Gravityman

Hey subaru freaks Has anyone ever tried to rotate the intake manifold on the XT6 (ER27)? I know that it is possible it will mount! You could do this and basicly hook up a K&N and MAF and BAM you have a short ram FM intake. Anyone think about trying this? I might just for picture sake.

Awsome pics dude thanks very similar to that but I will have to go wider to accomidate for the xt6 susp. How long did it take you to build? and how much $$?

Well the thing is I am trying to figure out how I want to do it. This is my ordeal; I am droping the ER27 into where there was an EA81. I am going to be using the cross member from the XT6 as well as the entire drivetrain. The XT6's crossmember is 2 inches wider then the brats, as well the control arm adds another inch on both sides, 4 inches wider then the brat. What I was thinking about doing was either using a 3"X3" 3/16" square tubing and either bending it to fit (Which I think would be insane), instead I might just cut and weld the whole frame together. The reason I was thinking about using the 3x3 was so that I can still mount the bolts in the stock possition on the brat and the extra 2 inchs of offset will allow me to bolt into the XT6 suspension due to the wider mounting locations. This Idea would use 2 3X3s one for each side of the brat. Another idea was to only use the 3X3 in the mounting areas and for all the other places in between the 3x3s use either a 2x3, 1x3 or 2x2. This would cut down on cost and weight. This is what I was thinking; the I's are bolts. I could taper the 3X3s out at about a 45deg angle to meet the 2x3 to increase strength and at the bends I would just cut and weld in the angles. Not a very pretty pic sorry. Dont pay attention to the grey it is only for filler, the Blue is the picture. __________________ __________________\____________________________ ________________\____________I___I______________<- 2x3 _________________________\___I___I___/<- 3x3 __________________ __________________\____________________________ _____________________________I___I _______________\_____________I___I_____________ <- all 3x3 So is it better for less weight or strength? Will the smaller tubes still be sufficiant?

Whats up subaru freaks I was wondering if anyone has ever thought about building a sub-frame for their roo? I was thinking about putting a small lift on my brat no more then 3". When I do this I was thinking about building a full sub frame under the brat and using this frame as the blocks for the lift. I know this would add a lot more weight but the rigidity would be awsome. So basicly instead of just blocks at the lift points, the frame would extend from one point to the next. This would also give you a perfect place to tie in a roll cage. What do you think?

Im going to the junkyard this week I will get one and see if it will fit my xt6 for $h1ts and grins.

All 4 are running but the engine is coming out of the brat and XT6 this weekend so i can start working on the er27 engine swap and engine bay prep. But they all run great!

As fars as an easy injector swap and since you are gone to be using MS to control the injectors, I would say If you could find the nissan brown tops from a turbo, that will be one of your best bets! I am experimenting with injectors with even higher flow rates but havent came across anything that would be as easy as the brown tops. My motor should have the potential of putting out over 300hp when I am done, the thing is I need to make sure that every time I increase the HP by 25hp I dont have to keep on changing out the injectors. So I am looking for something with about a 400-500cc output range. <--CRAZY!!!

I asked about the overlap and they said that what they do is leave the exhaust duration alone and add to the intake (260 grind). So basically this will allow all the exhaust to flow through and let the turbo to blow more air into the cyl and to compensate for any pressure loss from the exhaust cycle. So i am told. I am haveing them regrind my ER27 cams with a turbo profile. Hopefully they will succed!

I am almost positive that you will need to put at least a 3 inch lift on if you plan on putting a rad on top of the engine. As it stands the ER27 is already taller then my EA81 and the EA82. So just the ER27 swap in will be a tight fit. With the TMR you also have to add the length of the hoses into the rad. I would say 3in min with the top mount radiator (TMR) but I belive that subarubrat started with a 6" lift.

is that ea82 only, and can you get to all the head bolts?

Well today I did some active research looking for items that I could modify to act the same as the jets from the EJ22, seems to be a good place to start. Anyway I stopped at lowes and went scrounging about the brass fittings dept. and found one of these; 1/8" square head plug I was planning to drill a .03" hole in the center and tap it into my engine block haveing it spray directly onto the back of the piston. Instead... I found a set of 6 Hobart mig welding contact tip with a .03" hole already in it and threaded. The only thing is it might be a little long and the thread size is an unusual thread rate(I havent verified the count yet). The cool thing is they look like they were made to be used as an oil jet. So what I plan on doing is cut the length to prevent any thing from touching moving parts and then recut the threads to a good size. I was reading maximum boost and they said that .03" hole is a good place to start, I also found .023" .035" and .045" holes so if i need to jump up a size I can. So what do you think? I only payed about a $1 each and I have called VW to find out how much, they wanted $25 each. On top of that subaru didnt even know what I was talking about, guess it must be in J-spec engines only. I will post the final product. HOPE IT WORKS!

Yes retorque. Just after run in. Normally this only takes about 30 mins with NO coolant. You dont have to drive it anywhere. verify this with any manual. Also a VERY VERY GOOD parts site is www.rockauto.com This is where I bought my gasket set and just about every thing else. They usually have a very large selection of any part you need.

WJM Any word back from ARP?

Thats a good question, I am trying to figure out this exact question. I will let every one know when I figure this info. I did talk to boxer4racing and they told me to use the direct spray system that was designed for the EJ22T. They told me that the jets were stock on the 22B's.

Yea thats about the only soob performance guys out here that I know are good. I will have to give them a call.

that suck cause I need 26 head studs for my ER27 where you guys only need 18. If you guys are paying 360 I am looking at 460. THIS FREAKING PRICE NEEDS TO DROP or I am sticking with bolts. The cool thing is the ER27 sports 5 bolts per cyl where most engines only sport 4, this give the er27 an awsome jump in clamping force and a huge reduction in stress to all the head bolts. Greater stress distrobution. Something to think about.

I hear ya. Mabe all of the subaru performance shops are in the west side of NC in the mountains. I know of a few out there. I just hope they arent ignorent towards older engines and only like the EJ22 and up.Ill have to give them a call.

North Carolinas reaction to the word "Subaru" is Suberwhat! That is my biggest problem no one wants to touch my engine. Wish I was in colorado. If you could help me JWX that would be awsome! What I am trying to do is find out what type of jet would be best and where to mount it.

Any idea where on the back of the block would be the best place to tap into? or mabe on the yellow dots? My plans were to run an additional oil pump to prevent bleed off.

WJM...... Your the BOMB!!! And I thought I was the only one thinking like a genius. HEHE:brow: Just kidding guys your ALL cool like US! :cool: DONT FORGET TO LET US KNOW WHAT THEY SAY!!!!

Hey Subaru Freaks Heres a good question for a smart motor head. This is ER27 specific but if you would like to provide some info for others with a diff engine feel free. I am planning to add a set of Oil spray jets to each of the cylinders. This is done to reduce the temperature of the piston and help reduce charge temperatures in the combustion chamber preventing (hopefully) predetenation (knock). I does basically the same thing ceramic coating the top of the piston does but for the bottom of the piston (remove heat). I have heard of turbocharged engines being pulled apart that were manufactured with these in stock with over 170k miles with NO cyl wall or piston wear! My question is; What part of the engine should I tap into to provide me with the most oil pressure to spray the jets. This is a pic of the set I plan on using. I think these came off of a VW 2.0. This is what they look like mounted. This has already been done in EJ22T. Mounted.

We need to ask ARP if they have any that are longer but all the other specs are the same. If so I was told by my aircraft MT guys that if we can get them longer there will be ABSOLUTLY NO PROBLEM adding threads to the stud and then cutting the access off. This needs to be found out, and Quick!

I am going to ask my F-15E aircraft metals tech guys how much of a big deal it would be to do this and about how much it would REALLY cost. I am also going to see if they can make sure that is the correct thread count(not trying to undermine any previous measurements just want to make sure they are correct!)

This is actually what I was trying to find out from subarutex, what was the reason they did not have that stud size? Was it the thread count, stud length ect.. What?

Hey guys I sent Subarutex's head stud info to about 20 different fastener companies to try to get a good rounded price for a set of head studs for our roos. Hopefully the info goes through and I get a response very soon and hopefully they are lower then $500 HEHE. The only thing I am not totally sure about is if the thread tap size 11x1.25 is correct but I am not totally sure where the measurement is taken, at the deepest part of the thread or at the non threaded part of the bolt. Well I will let you know.