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Everything posted by Gravityman
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A few of the injectors atomized really good. I am going to reverse flow clean them and also run injector cleaner through them to see if that will help increase the flow. Either way I want to do a before cleaning and after cleaning flow test to show how much less cc/min get when dirty.
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ea82/ea82t injector flow rates
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Check out the update!http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=323160#post323160 -
Whats up everyone!!! Well I have good news and pictures! The flow bench works! I got all the electronics set up today and finished the plumbing. Tomarrow I will be setting the whole setup on a vertical platform and then hopefully I can start running my tests. 3 of the 6 injectors that I had originally seemed to have bad internals due to them not firing, but no fear I have plenty to test! Currently I have the pump hooked directly into a fuel filter, then into the injector collum. At the end of the injectors I have the pressure gauge and then the FPR. The fuel (water) return is hooked up to the fuel resevoir of which the pump pulls from. The pump with the FPR gives me about 42psi which I have heard this is a good pressure to test injectors. Check it out, WHAT DO YOU THINK? I will be posting all of my results periotically and then in one big final outcome. Well here is the current running NOT FINISHED setup prior to completion This is an inj from a XT4 Turbo. This is an inj from a nissan 240sx turbo, I like the metal tip, help prevent any injector damage that may be caused by heat. You would be suprised how many cracked injectors I have seen but NEVER these ones. My glycerin filled guage showing us regulating at 42-43 psi. I cant wait to hook up the RRFPR. The fuel pump hooked to the filter.
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Ok This might help a little. I am currently working on a fuel injector flow bench. If you check the connections of the leads at the pigtail when it is not hooked up to the injector and the car is off, you should not read anything, infinate Ohms. This is due to the computer does not have them switched on. If the car is on and you do a voltage check between those wires you should read a low voltage flickering on and off. Also check the injectors Ohms, I belive they ohm out at about 4 or .4 ohms or something I cant remember, its been about a month or so since I checked them. I recently picked up some injectors from the junkyard and 3 out of the 6 that I had hooked up to the flow bench wouldnt even turn on. So try that and see whatcha get buddy and let me know.
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I was thinking... I am planning to armor coat the entire bottom of my brat to prevent any rust from building up, this is my plan First I want to clean all the underbody rust by cutting out and reweld sheet steel where there is rust. Then cover the entire under body (except for where all my mounting points are for the suspension) with 2 layers of fiberglass and the bottom layer with aramid aka kevlar. I will use a metal heat shield and high temp epoxy around the engine compartment and exhaust. Finally cover the kevlar with rubberized undercoating. This hopefully will prevent ANY RUST from showing its face around my car again. The kevlar is extreamly tollerant to punctures and the epoxy will make a totally airtight seal on the metal. This process has nothing to do with a skid plate for the engine/ diff and such. What do you think? It shouldn't cost more then $200-$250.
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Hey guys so far so good check it out! The flow testers is comeing along great! A few parts here and there really add up though but I figure that it is all worth it for my peeps, well for who ever uses this info. I picked up a stainless steel glycerin filled 200 psi pressure guage. The reason I picked this one was because normally the fuel pressure runs at about 95ish PSI, with my rising rate FPR attached to see how much difference it actually makes. I also picked up a 6 60mil/cc graduated cylinders, I looked everywhere to try to find a 100+ one but to no prevail.:-\ Oh well this will just have to do, I have made every thing else work up to this point, this is just a minor pebble in the road. I also picked up some nice switches to switch the injectors on and off. yada yada and so forth. I will post some more pics up here hopefully tomarrow with the injectors flowing.
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ea82/ea82t injector flow rates
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
YO ODD post a picture of the injectors you have so I can compair them to what I have in my arsonal. Thanks buddy! -
ea82/ea82t injector flow rates
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have to check but I could have swore that the ER27 and EA82T fuel plumbing was the same ie.. pump, injectors and such. I will let you guys know the difference I am going to be setting up the new flow bench and we will have confirmed numbers. -
You should have no problem just splicing into your main fuel line after your FPR, just like all the other fuel lines going to the injectors. I thought about doing the same thing, running an extra injector and just pulling the injector pulse off of say like the #1 cylinder injector. I think the injectors are on a batch injection setup where all the injectors fire at one time. Instead I am going with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. This will control the fuel pressure in direct relation with the amount of boost that you will run ie.. with it setup at a 1:2 ratio for every pound of boost increase it will rise your fuel pressure 2 psi and so on with 1:3 up to 1:6. Check it out you may be able to find a good deal on ebay. I picked mine up for about $62. Hope this helps.
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A fifth injector is placed a few inches behind the throttle.
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I just picked up a fuel pump from the junkyard from an xt6 that WORKS!&!#$*#. I tried one off of a xt turbo but no luck it was crap(eairlier in thread). Currently I have injectors for an XT6, XT4 turbo, 280zx 280zx turbo and a 240zx turbo. I am going to be building a flow bench this weekend to see what each of them run(cc). If I can remember I have a full set for each of these cars so I am going to test them all hooked together each set at a time all on a XT6 fuel pump and FPR. I will pick up a set of EA82 injectors on friday so I can run those ne my bench also. I FREAKEN CAN'T WAIT!!!!! :headbang:
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ea82/ea82t injector flow rates
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Well well well you might be in luck oddcomp. I just picked up a fuel pump from the junkyard from an xt6 that WORKS!&!#$*#. I tried one off of a xt turbo but no luck it was crap. Currently I have injectors for an XT6, XT4 turbo, 280zx 280zx turbo and a 240zx turbo. I am going to be building a flow bench this weekend to see what each of them run. If I can remember I have a full set for each of these cars so I am going to test them all hooked together each set at a time. I will pick up a set of EA82 injectors on friday so I can run those one my bench also. I FREAKEN CAN'T WAIT!!!!! I will be posting my findings on this Thread though sorry buddy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&page=5&pp=10 Oh ya Odd if you havent seen this I have fit the 280ZXT injectors in the XT6 fuel rail with minor modification. With no modification they should have no problems fitting a XT turbo, as far as a N/A EA82 I need to look at the fuel lines and see how they are setup. -
Hey I was just thinking, if you were to cut the strut towers off and reweld ea82 or xt towers on, instead of mounting it at the original height lower it about 2" for a lift with no shock blocks required. Obviously you would also need to do something to the rear. What do you think?
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Cool dude! Thats what I figured it would take. I'll have to look at my xt6 and brat to see whats going to be required.
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COPPER HEAD GASKETS for XT6!!!!
Gravityman replied to Gravityman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yea that would be awsome. I would like to know as well. I am trying to delete any problems that I might have in the future from high boost. For the increase in gasket sealing and strength I think it would be worth it. Also it would prevent any oil or coolant from getting around the gasket and into the combustion chamber. Keep me posted! -
COPPER HEAD GASKETS for XT6!!!!
Gravityman replied to Gravityman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
true, I will probably ask my machinest to see what the cost might be. -
COPPER HEAD GASKETS for XT6!!!!
Gravityman replied to Gravityman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I dont think there is a time limit on them so just start saving. As far as the compression ratio goes when changing the head gasket thickness will effect the compression ratio. I saw a thread on some ej HG where the normal gasket was .152in with a CR of 8.0:1 and with a thinner gasket of .058in the CR went to 8.5:1. When your increasing the gaskets thickness by about .1in with a bore of 92mm or 3.622in there is an increase of about 3 cid between the two. Basically the thinner the gasket the higher the CR, the thicker the gasket the lower the CR. As far as N/A and turboing, If you dont have turbo pistons but are blowing then I would go with the thicker. If you are N/A and you want to increase your CR then go with the thinner. They also said that if you want to lower the CR even more you can stack the copper gaskets with no problem to get a desired CR, good to do with N/A pistons. And I think I am going to go with the .05in thick RCC gasket. This with my turbo pistons w/7.5:1 CR may actually show closer to 8.0:1 this all depending on the thickness of the original gasket, I should be getting my engine rebuild gasket set by the end of next week and I will edit this thread. As far as the rings, yes true but get out your wallet cause your going to be forking over some money to a machine shop to cut your cyl walls for a high precision ring. You are looking at $15 per ring and then the machining which is probably around another $150 min. So $240 for copper and rings. The thing is that is the reason for going to copper is to increase the strength and prevent blowthrough between the cyl walls. I would imagine that the copper by it self would be ample. No, it is a very small grove that is cut into the cyl wall to hold the ring in, only .033"-.035" deep and .039"-.040" wide. The O-ring is usually only about .041"dia. This is not enough to do any damage to the block. The gasket is still the weakest link, next would be your spark plug(which just shot out of my friends SVT F-150 Lightening ) and then your piston rings. Hope this helps. -
Hey Subaru Freaks Copper for the XT6:brow: I can get a SET of copper head gaskets for an ER27 with RCC(Rubber Coated Copper) in .050" thick for: $117.00 & $85.00 for plain, And .064" thick for: RCC $127.00 & $95.00 plain. Anyone interested. Since I am TTing the ER27 I need something that is going to be reliable under boost and this just about the only thing that will do. Good for high compression, turbocharging, supercharging, ooh and Twin turbocharging HEHE. Think of it this way would you rather build your ER27 twice or do it right the first time? Its worth the money even if you just have a problem blowing HG's! Let me know
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EA82/ ER27 Head Gasket Q
Gravityman replied to Gravityman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I know you dont hear of xt6 HG's blowing that often, but does anyone know if they are made out of the same material as the ones that are infamous ie 2.5l? -
EA82/ ER27 Head Gasket Q
Gravityman replied to Gravityman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
bump -
Hey subaru freaks What is the Head Gasket on the EA82(T) or ER27 made of, also thickness? Sandwich type... Metal... Aspestos? I am emailing around trying to find someone that can get a good price on a COPPER HEAD GASKET for an ER27. THANKS!!!!
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baby seat latch mod - pics
Gravityman replied to loyalewithcheese's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Well It looks cool and all but I am going to have to go with calebz on this one!. Most LATCH child seat anchors are made out of steel/stainless plate with a hole for the hook. Also it is anchored directly into the body with no gap between the anchor and the body which prevents the anchor bolt from flexing like yours would in an accident. I hate shooting down peoples ideas and it just might work but these things are tested throwly time after time until they are as close to perfect as can be. I dont think you want to crash you car to test it out. I just dont want anyone to get hurt! Take care and I hope you take our advice. -
the megasquirted and edis'd rx !
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks comp & subyrally. Hey is that one of those all metal mesh intakes, or does it have a fabric filter element? I saw one at advanceauto but I never really looked into them to see how well they perform with HP gains and filtration properties. -
Let me spring board off of this on also jibs if you dont mind. Is it possible (anything is) or has anyone swapped the EA81 strut towers for an ea82 or ER27s? How about reinforced the tower or fabricated new ones? This is also in an attempt to go to an EA82 platform. Thanks all
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the megasquirted and edis'd rx !
Gravityman replied to oddcomp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Correct me if I am wrong but the EA81/82/ER27's dont use the disty for any other purpose other then for the spark correct. I am about 99.99999% sure this is true but i just want to make sure 100%.