Gravityman

Sooo what is the resistance on the resistor pack?

Thanks garry. -- -- Jeffast123 Once I get the gaskets I will post a picture so you can check it out for yourself. The pricing for the gaskets are at the begining of the thread, Its highly recommended to get the RCC gaskets to prevent liquid from leaking from the engine. PM me and let me know exactly when you want to buy the gaskets and I will hook you up. ShawnW 7 psi I good this is all for preventative measures and if I can increase the boost I will have no head gasket issues. Call it overkill but if you build it big and strong then a miniscual 7 psi should give me absolutaly no problems and thats exactly what I am looking for.

Any quotes yet? UPDATE I just sent off for the new rubber coated copper head gaskets today. I ordered a .064" thick set, I checked my new head gasket that I ordered for them to copy and it measures about .067" thick so I guess I am staying very close to stock. The copper does require retorquing normally after just heating up the engine and letting it cool. Follow all factory specs for initial torque settings. O-rings are recommended if you plan to go over 7 psi of boost. I WILL be posting some pictures of these gaskets once they are finished for all to gander. I CANT WAIT!!!!!

I have an extra 300zx MAF sensor shipping would be about $10 offer me a price and we can talk.

Post that link. If that is true then it is totaly aftermarket.

Are you talking about her curves...and her getting wet? WTF:lol:

WOW somebody is compairing a ford to a subaru, big differance there buddy! My wife used to work for ford recall center before we got married, I am certin that she would have had a lifetime carrer there if I didnt join the military seeing that all their crap breaks down. The junk that rolls off the floor from ford usually 9 time out of 10 already had at least 5 recalls issued before being sold. Ford is a mass vehicle, low quality car company, why do you think they can mark their cars and trucks down about $10,000 and still make a profit on them? My wife had a 91 ford tempo and if it didnt get into a reck I was going to junk it. It wasnt even 10 years old and bairly ran, whereas my 84 brat is in about 10 times better condition then that ford. Here ya go it from ford but its a comparison of composite and aluminum intakes in almost every aspect. Not for those who dont know how to read. http://www.epa.gov/ORD/NRMRL/pubs/600r01059/600r01059.pdf

Hey I might be able to help you with your fuel injectors. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&page=7&pp=10 Let me know I have to try to pay off my TT project investment and you need help + I can do it cheaper the anyone else! PM me if you want help

Dont forget about carbon fiber (real CF) intakes, They are used in very high horsepower engines especially if turbocharged, for their properties; stronger then steel and lighter then aluminum and extreamly low heat transfer rates. Some composites used intakes and other various parts of the car are actually stronger then aluminum and lighter weight. As said previously, the biggest reason to use a composite intake is to reduce the heat transfer from the engine into the intake air. We run intercoolers to cool down turbocharged air and everything after the intercooler that is made of metal simply heats the air back up, ever touched your hand on the top of your aluminum intake manifold after driving for 5 mins, you'll burn yourself, its like touching your exhaust manifold. Try touching a composite intake. My '05 Legacy 2.5GT has the same composite material as the B9 and I am prowd of it! To add to this I am working on makeing a carbonfiber intake manifold for my ER27TT if anyone cares;)

I have to agree, PANSIES:mad:

No prob Odd! I just picked up a full set of NISSAN 300 ZX N/A INJECTORS!!!! Id love to find some 300 turbo injectors. If you ever find one of these cars they are a HUGE PAIN to pull the injectors! Talk about hidden! I also picked up about 12 injectors from a couple Eagle Talons/ Mitzu Eclipse and one from a Ford Probe. Adding about 20 more injectors to my collection. Once I find a FREAKIN' power supply i am in business!

you can service any other gaskets you come in contact with to keep them up to snuff. I would do the oil pan gasket seeing they usually leak after about 100k miles.

Update. I have my Jectorrate fuel injector tester built all I need now is a power supply to run the thing, I should be picking it up today. I will also post PICTURES!!! I cant wait to get it running! Go with MS I should be buying mine here within the next month or so. It is the cure-all.

As far as the tips(caps) go, The injectors can be rebuilt if the cap is broken or leaky the cap can be replaced hence it being black. What this looks like is a XT4 N/A or Turbo injector. The only thing that gets me is at the top between the hose and the green connector, mine is red but I cant tell what color yours is. I know that the red ones are used on the turbos, mabe black is only for N/A, mabe another reason your cap is black. I will run to the junkyard today and see if I can pick up some more injectors for testing and I will get some N/A EA82 injectors.

Well I pulled an ER27 from the junk yard that had the front end of the car smashed up bad but with NO engine damage. The xt6 was jacked up with 2 wheels proped under each wheel hub. After A LOT of preperation just me and my buddy lifted the engine away from the transmission by hand to about head level and placed it on a tire. We were going to pull the engine up to the exit but instead gave the fork lift guy $25 to get it out of the junk yard. All I can say is I don't see any reason why 2 people couldn't lift one out with any problem, just make sure you have some where to put it when you are done. I am not sure of the difference in weight but im sure you will do just fine. Have fun. Got the engine for $75 + $25 for the fork lift. SWEET!!!

Hey man thanks a lot! I know that it looks a little ghetto with wires hanging all over the place but it works perfectly. I SHOULD be getting all the electronic parts that I ordered for the pulser soon, I am hopeing to get it today so I could build it this weekend. I cant wait to test it out! I ran one of the injectors through my ultrasonic cleaner the other day, before I cleaned it it seemed kind of sticky but afterwards MAN talk about an improvement! The real test will be the cc/min when pulsed. Any injector held open continiously you could find the cc/min (thats if the injectors were actually always open on a car in use, but thats not the fact). Obviously, like previously stated, a pulsed cc/min will give you a real fill of how the injector is performing. If its gummed up it will open slower and prevent good flow. It sounds like I am beating a dead dog, sorry. Well I will let you all know when I get the pulser built and how well it works.

Here are the part numbers of the injectors that is am testing. I have to check all the numbers tomarrow to make sure that all the injectors are the same part number. These are the PN's that are on top of the injector. Now I am not 100% sure which number is actually the part number. I think the A46-00 is the type of the injector. The Nissan 280ZXT and XT4T are almost perfectly identical. I am trying to keep an eye out for a Nissan 300ZX or 300ZXturbo injectors so I can check the rates on them also. Nissan 280ZXT (Brown tops) 6148 2628B side # A46-00 Nissan 240SXT (Black tops/ silver injector tip) FJ3 Datson 280ZX N/A (Black tops) FJ3 Datson 280ZX (mystery Green top) RI-507 2350 (not sure if this is the PN its posted on the side of the injector. Subaru XT4T (Green top/ red cap) 0970 5Z05D side # A46-00 Subaru XT6 N/A (Yellow tops) Denso 195500-1330

Well the brown tops are not really hard to find, at least for me. Well at lease mabe I was just lucky. If you can find a Nissan 280zx turbo then there should be a set of these injector in it unless someone else scavenged them already. These should have brown tops. Thanks Vanislru I will probably take you up on that offer. As far as the black tops, There are found some on a nissan 240sxt and a datson 280sx but I am not sure which one they belong to. Ross post a nice big picture so I can see what they look like. Thanks

Yes Mabe. I need to get a few things ironed out and that might work, but I will see. mabe just for shipping back to you will be covered if I cant get it setup the way I want. Would you do it for that much? Is it worth it for you. I am not trying to make a quick buck off of anyone on USMB. I am trying to help you guys out!

UPDATE! I finally found a graduated cylinder that carries 250 mil/cc. The current setup has the RRFPR attached and I think it is causing the pressure to drop. I am looking at about 40psi instead of the 43 I was seeing without it attached. I am now running a combination of miniral spirits and Lucas Oil injector cleaner, it seems to be working good. Anyways here are some of the results that I got from 2 runs. I want to remind you that these are just test/practice runs before any cleaning was done to them. Note the wide variance between each injector of the same model. _____________________cc/min____cc/min Injector_______________Run #1___Run #2 XT4 Turbo #1__________198 *3____205 XT4 Turbo #2__________212_______222 Nissan 240SXT #1______188_______185 Nissan 240SXT #2______197_______194 Nissan 240SXT #3______190_______190 Nissan 280ZXTBT #1____256_______250 *2 BT = Brown top's *# = The point the injectors closed due to 9v giving up, amount of time in seconds that the injector stoped before end of run ie.. *3 = 57 sec of run time, still had 3 seconds to run before it cut out. I am really liking the Brown tops! Right now the XT4 turbo and Nissan 280 ZX turbo (N280ZXT) have beautiful atomization where they once didn't at the begining of the testing process. I am also building a JectorRate Electronic Fuel Injector Tester and Flow Analyzer by Bowling & Grippo, the same designers of MegaSquirt. I should have it built by the 20th for testing.

I saw that the starting price on a full cleaning and flow test is $30 per injector. What do you think is a reasonable price. I am thinking $27 ea with shipping both ways included. Considering everything that is involved I don't think that would be to bad. I will also print out a before and after flow rate table and include the max HP the injector flow can handle. What do you think? This is just a thrown out number. I don't expect anyone to jump on it yet until all my testing is complete.

Hey I might just take you up on that offer. I know most places I plan on running a fuel injector cleaner in normal flow, reverse flow and I have an ultrasonic cleaner that I am going to run these through(open nozzled during cleaning) to break down and clean deeper! Right after my last post I hooked up my RRFPR. I guess I can only blow about 1 psi. I blew into the manifold pressure inlet and the psi gauge jumped about 3 psi or so. COOL!!!

Try comparing the bad cables to the ones that are know good and see what the voltage is, this will help you troubleshoot.

:banana: YEEAAA!!!! :banana: IM DONE!!!! :banana: Building the fuel injector flow tester and it works awsome and everything works perfectly except that it eats 9v batteries for breakfast! I am haveing a lot of fun trying different injectors to see what is the best. Currently I am just running one of a few sets that I have but to get the correct and most accurate readings I need to do an entire set all together. First the EA82T injectors where working the best then I put on the 280ZXT brown tops and they seem to flow the best, but I cant be too sure until I am totally finished with all the injectors in the set and they are fully cleaned. Check out the pictures! My final setup. ISNT IT PRETTY!!! Various injectors spraying WOT Dont judge them yet for they still need a bath! I like these ones with metal tips. The one far right is a 280ZXT brown top but the 9v died before I could get a picture. Man this ROCKS!!!

Well as far as using gasoline or warm kerosene or diesel fuel I dont really mind I just dont want to get fuel all over the place especially with ignition sources ie... 6 9v batteries and a car battery. Lots of sparks flying not a good combonation. I am actually running Kano Kroil mixed into the water. This stuff is probably one of the best lubricants I have ever seen. But I am going to call and or email around to see what people use to check the injectors, GOOD IDEA. I am going to work on finishing the setup right now, so it should be done before I go to work tonight. I will post up final pictures later tonight.