Gravityman

Here if you are going to be ordering a head gasket for a turbo go for the GOLD! or i mean copper with rubber coating. I had the flatout group custom make me one for my ER27, only one like it in the world!!! They also have ones for EA81's and EA82's. The nice thing about these gaskets is you never need to replace them. You can keep using them every time you break into your engine where as all other gaskets you need to buy new ones. You could get the EA82 HG for about $94 and have it at your door steps in about a week. It only took them 2 weeks to one off custom make mine for the ER27. My Copper HG tread; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40420 Flatout group catalog! http://www.flatoutgroup.com/orders/2006FlatoutGasketsPDFECatalog.PDF

http://www.flatoutgroup.com/orders/2006FlatoutGasketsPDFECatalog.PDF

Without looking at it, it sounds like you have a sticky solonoid that is keeping all of your electronics/fuel flowing. Or mabe your ignition wiring has gone belly up. That does sound weird. I would mabe say swap around you solonoids for fuel and ignition and see if that changes anything. I wish i could actually see what is happening. Good luck. Let us know when you fix it what it was. Cheers!

Aaahh man:( You took the steam out of my engine. But you are right the brat was easy, once i got through the layers of rusty bolts it was home free with just a little ingenuity. The newer cars do keep it interesting.

If you can find a good EA82 turbo engine, do all of what Gary said to that new motor and then drop it in place of your N/A motor. You will get the added power you want and the extra miles. The engines aren't that hard to find. I think everyone wants to start off simple then say to themself "I will leave it stock and keep it reliable with good gas mileage". A few months after working on it you will say to yourself "I will just drop a turbo into it" and then it goes to "now I want a 4 inch lift" and then eventually you will drop a twin turbo in it with a bigger motor and improved suspension. Belive me this is how it went for me and many others here. These cars are very easy to work on and a lot of fun. Welcome buddy!

I swapped the front ones out on my 84 brat and it worked great! To take them out you can pretty much take a wide punch and lightly hammer them out from the opposite side being carefull to work your way around evenly. To reinstall them you could bring them to a machine shop and have them press them into the hub. This is the cheapest and easiest way. I used a ghetto method that would take a hole day to explain. Basicly i just made my own bearing press and lightly tapped them in. Fun stuff if you like doing that, I know I do! Now i need to do my back ones, they have way too much play in them! Good luck!

You guys REALLY REALLY need to do this rally in mid June in Colorado. It doesnt really matter where you have it but it needs to be in CO! I am currently deployed to the desert and I will be home (CO) in june. I havent been to any of the meets because no one does them out in NC where i am stationed, not very many soobies. I wont be able to bring my brat or XT6 but i will have my 05 Legacy 2.5GT and my mothers Forester so i am game for 4wheeling! Mabe we can meet up at Breckenridge or somewhere close to that. JUNE JUNE JUNE 15th !!!! There is a lot of room at the parking lots to swap parts and i am game to buy stuff also! JUNE 15! What do you think?!?!?!

Why else would it matter? Drift the corners!

Sweet! You guys all rock!!! So this one is from an 84 brat GL correct? What year and model is this one from? It was give to me by ROSS. Does anyone know if the symbol changes between a GL, DL or turbo model? DONT STOP HERE POST MORE DIFFERENT ONES IF YOU"VE GOT SOME!!! Again I appriciate every ones help!!!

I dont have one where i am located, unfortunatly. Thanks

I am trying to get a strait on photograph to redraw. All the ones that i have seen on the web are to small and will distort when i blow them up. Cheers

BUMPDIGGITY:clap:

BUMP:banana:

Hey Subaru freaks, I need some more pictures of the front emblem but LARGER. If possible i need one with a direct strait on photo. I am using it to make a battery box and i am no where near my brat to use as a referance. If possible I would need one that is off of a 1984 Brat. I know that some of the models had minor differences in the emblem. I REALLY appriciate everyones help on this! I need it fairly soon. Thank you.

They sit around 155-160 cc/min. About the exact same as the N/A EA FI engines. Also here is my thread from USMB dealing with nissan injectors. I am not done with the tests due to the fact i am half way around the world right now. I did do some upgrading to the injector tester. I added a RRFPR with a boost guage and hooked it up to my air compressor to give it artificial boost which in turn increases the fuel pressure. I also have over 100 injectors from various cars. Updates on this thread should show up in about 2 months. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26375&page=8

I would gladly flow test/compare then to the EA82T. The only thing is I am moving again 2nd time in 6 months + going on a 5 month TDY for the military so it would be awhile before I could touch them.

I would be doing this to the xt6 trans. Couldnt you just mount the slave lower/closer to the transmission which would make up for the distance it needs to travel or push the fork?

I have a carbed EA81 so I am not 100% sure how the fuel lines on the ea81t hook up. If they are anything like the EA82t they are virtually the same except for the flow rates. You could pull them off the 280zxt and the hoses will mount directly up to the fuel pipes on the ea81. The flow rates on the ea82t are 225cc and the ones on the 280zxt are 260cc. The computer should be able to handle that small of a jump in fuel flow though the injectors. All I can say is drop in an O2 sensor gauge and see how your engine runs now and then swap in the brown tops and see if the ecu corrects the rich mixture to stoich, if so then your in the go! Its not a very hard process its just the tuning. I am going to be running a MS so I can fully control pulse and duration so it doesnt matter what size injectors i put in. Good luck, let me know what you end up doing!

Hey Subaru freaks Has anyone ever thought about convering their clutch system from cable to hydrolics? I am thinking about doing this reason being i am buying a street racing clutch and I want to remove all doubt from the clutch line. Pros vs Cons? Thanks!

Easier but more cost effective?

Bowflex heemmm?:-\

Hey subaru freaks Has anyone heard of or tryed to mount 2 sway bars one directly on top of the other. I saw this i a book and said that you can do this instead of trying to find an aftermarket one or having one custom fabed. I would imagine that it would be tighter then a aftermarket SB, also if you wanted to remove one to loosen the roll you could. Sound cool, I hear an experiment coming.

I like the fact that they are original in their mechanical and body styling, and that not many people have them (well not where i currently live, I cant say that about colorado). They are pretty much one of the most reliable cars on the road. Every single car comes stock w/ AWD and with the option of a turbo (except the tribeca but thats going to be next years unvailing with the 3L TT Tribeca).

I am pretty sure that the fuel injectors would not be touched. The only thing need to be rewired or rerouted is the By-pass air control valve and the throttle cable. As you probably know there are 3 parts to the intake manifold; the Intake manifold collector (top piece) and the 2 parts of the intake that house the fuel injectors. What I was thinking was to only rotate the collector (top piece), the injectors would not be touched and the mounting hole are in the exact possition when the collector is rotated 180 deg. I am just worried about the hood and the alt being in the way. I dont know call me CRAZY.

I dont know if it would really work with the stock hood, probably not. I just thought It will be cool mabe help increase HP by mabe .23HP and about 100ft/TQ. Take the cold air from before the engine instead of after.