Weight with and without clutch. I have this info for my ER27, I can get it all posted tomorrow. I just need the info for the EA and EJ. I imagine that most people might think this is barking up an ugly tree but I still need to satisfy my aspiration. Thanks for who ever helps out

Hey Subaru Freaks!! RALLY COLORADO September 12-14 2008 I am traveling from North Carolina to Colorado to go to Rally Colorado, so no excuses for distance. I was wondering who would be up for having a HUGE meet for the rally. I am putting this out here early so people can clear their calenders and make time for the race and Meet and Greet!! If you have never been to a rally now is the time! They are so much fun! I would love to coordinate everything but I am so far away. Is there anyone willing to set up the festivities? I am not a sit down guy, I will hike or 4 wheel to the best vantage point of the race to get the best and closest action. I hope there are others up for the same fun. Lets get this started! http://rally.subaru.com/event_2008_colorado_info.html Thursday, September 11, 2008 2 - 5 PM Competitor/Service Crew Registration Howelsen Hill Lodge 3 - 7 PM Scrutineering Cook Chevrolet/Subaru Friday, September 12, 2008 AM - 5 PM Practice Stage Open TBA 9 AM - 2 PM Competitor/Service Crew Registration Howelsen Hill Lodge 10 AM - 3 PM Scrutineering Cook Chevrolet/Subaru 3 - 8 PM Volunteer Registration Howelsen Hill Lodge 5:30 PM - 7:30 PM Welcome Reception & Parc Expose Downtown Steamboat Saturday, September 13, 2008 8:01 AM First Car Out, Day 1 Tennis Meadows Parking Lot 6 PM First Car In, Day 1 Tennis Meadows Parking Lot 6 - 8 PM Parc Ferme Slopeside Grill 6 -8:30 PM Volunteer Appreciation Party Slopeside Grill Sunday, September 14, 2008 9:01AM First Car Out, Day 2 Tennis Meadows Parking Lot 3:45PM First Car In, Day 2 Tennis Meadows Parking Lot 6:30PM Awards Party Sheraton Steamboat Resort

Go get your money back! Cheap B@$T@RD$!

I am in Goldsboro NC. About 1.5 hours from the border.

Actually I want to see the interior pics before you are complete. I want to see what everything looked like close up of where you cut out the rear wall/window. PLEASE

Whats up subaru freaks! Ok so, a question for the smart guys. I know the bolt design on the EJ and EA/ER's are different. With redrilling the bolt holes in an EJ Flywheel, will an EJ Fly and clutch fit in an ER27? What are the differences between the outer diameter of the Flywheels and number of teeth? Also, if the diameters are the same but there are a diffrent amount of teeth could you just swap the starter or the starter gear from the starter itself to make it work? BASIS: The power between the EJ and ER are close to the same at stock but I would imagine due to the aftermarket built for the EJ the transmission and clutch were engineered to hold a higher TQ and HP number. I know they make lightened flywheels and staged clutches for the EJ but only Staged clutches for the ER(minimally). What I want to do is drop in (with obvious modifications) an EJ lightened flywheel and stage 2 or 3 clutch into my ER27 full time 4WD trans. Something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-94-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2-TURBO-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33730QQihZ009QQitemZ190189788080QQtcZphoto Plausable?

That is freaking AWSOME!!! I was thinking/planning on doing something similar to that. CAN you PLEASE post bigger pictures of the first few small pictures you posted? Also, please take a few more of the interior. I am curious as to how the inside looks. AWSOME!

Correct. The factory will keep the stock fuel pressure and the RRFPR when under boost will basically back up the fuel line causing fuel pressure to increase. The pic I pasted shows how I have it setup. I will draw up the exact fuel flow in the morning for how the flow runs. but basically; fuel pump - filter - injectors - stock regulator - RRFPR - return to surge tank or whatever. The boost or vaccum signal is split 3 ways; one to the boost guage, one to the RRFPR and the other to the stock FPR.

Those are nice! a little pricey but nice and they have everything I want. Do the 05 legacy's have the same knuckle style as the XT6? Also, I am curious as to the differences between the Brat, XT6 and Legacy's stock spring rates. I see that the ones for megan are 6 kg front and 8 kg rear. I wonder how that would feel on the brat which would be tons lighter then the legacy. I bet it would be like driving on rails. What about KYB? What about the A arm Idea? I thought I saw someone fab up one out of tube steel but cant remember where I saw that. Would that be better then going with the control arm and tension rod? I was also thinking that using the stock XT6 sway bar with the larger diameter would be sufficiant.

Ok for every lb of boost the fuel pressure will raise incrementally with it. So, at no boost your F PR should be about 43psi. With a 1:1 ratio the fuel pressure will increase 1 psi per lb of boost. at 1:2 ratio, your fuel pressure will increase 2 psi per pound of boost. And so on and so forth. If you keep the boost at stock levels and the RRFPR at 1:1 then you should have no problems. I built a fuel injector flow bench with my RRFPR. I started flowing injectors with the RRFPR to test a few injector with higher fuel pressures to see what flow rates I could get out of them and if they would work on my ER27TT. I hooked up a boost guage and my air compressor as a source of artificial boost which was regulated with an adjustable air valve. If you dont have yours setup right now, make sure you use your stock FPR inline before your RRFPR in order to keep your stock fuel pressure. Also, make sure your hose clamps are VERY TIGHT! When I jumped the boost, the added fuel pressure started bursting the lines off of the injectors, so make sure all your lines are very tight! You dont want a fire! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&page=7&highlight=flow+bench

Whats up Subaru Freaks! Down to the point: ER27 engine and entire suspension swapped into an EA81 Brat with any upgrades possible. Question: With no worry about metal fabrication seperate of cast materials (ie. stock xt6 knuckle), What do you think would be the ultimate suspension setup under an super fast EA81? Elaboration: As you all know I am building a ER27TT. My plans are to remove the entire stock suspension system from the Brat, this includes; Control arms, sway bars, stabilizer/bracket, transverse link, torsion bar..yada yada. What I want to keep for the base to build up from will be the ER27s fulltime 4wd trans, halfshafts for the 5 lug and the knuckles. On the rear I have a VLSD R160. Goal: I want to modify whatever I can on the stock xt6 suspension in order to upgrade it. I would love to build a custom transverse link that would look more like one out of an Impreza (lower A arm) to help increase strength and stability. As far as the struts go, anything that I could wrap around an ER27 steering knuckle, I dont care if I have to spread the lower strut mount or grind down the xt knuckle (minor modifications here are acceptable). Modifing the upper strut mounts (front and back, within plausable means) is totally acceptable as well. I want a fully adjustable suspension front and back, adjustable height and dampening. I want upgraded bushings all around. I want to keep the price of the Struts as low as possible. I know I can get cought up with $2000 struts but something like KYB AGX with adjustable coilovers would work just as well. Nitty-Gritty: When all is done I want a suspension under the Brat with an XT6 foundation with its increased wheel base, 5 lug and 5 speed full time 4WD that is fully adjustable and extreamly durable! I want to flog it and have no problems at the end of a rough day. Your input: What do you think would work for this setup? Examples. Also, what do you think? Shoot links if you have seen anything similar on a soob. Thank you for your input!

The problem is it is not an exact science. The only way to really know is to hook up an O2 guage and test with it at different settings. If the engine was already a turbo you should set the boost at the same as stock and slowly work your boost up along with your RRFPR to what ever your desighered boost is. Keep a keen eye on your O2 guage keeping it close to stouich. That should do the trick.

Seriously Scott you suck! I just bought a plate about 2 weeks ago for $40 more then you are selling them for and it does not have that pitch stopper! Crap I wish I knew about this 2 weeks ago! On the other hand, Your plates look BA! just powdercoat them, increase the price and you have a sweet product!

I hate to say that I am getting ready to buy a 2004 Grand Cherokee Outlander. My first car I ever owned was a 1994 GC larado. I want to buy a newer Subaru but with my family is getting bigger and with the price for newer subarus (dont loose value) it is hard to find one in my price range. This brings me to a point, Subaru needs to expand its Line. It is nice that they went to the tribeca, even the forester is a little to small for me. The problem is the Tribeca is way out of my price range, or I would buy one. I am military and my wife is a homemaker with 2 daughters, it is hard keeping up. I guess what I will do is buy the Jeep and then wait for the next gen of subaru to come out (turbo-hybred) and get one of them. In the mean time I still have 3 old school roos and have no plan but to beef them up and keep them running well past the Jeep.

Can you add some pics of what you did on the interior? Thanks buddy! Looks good!

And fall to pieces!

Ok.. yea.. thats right I forgot about that. There is a brat in my local junkyard back home. I will go and check out the construction deconstructively and see if it is at all possible. This sucks, putting a damper on my fun. Let me think about this for a min.

I would imagine that the seat has a lot to do with it. But I need to keep in mind the roll cage, harness as well as the trying to move as much of the weight as I can to the back of the car. If I can find a good racing seat that will fit with the back wall moved back to the farthest extent (about 6") that the unmodified roof will allow, I figure I can drop in the cage and be comfortable driving at higher speeds with no problem. As far as the grafting, I am not lenthing the car just extending the interior of the cab. I will need to cut around the wall on the bed side and remove the additional metal to slide it back and weld it. On the interior I will have to graft some metal to the inside to fill the void. Instead of using old metal I plan on buying new steel, painting it with weldable primer to prevent rust on the inside of the panels. Another question comes to mind, What about the seats in the back of the brat? Well even though I am trying to lighten the brat as much as possible, and I know everyone removes the rear seats on the interior of the car when racing, but I think I am going to lower them and keep them in. The seats in the back are an iconic feature to the Brat. Removing them is like taking part of its soul. The only problem is I have to make room for the 2 seats, a radiator, battery and a fuel cell. For the most part I dont think it will be that big of a deal.

Whats up Subaru Freaks! Ok, So I am 6' 3" tall and the 1984 Brat was built specifically for the 1980 Japanese Male/Female population that averaged 5'2"/5'0" tall respectivly. So if you can imagine, I max out the total usable space in the drivers seat. The problem arises when breaking, steering and heal-toe shifting where my knees and hands ofter come in contact and cause erronious inputs to the car which disrupt my driving flow. Well, I am working on a plan for the brat. I want to take the entire rear window/wall assy and move it backwards approx. 6"-12". This should not only give me additional room when I move the seat back, but will also allow me to install a roll cage and move the center of gravity back a little so the front of the car is not SO heavy with 2 turbos and a 6 banger and my fat a$$. I plan on removing the original seats and dropping in nice light weight racing seats with a 4 or 5 point harness, I just dont see that happening as is. Has anyone tried anything like this? I want to try to do this and make it look like it never did (factory). I have it somewhat planned in my head with what I want to do. I HATE crap that was chopped and then ducktaped back together. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Scott

That would be AWSOME!!.....and A LOT of polishing!!! The turbos will be polished also. Cool polished Aluminum block fading to a Translucant Black at the valve covers with a Carbon Fiber intake manifold SICK!!! I need a voting button for this one. It will give me something to do while I am waiting for money to fall from heaven! Have you ever polished something to a high shine? Very time consuming!

Those are all cool ideas, my only problem is that I have already put a ton of money into this to go back and change the pistons. I already have new valves in and ex. I would love to find a lighter set but the aftermarket for the XT is very low.. none! I like the Idea of the harley valves but I am not going to be the first to try them. I do plan on getting the backs of the exhaust valves coated as well. As far as the squirters I talked to a friend that talked to his nissan friend and he said that all KA series nissan engines had the squirters. I have not seen this for my own eyes but a junkyard near my house has tons of KA's, that will be the first place I look, cheap and not overpriced! I am very hesitant to get my block ground any lower then what it is at, I already had it milled flat. I havent been able to find a cam pulley that matches with mine or someone to build me one of high strength billet alu. for a good price. The CR is probably a little closer to about 8.0 now that the surfaces were milled. The thing is running 2 turbos into the engine I am going to see a higher CFM rate quicker then If I were running 1 larger turbo with little bit higher CR. I hope I dont eat those words!:-\ Thanks for all of you insight! Keep it coming! Help me find some head studs for less then $300.

Here is a thread I did on the R160 VLSD. They look exactly like an open but when you take it all apart you will see that it is an LSD. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72899 Here is a piggy back. Does anyone know where to get the VLSD R160 gear fluid? It is not regular gear oil, more like the consistancy and color of honey... doesnt taste like honey though.