Gravityman

Whats up Subaru Freaks! Ok, my buddy bought a 98 impreza 2.5rs. Little did we know that the CEL would lite after the transaction was complete. Anywho, I pulled the codes and it said "Knock Sensor 1" & "Catalyst Efficiency below threshold". So I went searching for a new knock sensor. I found one at the junk yard on a crashed Legacy 2.2 around the same model year, so probably good, hopefully! The Knock sensor part number from the 2.5RS is 22060AA061 the one on the Legacy is 22060AA070. The only real difference in these sensors looks like the wiring (the 061 has the wire attached to the sensor and the 070's wire disconnects at the base of the sensor and extends to the same white connection as the 061). *The end connectors are the same *The size of the sensors are the same *The Ohms both read at about .560K Ohms but when I lightly tap on the -----070 KS the DMM jumps faster and more accuratly then the 061. So my Question to you GURU's is... Can I swap between these 2 sensors? I cant find any reason preventing me from doing so. Thank you for your input.

I plan on running the EDIS 4. I have not seen the 7 tooth wheel in operation yet, nor have I researched too far into that either. I originally started to work with the MS on my ER27. Seeing that this is an entirely new engine I have a few more options to work with and figure out. It has been I while since I have messed with my MS. At the time I know you could only run one fuel/spark map at a time. Unless someone finished building a loader that has saved maps on the MS I belive you have to hook up your laptop to change your maps. But this option would be perfect! I would try to get the MS guru's to build me a circuit that detects the hydrogen or controls the amount of hydro generated in order to produce the amount the engine requires. Or something like that:-\ .. A I plan on working on an experimental cell that seperates the hydrogen from the oxygen so you are running pure hydrogen into the intake. What this will allow you to do is run the hydrogen into the intake after the MAF sensor and purge the pure Oxygen into the atmosphere. This should help equalize the ECU, showing stoich under natural conditions and not having to add o2 modifications. The pure burn should keep the o2 showing stoich almost constantly. Hopefully this works... All based off of my theory:slobber:

I think there will be some improvement with the hydrogen mixed with gasoline but not a ton in the stock form. I did not read the write up on the PDF yet but I have looked over a LOT of info already out there, Plan on reading it. Most people are using an Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE). It is supposed to compensate for your O2 sensor reading high from the added O2 introduced by the HHO. It then changes the input reading from the O2 sensor and tell the ECU that the engine is running closer to Stoich then it really is. I personally dont like quick fix gizmos that you have to tweak all the time that lie to your ECU. This is a cheap (cheesy) fix and potentially damaging! What happens if you the Generator stops working, Now you are running your engine lean, NOT GOOD!! What i plan on doing is buying another Mega Squirt and hook it up to the EJ22. It is better to tell the ECU the proper O2 readings and then tune the fuel management in accordances with an accurate reading throughout the entire rev range for how ever much HHO the engine is receiving. I want to also build a switching device that will allow you to run the MS along side of the original ECU. When you are running only gasoline the stock ECU will run and the MS will be shut off. When you want to run the HHO you will select the HHO generator to "ON" inside the car via a switch (While the car is turned off) which will (deactivate the stock ECU) enable the HHO generator and the MS ECU that has been pretuned to run with HHO. The MS will be tuned to run the car at the highest efficiency with HHO to increase the MPG its maximum capability. Also, since the MS can also adjust ignition timing, you will be able to adjust when the cylinder fires. As S'KO said previously and is true timing will need to change based on the amount of hydrogen introduced to the engine in order to obtain maximum efficiency. This will be better then the EFIE because EFIE just lies to the ECU based on what you think the o2 sensor should say, not what it should say to obtain optimal stoich. You cant change fuel injector pulse width or duration to directly adjust for HHO, instead the EFIE is changing the position on the ECUs fuel map where it thinks it should be for the O2 reading you are giving it. If you are hooking up the EFIE and say at 1000 revs you tune it, and the HHO generator has little vaccum on the system, whos to say that it wont create more gas or require more gas at higher revs. Also, what about the amount of HHO your generator makes, the efficiency based on heat in the cell and breakdown of electrolyte can dramatically reduce or increase the amount of gas your cell generates. So when the EFIE gets tuned when the generator is cold it will probably increase the fuel milage, but once the cell starts to heat up, the amps will increase which will increase the production of HHO again throwing off the HHO to Gas ratio, negating where the EFIE was tuned. REMEMBER the Stock ECU for any gasoline engine was built to run a gasoline engine and the components on that engine were built around the combustion of gasoline and air. Yes hydrogen can run in a stock and completely unmodified gasoline engine but in order for hydrogen to run with gasoline at its highest efficiency you are going to need to change the brains(ECU) to run so that it knows that it is burning hydrogen and gasoline together. I belive that once the ECU is introduced, the engine could be tuned to obtain close to 2X its stock efficiency. It will retain or improve its original HP and TQ but at least double its original MPG. MEGASQUIRT GOOD --- EFIE BAD! Hope you understand what I just wrote, makes sence to me.

Ok first, Stainless steel is the only thing you can use, minus Ti but it is way too expensive! Alum and Copper are to soft and through the electrolisys process it will soon break down. Gold is an option but WAY to costly, I also tried electro plating gold on stainless but it also removed the gold plating. SS does not tarnish 316 is the way to go but is extreamly expensive! BTW copper and Alum are nearly equal in their electrical conductivity compaired to SS. SS is actually a resistor, actually used in resistors. My buddy did get an old carburated V6 to idle off of his small HHO generator. He clamped off the fuel line into the carb and let all the fuel run through along with the HHO. It initially idled at about 1K revs, once the fuel ran out the idle dropped to 750 revs. This was on a small very cheap designed HHO gen. Glad the post started to catch some steam! get it steam 2H+2O:lol:

Other then yours, Id you see a few nice roos at the race? Cant wait to see the pics!

Thats cool Nip, so instead of being the stick in the mud why dont you help the cause? Do you really think that this whole process is really completely worthless? Why, other then "this is alot of nonsense"? I am tired of the 10cent fuel hike every other day, and ever since katrina the prices never dropped back to a normal price. The average retail price for gas prior to Katrina was about $2.50 (acceptable, it still flowed with inflation). Post Katrina it jumped to nearly $3.04 per gallon. Since, it dropped a few cents but increased exponentially. Now we are paying about $3.70 per gallon and the rate of inflation is not following the way it has in the past. I am DAMB tired of this gas war, I am military and dont get payed much, but I am going to do the best I can to counter this BS. I know I cant save the world myself but I can at least try to change mine and anyone willing to help me or support me. I am still working on the Hyperbolic TT ER27. If my test come out positive and this isnt just a big crock of crap that I am throwing my money at then I most likely will supplement my turbo project with hydrogen. I will have to get through alot of testing and I would like to at some point try to test with a turbo or high compression to see how well it works. I have see on youtube a turbo running with it as a supplement, but I am looking for efficency and overall reliablity. I am sorry Nipper for the crazed rant, it was not focused at you. My sincerest appoligies!

Does your water turn brown after a while of use? The reason for distilled is that there are no minerals or particals in the water except for the electrolytes that are added, ie baking soda... There are many different types of electrolytes out there all over. Baking soda seems to be used the most mainly due to cost and the easeabiliy to obtain. Plate spacing and surface area- I will also be running tests on these factors to validate the increased production of gas, temp over time, amp draw and a few other variables. As far as the water temp goes, from what I have experianced you are correct about the temp, Higher temp more gas because the temp will reduce water tension and increase amperage. The problem you end up having is thermal overload. If you run the generator for too long the heat will start to spike and then the amp's will increase to overload and if your system is fused, the fuse will blow. Have you ran your generator for longer then an hour? It will get very hot. There needs to be a temperature regulator for the system to prevent heat soak. As far as the dyno thing goes... I have a G-tech pro RR, it is pretty accurate for measuring power. I plan on doing a long set of pulls on this before and after the HHO system install to validate any power increase or loss, not just the "hey it feels like I added a turbo". Thanks for the Q's keep them coming.

For initial testing I would be using household electricity yes, however once the system is installed on a car the battery and alt will be the power source. As far as octane goes PER WIKI "Hydrogen represents a paradox. As a fuel outright, it has low knock resistance[2][3], due to its low ignition energy (primarily due to its low dissociation energy) and extremely high flame speed. However, as a minor blending component (i.e., a bi-fuel vehicle), hydrogen raises overall knock resistance. Flame speed is limited by the rest of the component species; hydrogen may reduce knock by contributing its high thermal conductivity. These traits are highly desirable in rocket engines, but undesirable in Otto-cycle engines." The hydro/gas ratio is still yet to be determined until I can get a full system setup. And as far as valves go, not sure yet. What I want to do is tear down my engine, inspect it with pictures, reassemble it use it as a test bench to adjust all variables and then reinspect after a considerable amount of tests. Hopefully it will last my abuse. I appriciate you questions and comments.

I am still currently experimenting with different forms of stainless to see what produces the gas the most efficiently. My friends have built the ones out of 304 stainless outlet covers from lowes, another out of a 3/4" bolt in the center of a stainless tube. I am actually trying a little different setup. I am trying threaded rods, which have been working great! I am at 1/30th scale and producing a good amount of gas right now. I have a 0-50vdc 0-30amp power supply that is completely adjustable, which I normally keep at about 12-15vdc and 15amps. Tomorrow when I have more time (need to go to work) I will post a pic of my plan. In the mean time what does yours look like? plates, tubes? what are you using for you container? what are you using as an electrolyte? What grade metal are you using? Distilled or tap water? I will be testing a bunch of electrolytes that can be find at any old store. If anyone has done this PLEASE FEEL FREE TO POST RESULTS, PICS, VIDEOS, whatever!!! The more we know the better off we will be. BTW thanks for the support!

Thats cool, criticism is fine, I expected some as I once did the same. I have already built a small scale test and it does actually produce hydrogen. If I am barking up the stump of an old cut tree at an imaginary squirel, I guess I will find that out once the mist clears and then I will see for myself. But only then if it does not work i will have the proof to show others that it does not work. Running on pure hydrogen alone is obviously a long shot and would be the greatest outcome from these tests. I am mearly trying to improve fuel economy, reduce emissions and hopefully net a small power gain. If you guys want to keep paying $4-$6 per gallon, go right ahead but dont be fooled that gasoline is the only combustable fuel out there that will burn properly in a gasoline engine. I may eat my words later but either way I am going to give it a try.

Hey Subaru freaks! SUBARU THAT RUNS ON WATER!!! Well soon... So, the basics. HHO is the gas created through the electrolysis of water or H2O. The electrolysis process breaks down the H2O in to 2 Hydrogen and 1 Oxygen molecules. The Hydrogen is formed on the Cathode or the negative electrode and the Oxygen is formed on the Anode or the positive electrode. The gas leaves the water combined as HHO. The gas is very combustible, believe me! SO.... I am currently testing and building a HHO system to setup on my 91 Legacy. The gas allows you to lean out your gasoline as the HHO gas supplements the gasoline with a hotter burning, more combustible, faster ignition, higher octane, cleaner burning, emissions reducing gas. With the ability to lean out the fuel you get better gas milage. Some claim to be able to run without a catalytic converter and be able to pass a smog test. Some have claimed a MPG increase above additional 30 MPGs. Anywho, right now I am testing all different types of variables to be able to produce the gas the most efficiently. I will be building a setup as a supplemental system which should increase power and increase MPG's by at least 10+ MPG. Once I get the initial system setup built I will be building an EJ22 test bench like a DYNO bench where I will be able to control all variables, monitor gasoline and HHO input. I also plan on adding a MegaSquirt ECU to even further control the engine perameters and monitor how my system works to maximize fuel efficiency and hopefully power. There have been completely successful attempts of running solely on HHO gas in small engines, IE lawnmower, weed eaters and generators. I will also be working on setting up an HHO generator which would be powered off of the generator which would in turn power the HHO generator all powered off of water. If this test is successful for me I plan on setting up the EJ22 or my EA81 to run on just HHO. If I can get this idea to become reality, WATER WILL BE MY FUEL! So stay tuned, I will be bringing you my results, pictures and videos and maybe even the first Subaru to run off gasoline supplemented by HHO and hopefully one that runs completely off of HHO. So goodbyezzz $4.00 a gallon what are you paying?

Next compare the EA82, ER27, EJ22 Axles with the opposite hubs

SO what is everyone waiting for??? PICTURES INSTALLED!!!!

Thanks nipper, I thought I was loosing my mind! I looked all over and through the CRAP Chiltons and FSM (not as crappy) but could not find anything. This would explaine why I could not find it.

Where the heck is the governor on the 4EAT? If you can send me a picture on the location.

Well today it stuck in 3rd gear for about 2-3 miles. And then we figured we would jump the car a few times and then race it through a field with rutts to see if that would loosen up the transmission. SERIOUSLY! JUMPS AND RUTTS! We will see if the trans acts up tomorrow morning. If so then it is back to the trauma treatment! We had all 4 wheels off the ground! For a $300 EJ22 wagon that thing drives awsome! The suspension handles great and it didn't even feel like we hit the ground that hard when we landed. That car is freaking awsome!!!

If i can remember right it was sticking, my friend shifted into first and then second and the transmission finally shifted in to second also. I think once he shifts manually and then back into drive it free's up the trans and then shifts all day with no problems. I will have to double check that and make sure that happens all the time. The magnet looked like a flower of metal flakes with metal flakes lining the bottom of the pan. While sitting the tranny shifts through all gears fine and sounds great.

The outside temp is between 55-75. Shouldn't be a problem. My other ej shifts just fine in colder weather. It is stuck in first gear. It hit 4k revs at about 20 mph. I will try to find that sensor and pull one from the junkyard. Hopefully that is all it is. Anyone else have an idea? Thanks

Whats up Subaru freaks! So my friend picked up a 91 EJ22 4EAT AWD Legacy Wagon with 164K miles for only $300. The only things known that were wrong was the car wouldn't start, which was quickly narrowed down to the fuel pump, and the transmission sticks in first until the car heats up to operating temps. The fuel pump was a quick junkyard fix. Now we have to figure out what the deal is with the transmission. I have seen on another thread that a sticky governor or a modulator could be the cause on a 3EAT, but that was an OLDER model. Does anyone know what could be the cause? We flushed all the old trans fluid out, flushed all the lines, changed the internal and external filters, added a quart of Lucas to the trans and filled it with dextron III. Does anyone have any ideas? If so please share!!!

Go get married if you aren't already and then go with both. The Legacy for the wife and the STI for you.

High performance parts for the XT6... Are completely custom. No one makes anything for these cars except oem. I am building a twin turbo ER27. I am building the motor to handle more HP then anyone else here reliably, hopefully. No one makes anything aftermarket but you can still get parts custom build for your engine. I have had a bunch of custom work done to my ER. Check out my Hyperbolic ER27TT build thread. Ram-performance, you can get a few things there but they are outrageously expensive, and they only carry parts that are swappable from the EA82. Custom would still be cheaper. As far as your milage... When you cleaned your MAF sensor, what did you use? There is only one cleaner you can use on them that is specifically for maf's. Anything else will be likely to destroy your maf sensor. just an idea. It could kill your fuel milage.

Just about any AMC made he has about 5 min of each. Most of them are in complete restorable condition. about 10 javelins and about 5 AMX's, Tons more! If I had the space and money and time I would pull anything he would let me!

Sawsall? 2 Chainsaws will do the trick! I will look through my pic and see If can name any of the cars. Some where pretty rare classic's! I am going to see If he will let me have a go with the emblems. If I can find a place for them I will move them off his lot but .... there is tons of work and old cars all around them. I would love to see the yellow coupe be in really good condition, at least in restorable condition. There might be enough parts off of all 3 cars to make at least one that is in semi-decent condition. I am glad I bought a welder! So what motor should I drop in the coupe? I was thinking full restoration with all numbers matching ish. If that means I need to cut off number from one and weld them on the other then thats what will happen.

Yep thats rust in the roof and just about everywhere else on this car. I was thinking about pulling as much out of these cars as possible that is good and try to resell what I can. It is such a pitty seeing all of the great cars go to waste. The old man has well over 200 cars that ran and were just parked there to rust away.

Whats up Subaru freaks!!! Well I came along something I have been looking for, for a long time. A little old man in my town that used to sell AMC's closed up his property and shut down shop around the late 80's. Pretty much everything that was there when he closed the shop is still sitting there today. I fortunatly got to oppertunity to pass through the gates and got to check out inside what very few in town only get to see when passing by his gates. I was walking through his lot searching for a subaru and had a gut feeling that there was an old 70's model sitting somewhere. I could not find anything myself. I asked the old man if he knew if he had any roo's on his lot. He first brought me by an '80 something yellow GL wagon. I was hopeing this was not all and then we moved a little farther back in his lot and found another mid '80 blue sedan. Yep tons of vines and branched all over the place. I turned around and there sitting among a ton more weeds sat a sad '70 model Coupe caked with cancerous rust. So disapointing! Most of the the body and frame was rusted out from underneath it, but it looked like the motor was still intact. The old man said that he had a few more subarus amongst the weeds and vines. We searched but couldnt find them for a while until I cought a glimps of the rear C pillar chrome vent shining through thick trees growing up around the sides. It was another 70' coupe. Again Cancer, rear end and front end damage As I was looking over this car I again sighted yet another 70' model coupe completely engulfed in veins. The body didnt look as bad but still needed tons of body work to fix the cancerous spots. I couldnt belive it 3 coupes in one place but not a single one that would be even close to a chance for restoration. I still cant belive it!!! The old man said that if i could get the cars out from behind the trees and 20 rusted old cars in their way then they would be mine. What luck! I felt like I was being taunted! Anywho... :-\ Mabe another day!