Gravityman

Dude, First off unless you are running tons of lights and additional accessories ie, winch, speakers, you dont need a yellow top. They are for deep cycle only it wont give you any more performance then a red top. I am in the military and we only use red tops even in some of the biggest vehicles. Yellow is more expensive and heavier to do the same job as a smaller red top. Red not Yellow

I had the same problem with my 84 brat. The penetrating oil will help, but make sure that it disolves rust also due to that being the main reason that it is stuck. I know a lot of people like to use WD-40 but that is not really a good pen oil. I like Kroil. You have the right idea of wedging open the pinch bolt. I would try an actual wide chissel instead of a screw driver. Also if you have access to an air hammer with a chissel that would be your best bet. When I had this problem it took me about 3 and a half months to pull just my front pass side suspension apart with regular hand tool, this is when I broke down and bought an air compressor with a set of air tools. My 3 months were put to shame when I pulled out the air hammer and impact wrench and finished disassembely and reassembely by the end of that weekend. An air compressor is worth every penny!!!

Here is a pic of what I want to do. To install the rear fender you would remove the rear molding and cut from the bottom of where the molding was. Drill out the rivits that hold on the molding and then you will use the holes as a mounting point for the new fender. I will be fiberglassing mine directly to the metal but I also plan to make one that will just bolt on intead. Personally I prefer the clean look of them glassed to the metal. Like mentioned eairler this will get rid of rust spots also. Like this

You hold it in your right hand, hold your arm high behind you and throw it. Hehe Just kidding. But really why dont you just get a nice deck. Then you can get a mounting kit and mount it with the given hardware. FYI, Bestbuy does sell a deck mounting kit for the brat for about 12-20.

I would love to make some for an RX but I have never seen one for sale around here. What other cars fenders will fit on an RX? You are right that would be sick!! I really like the brat but the main thing that bothers me is there are not enough curves on the body. I really think this kit will make it stand out. I looked at some of the flares that you can bolt up to jeeps with a few screws but they just look cheap. I guess I like to tough rought. Plus, this will be more streamline and I hate it when people add crap to their cars that dont look factory. Here is another question. Should I leave the size of the wheel opening the same size as stock and offset the fender enough for the tire to tuck into the flare. or should I make the wheel opening larger then normal an set it flush with the wheel with just enough room for tuck? My main 2 concerns are the total distance the wheel will be offset from the stock possition (I am thinking the wheel will need to be offset a min of 2"-3"). My other concern is the diam of the tire. I was thinking about increasing the wheel opening about 2 inchs diam, thats 1 inch on either side. And off-setting the fender by 4 inches. This is kinda what i am shooting for. Fender-wise anyway.

Hey Subaru Freaks Ok I have been talking about making some custom fenders for my 84 Brat for a while, this is what I have come up with. I like the new styling wide body STI rally car fenders and was thinking about going with something similar. I am going to be using fiberglass. I plan to make the front fender a full swap all fiberglass. The rear, since the metal wraps the sides and top of the brat I plan to make it more of a cut and patch setup, metal and FG, but not totally sure yet. I plan on haveing a 4 inch off set from the original fender. Here are a few pics that i sketched up so you can see what i am aiming for. Let me know what you think. This is a rough top view of the brat with front and rear fender flairs This is the rear view. This is the front view. Like i was saying this is only a brief sketch of what I plan on doing to show you my plans.

Subaru Freaks, I was wondering how many of you have damaged dashes in your car; brat, EA81, 82, anything? When i am talking damage i mean like cracks, dings tears? Post a pic of your dash. I have talked to a few people that cannot find replacement dashes and want to produce a few. I have my dash out of the brat 84 EA-81 and I was wondering if anyone needs a repro dash for their EA. If anyone has pulled the dash from their brat they know that this is a big pain. So, I plan on making it so it will slip directly over your current dash with very little disassembly for the install. It will be built of high temp fiberglass and either come precovered with vinyl or primered for paint. Tell me what you think. Thanks

About the grill and the front end look, I went to the SOA plant in IL and they said that it will be going very soon, but not for the 07 models but probably the 08. The tribeca looks a little nicer for 07, chrome grill and rims, with a few other add ons. I figured that the turbo was under the powertrain, DEE DEE DEE, some one cought me off track. Belive me i will be keeping my reciepts!

sorry, i feel behind on my donations. My pm is back up.

First, I truly think that this is an IHI turbo failure which has nothing to do with subarus craftsmanship. Other then this failure there has been nothing wrong with my roo. It is a very strong running machine. It is hard for a company to screen internal parts that come preassembled from another company such as IHI. This very well could have been a simple freak incident, the mechanic at Subaru said that this is only the second time he has seen this happen on any new roo. The other time it happened the lady had NO oil showing on the dip stick and it was her fault. Gary, I was wondering the exact thing and i asked them if they flushed my intercooler for metal shaving. They said that the shavings most likely didnt make it into the IC, why, i dont know. I think the person i asked wasnt sure of the question i asked, "did you guys flush the intercooler for metal shavings", "oh that shouldnt matter. I will call after the weekend and talk directly to the mechanic. They did say that this was a normal amount of oil usage but that i need to keep it topped off almost bi-weekly, which is true. Long road trips or hard driving will eat oil.

I am already brushing 33K on the OD. It will still be covered past that. The turbo has nothing to do with subaru its IHI at fault.

WELL!!! I just picked up my legacy today and Subaru covered everything to replace the turbo under the warrenty. I am so happy! They also said that everything replaced is warrentied for 12 months and unlimited miles with or with out my original warrenty. I have to say they did me really good! excellent service and very fast turn around! Now i have my turbo back!!! :banana: :banana: :headbang:

I have an ea81 with trans that runs great for sale. I am putting an er27 in its spot.

True! Thats cool of them to do that! I truly belive that it probably was just a defect. It sure did scare the P:eek: P out of me.

low oil could possibly fry the bearings if it does not get the proper lub required. Belive me i will stand my ground! The mech said that if a bearing fails that it could cause the shaft to momentarly spin in the opposite direction or something like that causing the bolt to spin loose. I could only imagine that either vibration or inproper torque and or lack of torque seal could cause it a bolt to come loose. I work on radars(Lots of vibration, heat and G-forces) in the F-15E for the air force and I have never seen a bolt that was properly installed fail. Scott

OK, Well I found out that it is not the engine which is why it was idleing so nicely. ITS THE TURBO!!! I was told that the nut that holds the compresser blade on backed off and destroyed the turbo. That makes sence hence the wrench in the combustion chamber sound. Subaru was trying to say that the oil was to low, about a quart and a half. The oil was in the middle of the two marks on the dip, between full and low. Subaru told me that it should be at the full mark all the time. This makes no sence considering when i change the oil with the recommended amount it fills to the middle mark. They cannot confirm if the nut came off the bolt before of after the turbo bearings fried, which caused which. Its the which came first the chicken or the egg. They said that if i can produce some oil reciepts that it would help prove that i do change my oil. kinda gay. Who keeps oil purchase reciepts, not like i am going to return used oil, but wouldnt mind getting money back for the full synthetic. The mechanic said that they will most likely cover the replacement of the turbo under the warrenty either way, HOPEFULLY!!!! I will keep everyone updated. Hopefully they accidently install a VATN turbo. That would be cool!!!

I will let you all know. It is under warrenty, i just hope they dont play the "you caused it" card! It looks like the XT6 is coming out of retirement.

Well my wife was driving the turbo Legacy, need i say more? She was at a stop when she started to drive and then the check engine light came on... The engine started to shutter a little... She turned off the radio and she heard a clanking sound from under the car. So she gives me a call and has me meet her down the street and i jolt out the door. I see nothing hanging from underneath. Nothing awry under the hood. So I jump in and have her follow me home. I limped it home at about 10-15mph basicly idle. Every time it would get about 1000 revs you could hear a high pitched rattleing type of sound but nothing at idle, idled smooth. At first i thought/ hoped that it was just the halfshaft broken and was rattleing. I got home and looked really good behind the tires and the shafts looked good. I took the cover off of the engine and nothing out of the ordenary. So i jumped in the car and started it up to verifty that it was truly coming from the engine. I started it up and it idled eratically for about 2 sec's and cut out. Started it again and heard the rattle --Its in the engine-- GREAT!!!!! So I guess its time to call the tow truck and get it hauled to Subaru for a diagnoses. WOW THIS SUCKS!!!!! :mad: :banghead: I might just need to pull the XT6 out of retirement until the turbo L gets fixed. So any Ideas? :confused: I am thinking mabe a broken valve, I would imagane that if it were a rod it would idle like crap if at all even.

look here both of these companies have what you want. You also may be able to find what you what at any big sporting goods store. Yakima http://www.yakima.com/Consumer/Step2.aspx Thule http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/fg_choices.asp?car_id=2676&sport=22&factory_roof_rack=&year=1984&roof_id=2633&option_number=1

I have plans for building a Carbon Fiber intake manifold for my ER27. sorry not an ea82 but very similar. Are you looking for Aluminum?

I was wondering if anyone here has bought a performance clutch ie. 4 or 6 puck ceramic or kevlar disk? Truthfully with all pride asside how does it feel? Does it grab to hard or shudder? Are you happy with its performance or would you have chosen something else after your purchase? Thank you!

Pictures please!!! Sounds cool!

Thats awsome that you say that; I was actually thinking the exact thing. The tail gate will most likely be fiberglass due to the ease of rust prevention and weight reduction. I may or may not keep it operable. I was planing to build the tounnue cover with ducting and louvers to route the air to the rad. I plan on making to leave the front of the bed free so i can still keep it usable. These are all great ideas! I guess the only way to figure this out is fitment, trial and error.

roof? That seams kinda wierd/different.

I dont plan on running the lines through the cabin. I am planning on running them under the car through a metal pipe with heat sink fins welded to it. This should help cool the coolant even before it gets to the pump and into the radiator.