Gravityman

Wow that $ucks!!! Ok let me try a different pic, mabe this will help. This is a pic of the inside of the head on the cam side you can see both freeze plugs. Tell me if any of these cuts might help a little better, or a combination of them, or if I am even on the correct path.

Well... I finally got my carbide burr bits today and decided to start practicing and verifing cuts on the head. I started off with the Hydraulic Lash Adjuster bump in the intake port. It is one of the biggest restrictions in the port. Here is a before shot of the bump. I went ahead and started porting the whole thing while I was at it. I want to cover every section of the port at a time ie, bump removal, deburring, smoothing and so on. Anyway here is what the bump looks like removed. It is actually a very smooth transisition, I cant even tell where it used to be after looking at the head for a little while. More to come!

Cool Its about time someone wanted me to cut something. First can I ask why you want me to make this cut? This is what I think you are saying that you want me to cut. Did you mean the yellow lines, left, right or both, or did you mean directly through both plugs along the green line. Let me know where you want it and I will try to post it tonight if I can get the cut off today. You can upload pics when you update a thread but the pics have to be less then 50k. If you load a pic to your account in the photo upload option and then copy and paste it to the thread there is no maximum size photo and you almost never get an error. Yea, I know, The main reason I did the test with the rubber was to figure out the amount of material I removed and be able to compare the before and after. My machinist said that he would flow my heads for $50, I think he ment $50 for the preport but I asked him if that was for pre and post and he kinda went along with it and said that he would do both for $50. Not a bad price to find out the flow, consider that I dont think anyone on the forum has done this to their heads. I have to agree, If I dont get the flow test done that would leave this threat incomplete. Thanks for the pep-talk and good smacking around. Oh I just got my carbide burrs to start the port job. I will first port the last section of this head that hasn't been cut and then disect it to verify that I didn't remove to much material and weaken the integrity of the head. TO BE CONTINUED...

How much was that clutch and how does it feel?? A have been looking around for a good one for the twin turbo XT6. Web site? Thanks

WJM. I am sorry but you have to post pictures prior to the install or a link of exactly what you are talking about. I want to see this.

Here is my old write-up I did on replacing the seat fabric and rebuilding the foam to new condition. XT6 Seat repair tutorial3.pdf

That would be cool!!! The truth is I have so much crap and so many project going on at one time my garage looks like a toronado hit it. I am guessing that sometime around June next year after I get back from my deployment I should have enough money saved up to be able to modify the Brat frame, install the engine, plumb the turbos and intercoolers, build the intake manifold, tune the megasquirt to the engine and hopefully dyno tune the engine. I also have to convert the Brats underside into the XT6's suspension parts. I have a long way to go from here but If I get enough money from this deployment I can successfully build and tune fast enough to get it running very quickly.

This is half the reason I am just starting this thread. I started the project about 3 years ago and this is how far I am. Also, money has been playing a big roll in the build. If I happened across about 3K I could be done by the end of the month but since that is no where in sight probably at least a year. I will be deploying again soon so there will be a lot of down time. I do plan on finishing the engine before I leave though. Hope this helps!:-\

Belive it, there will be video!

Yep I know not to polish the intakes. As far as the extrude hone goes its very cool but $$$$!!!. I have looked into it but prices start at $800 for 6 cylinder engines. A good Idea for a pure race car but not logical for a street/race car. I should be starting the porting process this weekend depending on a few factors. I will keep an update.

The Second part of this project is to see how much volume is in each of the intake ports. As far as I can tell there are really only 2 intake port designs on the ER27 head, the third looks exactly the same as the middle port. If that makes any sense. I just got my head back from the machine shop yesterday and I am getting ready to port and polish them. Before I do that I want to find out how much volume is in each port. How I plan on doing this is by pouring molding rubber into each of the ports with the valves installed. Once the rubber has cured for 24 hrs I can remove the molding. Once removed, hopefully in one piece I can place it in a beaker of water and find its volume displacment. If I do this before and after the porting process I can compaire the original and post port displacment or how much material I removed. Here is what I used. This is the first 2 ports and the fuel boss filled with the latex rubber.

I first wanted to lift it because it thought I would have to when I originally planed to mount the radiator on top of the engine. When I went to mounting it in the back I figured I didnt need to lift it. Because I am turbocharging it I couldnt see any benifits to running a lift; balance, center of gravity wouldnt be my friend with alot of power. I plan to run it between stock height and lower. I would love to rallyX it but without a sponser it would be way to expensive to maintain, but that doesnt mean that I probably wont every once in a while. My main plans are to autoX. I will be running KYB AGX with adjustable coilovers so ride height wont be a problem. As far as the drag strip, I plan on destorying plenty of american "muscle"!

I forgot to post a pic of the Brat which will be receiving the transplant. Far from done!

oops, deeeerrrr, I dont need to be typing at 230 in the morning. Mid shift sucks!

The 2.2tt was a sequential setup where this will be a parallel setup. The sequential setup requires all the exhaust pipes feeding to the turbos one after another. 2 turbos, one small one large in a row. After one turbo gives out the next one takes over. If that makes any sense.

I am planning on making a balancing tube between the 2 intake ports to keep the boost pressure equal. I gave it little thought about putting a balancer pipe between the 2 exhaust pipes. I think the main reason that they would really need it is due to only having 2 pistons on one side. I would imagine it would be difficult to keep the pressure maximized in the exhaust pipe with only one cylinder every rotation of the crankshaft. If I am correct in my thinking I should be getting 1.5 times the exhaust output then a 4 cylinder thus increasing the back pressure. Also, by keeping the length of the pipes as short as I plan I should have no problem spooling the turbo. HOPEFULLY!!! I guess it is all theoretical. Correct me if I am wrong. I will assure you if it doesnt work with seperate exhaust pipe then I will add a balancer. Thanks!

Correctamundo, MAP is the way to go. I originally planed to run 2 MAF sensors, in fact I have 3 of them but once I found that I can run MAP with MS2 I scrapped the MAF idea. Its not as exact and it would have had to been ghetto rigged! The piping into the turbos will be (if I can remember correctly) 2.25in diam 2-1 ceramic coated and glass wrapped stainless steel. What is DAYUM? I have the capability of vacuum bagging the carbon fiber. I am going to be building all my pipes from the turbo to the heads out of basalt and carbonfiber with a high temp epoxy resin. The reason I am using basalt is it is capable of handling very high temps, this coupled with the strength and stiffness of CF should prove to be a great combination. I am still working out the kinks with how I plan to mesh the CF to the throttle and fuel bosses. I think I will epoxy the CF to the aluminum and then sandwich it between another piece of aluminum, Dont quite know yet. The radiator will be mounted in the bed of the brat along with the fuel cell and battery, Somewhat like what you see on baja racers.

1) I have only seen proof of a supercharged ER27 (pictures only). I have also seen a few pictures of turbocharged ER27s but with limited pictures of the buildup. I have never seen anything that had to do with twin turbos. There is another guy on XT6.net that is working on a turbo ER27. 2) The exhaust from the cylinder head to turbo, turbo plumbing to intercooler and intercooler to intake manifold will be completly equal throughout. I am plumbing everything to be completely symmetrical. I guess it will be like two 3 cylinder engines combined to make a 6 cylinder. This is a very rough sketch of how I want to plumb the turbo. Side view. Front view Hope that helps make sence. Now all you have to do is put all the pieces together. 3) I am totally stoked about the O-rings also! 4) Thanks! I appriciate it!

Hey Subaru Freak! Well Here it is the beginning of an extreamly overkilled/extravagant (HYPERBOLIC, if you will) build up of my ER27 to become the first ever documented twin turbocharged ER27 or ER27TT. I am sure that I will receive a ton of criticism on this thread a well as a lot of :cool: and probably but hopfully none of these :-\ ! I am letting you know now that I will be jumping around a little in this thread, there is SO MUCH to cover and SO MUCH going on with this project that it will be hard to just stay on one subject at a time. Feel free to jump around also, I am sure there will be many question. Here is the foundation as to where I am now. I did not just start working on this project yesterday. I have been researching, reading, experimenting and testing for about 3+ years now. I do not claim to know everything about building an engine let alone a twin turbo. I feel that the only thing that makes you an expert is by many years of experiance and trial and error. My experiance started about 5 years ago, whatever that makes me, I don't know, a novice/ journeyman? I bought my 1984 EA81 Subaru Brat in mid 2003. My original plans were to do a simple EA82 engine swap. I figuared that if I was going to do a swap I might as well just get an EA82T for that extra bit of power. As I worked toward finding parts for the EA82T in the junkyard I found myself staring down the front of an ER27 and was completly mesmerized. This was the first of many signs of things to come. From that point on I knew that it was destiny. I pulled the engine out with one of my buddies over the weekend, It cost me $100. After that everything just started to fall into my lap. Next I scored 2 turbos of which map to my engine perfectly and I was actually payed $200 to buy them. I found the perfect intercoolers that fit in the front of my grill clip with very little modification. The exducer on the compressor of the turbos were the exact size of the intercoolers and the new throttle bodies. I could go on forever.. I should just write a book. Many things between then and now have brought me up to this point. I guess It is only fair to show you the engine that has been going through this cinderella story. It is not pretty but it will show you what any engine is capable of no matter how ugly it is. All you need is a little TLC, a lot of imagination and a huge wad of cash, OOH and an EXTREAMLY UNDERSTANDING WIFE!!! This is what I started with. Currently my engine is at the machine shop having some machining done to it. I just had the cylinder heads decked and the valve seats ground to receive new valves. I am getting ready to port and polish the head then cryotreat and ceramic coat the valves, combustion chamber and exhaust port. The block will be getting honed and decked with O-rings cut and installed around each cylinder bore. The O-rings coupled with the copper head gasket should seal the combustion chamber perfectly. Holes are going to be drilled into the crank journels to act as piston oil jets. I just bought brand new EA82 turbo pistons that have been ceramic coated on the crowns and moly coating on the skirts which will also receive cryotreatment. Cylinder heads back from the machine shop, decked and valves ground. Ready for the Port and Polish. I am sure that many of you have seen this before. I had these rubber coated copper head gaskets custom made for the ER27TT. Here is a pic of the new pistons, pins and clips before I got them ceramic coated. I will post the ceramic coated pics once I get one. These are freakin' sweet!!! Here are the turbos that will be mating to the ER27. I am in the process of polishing the compressor housings. Later I will be having the turbine housings sent off to be ceramic coated. These are identical TA0301 Garrett turbos. Here are the Saab 900 intercoolers. I went with these not only because many other people on the board have in the past but they are symmetrical to each other. It will allow me to plumb up from the turbo to the intercooler with ease. I also have an EXTREAMLY TOP SECERET DESIGN in store for them! I am scrapping the stock intake manifold and plan on building my own either out of carbonfiber/basalt and high temperature epoxy resin or at last resort aluminum. The throttle body will be converted of throttle bodies. I picked up a throttle body setup from a twin intake nissan 300zx turbo. Notice how perfectly they line up with the saab 900 intercoolers. This is just a taste of how the setup will look in its most fundimental form. Seperatly the throttle bodies are smaller then the stock throttle body but combined the are much larger. For my Fuel management I am running MegaSquirt II V3 along with Edis for my ignition. I personally built the MSII but have yet to hook it up to my XT6 for testing. I found out some unfortunate news about the block today. The bore on one of the halfs had a LOT of pitting caused by water sitting in the bore. I know that no one makes aftermarket sleeves that drop into the cylinders but it looks like he will be boring out the entire sleeve insert and installing another one. He assured me that there should be no problem with this repair minus the extra cost, SUCK!!! This will obviously be a long on going thread. Feel free to ask any questions, add advice or criticism. I originally wanted to try to keep this all on the downlow but I felt that it wouldnt be fair to everyone that helped me get to this point.

Dude NO... Fusable links kick butt!!! They are a dime a dozen in the junkyard. Make the fusable link the first thing you check when you are having any electrical issues and then go from there. My buddy has an old ford that has fusable links that are non-replacable and you cannot check to see if they are blown, so be glad that they are extreamly servicable. The first time I had to deal with them they sucked but once you know to look at them first then they turn out to be your best friend!

You hit it on the nose! That was what I was looking for. Thank you!

I am not trying to swap the R180 with the diff and its housing but I want to change out just the internal parts of the diff minus the ring gear, just this part; I am looking at another LSD that someone is selling. They said that it was from an impreza but doesnt have a gear ratio sticker on the back. He sait that both axles spin the same direction. The other thing was he said that the number 208B was printed on the casing if that means any thing. I am almost positive that this is not a subaru diff but a nissan or datsun seeing how the half shafts mount with bolts instead of splines. This is the one i am looking at buying.

Well I guess I am just throwing the R200 idea out there. I would imagine that it would be overkill even if i did put down 300hp in the brat(FYI, I am dropping my 3.9 from my xt6 into the back of my brat). If I could find a R180 LSD, would I be able to replace just the R180 with the stock diff(keeping my original ring gear and housing). Are the R180 and R160 swappable without modification? I guess that would be my next question.

I went to the junk yard today to look around at our subaru's and nissans/datsuns. I went using my mental picture for the nissans, not really knowing what I was looking for. I know the subarus show LSD on the rear tag listing the gear ratio but the nissans have no gear ratio designation. After a little searching when i got home I have found that the 300zx turbo diffs are 3.7 LSD (R200). I think i am going to go back and pull it along with the axles and hubs to make sure. And then find a 280 zx 3.9 gear ratio (R200) and then swap the Gear set. Then the fun part of trying to get all this crap setup on the rear of the brat! Unless someone else has a better idea!

So how much is to much money for just the viscious LSD gears, no ring gears or housing. I would only be buying whats in the first picture.