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Sounds like it be would worth the drive to your neck of the woods to have it done, even with current gas prices.... Thanks for info, I suspected both the dealers and independents here in the Twin Citie are a *little* out there on their quotes... :-\

Yeah, I just about broke out laughing out loud when talking to White Bear Subaru. I just got off the phone with Morrie's Subaru in Minnetonka, where I bought the car waaaay back in Nov. of 1995. The service guy pretty much confirmed the same time and labor rate estimates, and kind of covered what is involved to do the bearings. He owns a 96 OBW as well, along with a early 200x STi (Cobb Tuning, Modified exhaust, Dyno'd on a Mustang Dyno at 350hp at the wheels), and seemed to be pretty knowledgeable. Anyway, he confirmed that the axles are pretty easy to do yourself, bearings are more labor intensive. Highly recommended against *any* remanufactured axle, only new OEM Subaru, stated that their experience was that 9 out of 10 remanufactured axles had problems with vibration after installation. He had not heard of MWE axles which I thought was surprising, but maybe not. Labor Only: 3.8 hours per side - Bearings $881.60 total 1.5 hours per side - Axles $348.00 total Didn't ask about the struts, but that added on probably comes close to the White Bear Dealership's qoute of ~$1,600 :eek: Oh, their price for an axle is $181, compared to MWE's of $75. I just find the labor rates on the bearing amazing..... unbelieveable. On A Side Note: The Morrie's rep and I got talking about the HG issues. He had his 96 done at 122K. He stated that their dealership sees waaaay more phase II engines (SOHC) HG issues than phase I (DOHC). Now that may not mean anything as you have to account for the numbers of each model year in the area, whether people with the older cars (phase I 2.5) maybe trying to find local independent shops to save money, etc. Could be a lot of factors, but I found it interesting. He didn't have any numbers or percentages, just confirmed that they do *alot* of HG work :rolleyes: And, he stated if you have a non-turbo 2.5 with a HG failure that is not under warranty (meaning that you're paying for the parts and labor yourself) that you should ask to have the HGs for the turbo installed as they are a better HG - supposedly having an extra layer of gasket material over the non-turbo HG. If it's under warranty, they can only replace the HG Subaru requires for that particular model engine - makes sense. So, just an FYI.

Ok, I'm laughing now. I decided for price comparison to call a local dealer, White Bear Acura/Subau in the Twin Cities. Asked what the "labor only" cost would be to replace both struts, axles, and bearings - $1,600 This was just to get an idea of what is involved. When I ask how much time was calculated to do just the wheel bearing - 9 hours. For the axles - 3 hours. The time for the axles seems reasonable, but why are wheel bearing so time consuming?

I'm looking at worst case senarios for cost. The bearing kit for both bearings and seals runs $55 to $85 from 1stsubaruparts.com and subarupartsyou.com respectively )I'm waiting on an email from 1stsubaruparts.com to confirm that what I look up is indeed a kit for both sides, not just for 1 wheel, that price seems low for both sides) Still, not bad if it's just for one side. And will definitely go with MWE for the remanufactured axles. wheel bearing part - 28016AA011NT KIT So, I have to determine if that cost is worth the "preventive maintenance" to have the bearings replaced now as long as wheels are coming off anyway to do the axles and the struts. I don't know if I want to mess with finding some used hub assemblies to swap - but I'll consider it. And as you stated, I still need to nail down exactly what all is failing...

My 96 OBW has started to have the tell-tale signs of either a failing front axle(s) or wheel bearing(s). I *think* by the sounds, kind of a thud, thud, thud, that varies with wheel speed and is pronounce when corning, especially in right turns, that it's most likely the CV axle on the front driver side. BTW, tires just replaced, but it was starting to make noises 10K ago, even before I redid the brakes (new rotors and pads). It's gotten a little worse since, but not terrible *yet*. So, I'm pricing parts on bearings (and seals), axles, and probably new struts - I have not done this kind of work before, so I've been calling some local shops for labor only estimates. What amazes me is I'm getting a labor time quote of approximately 5 hours if I were to have just the front bearings done. That seems ridiculous - can anyone experienced with the work involved give me what should be reasonable estimate for time it should take for an experienced mechanic? I would try to do the work myself, but now is not a good time in my schedule to tinkering with work I have not attempted before and have this car out of commission for several days (shade tree mechanic you know...) I'm assuming since the work is all front drive/suspension related that I should get a break on labor rates. Am I wrong?

Have at it... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78781&highlight=directory 1stsubaruparts.com will probably be one of the cheaper...

When I replaced my alt on the 96 OBW with ~180k, I ordered a Subaru rebuilt through Jason at Auburn, WA. The rebuilt has it's middle core around the outside body painted a drab green, the original had no markings or painted surfaces. Replacements may have similar markings - I'm not sure. Just thought I'd mention it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53745&highlight=trailer+brakes http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77378 Your vehicle will tow the trailer just fine, but trailer brakes are a big plus and how much load you'll have inside your vehicle needs to be in the equation. In addition to the info found in the threads above, pay attention to the hitch-tongue weight, make sure the tow vehicle is in good shape, and drive safely.

You'll be fine, the car battery acts as a large capacitor during peak loads anyway, and will certainly handle sustained loads within voltage tolerances from it's reserve capacity for longer periods - with or without the alternator's help. I use to run a high-powered car audio system (2 120w/ch x 2 amps, 1st gen disc-changer - Sony's disc jockey - not exactly power friendly) for well over an hour at a time, at high output with the engine turned off before starting it up and recharging for 10-15 minutes. That was quite frequent with a gathering of friends in the evenings at a local park. Never had a problem - and that was on a GM vehicle :-p (if that really makes any difference). Of course that was with the proper dedicated wiring supplying power direct from the battery. To the main electrical system, an additional 10 amp load is nothing.... but I do have to agree with Jamal, the wiring on the cigarette lighter circuit, and even the fuse wire on the back of the lighter socket tend to be smaller gauge capacity than I'd like to see (on Subarus). But you'll probably be fine - and if you blow anything it will be most likely that thermo-fuse wire on the back of the lighter socket.

No signs of overheating on mine, and I ocassionally pull a trailer (2200lbs) - longest trip from Texas to the Twin Cities in June of 05. Car was manufactured in 06/04.

My stock Potenzas were replaced at 25K, just plain run down, and I did notice some rounding on the outside edges. Replaced with Yokohama's Avid H4S, and have been fairly happy with them for 18K. Not the greatest on new fallen snow or on ice, so if you looking for a good high performance that handles snow and ice well (does one really exist?) I'd look elsewhere or consider dedicated snows. I did have an alignment done by a dealer when I had them mounted and balanced and so far seem to be wearing evenly. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+H4S I would have considered the V4S, but like many of the high speed V-rated/soft rubber offerings, the tread life seemed dismal. My best guest-a-mite is I'll get 35-45K of good treadlife out of these. I would agree with the majority consensus of reviews on TireRack, but I will give a better account of these tires when I have gone though their entire life and have to be replaced. BTW, in regards to your other thread on the alignment, I have the before/after alignment readout the dealer did on mine, but it is in my files in a storage locker which at the moment I can't get too. I'll post it when I can get to it, if you're interested.

Since the symptoms seem to be speed related: Do you drive on particularly dusty or muddy roads often? If so, you might simply have a dirty sensor that is border line sensing - try using a high pressure (not too high) sprayer at local car wash and cleaning the inside wheels from underneath. Otherwise, physically inspecting the sensors on the inside wheel may be needed, and spray cleaning with a non-chlorine brake cleaner. While rare, the ABS sensors can also get damaged by continually abrasive road sand, dust, etc. Might be something else totally, like the charging system Porcupine73 eluded to, but that is where I'd start...

Good to hear you found a car you like, enjoy you new Subie..!

Yep. And the reseal kits are inexpensive @ $20 (complete set of seals for both wheels). Wish I had known about that a few years ago, would have done it then just for preventative maintenance. I had always figured the seals would be expensive and cost prohibitive.

Your point it taken. However, whatever minimal swelling there is I think is negligable, not any worse than when rubber shrinks from drying out. I've notice no issues to date on the original brake boots when I would inspect them during tire rotations, 12 years and now just replaced on my last brake job. I'd rather have the rubber soft and plyable than to have it dried out and cracking more rapidly over time because of the natural oils in the rubber removed by products like brake cleaner which tends to be very harsh on rubber (chlorine mention above as an example). I'm sure that brake grease too, whatever formulation, will have some petroluem distulates, along with the heat generated from braking, are both enemies to rubber over time - (seals in the engine). But al least there are some elements that help compensate keeping the rubber plyable if it must come in contact with it. But you're right, neither is good, simple cleaning with cotton or foam swabs is best, and using a silicon-based lubricant for the rubber. http://aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

I don't think you want to be using brake cleaner on any rubber, plastic or paint - very bad. You're better off spraying the rubber boots down with PB Blaster.... Brake cleaner is fine for the metal surfaces. Update: Well a quick google on brake cleaner, and there does appear to be several products out there that claim their formulas will not harm rubber, plastic, and paint. - so now I dont know. I'm checking my can of PB Blaster as I was sure I read it is safe on rubber.... yep "PB restores life to "O" rings and rubber seals", but " may affect some plastics". I always figure it was better to use PB to clean out the rubber boots than brake cleaner.

Sorry to tell ya, that a faux scoop - no functioning purpose other than for looks, unless it has been modified with a Turbo (unlikely). Turbos were not available on stock Outbacks until the 2005 MY. http://www.cars101.com/outback_archive98-99.html The basic 2.5L (phase I and II) is a good engine. The mid to late 90s has some issues though with the Head Gaskets: http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html If you're looking for a 2.2 or 2.5 Turbo, I can tell you I relish my 05 OBW 2.5 Turbo, which now has 42K. Very strong pull when the turbo starts to spool up, and just forces a smile out of me everytime. It **requires** 91 octane, and there is a penalty in gas mileage when a heavy foot is driving. For high mileage and age in terms of performance, reliability and maintenance opinions, those who own them will chime in to tell ya what they think.

Are you seeing a level drop in the radiator itself, or the overflow, or both? MY 96 OBW sees the overfull *slowly* lowers overtime, no visable leaks (external anyway) the radiator remains full/clean/no bubbles, so I assume it's just evaporation HGs done at 138K, currently at 223K

For my older sube, I've been using Walmart's SuperTech SAE10-40, last paid a month ago was $7.50 for 5 quarts, and a Puralator premium filters (not the Pure One though) for $2.96 a piece at Fleet Farms. I usually stock up on the filters, so the price has probably gone up on those now. Those 90s Legacies and Outbacks are a joy to change oil on. Can't think of another vehicle I've changed oil on thats as easy....Subaru got the design right on those. 12 years and 223K and still chugging....

You need to check whether it would bolt-on and line-up correctly on your bracket. Subaru has a couple of slightly different configuration over model years that won't necessary swap in easy in another application. Are you sure the price of a rebuilt Impreza Alt is 3-times as much? I'd call Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru in WA to confirm that. That's where I bought my rebuilt for my 96 OBW for around $65 with core exchange. I just can't believe there would be much difference for the Impreza for a Subaru OEM rebuilt. Mike Scarff Subaru (Jason in parts) Website: n/a Phone: 866-528-5282 Email: jdouglas@mikescarffsubaru.com Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: OEM Parts - New

That's a good point, though with typical car 12volt sockets having a 15amp fuse in the box for that circuit (allowing 180watts) you'd think they would have spec'd the socket itself to handle above that. But never assume..... I'm sure it has something to do with the heat dissipation from the cigarette lighter itself, as to make sure the entire socket body never gets hot enough to start melting the surrounding plastic dash trim :-p Most of the sockets have a special thermal fuse on their back for that type of protection. Your Dad's may of been more sensitive to that. It took the full output of a 350watt inverter to melt the socket wire on my 96 OB.

Probably not. If the saw draws even 1 amp (120vac X 1amp = 120watts), you're over the limit, especially when a inverter will add losses from stepping the 12vdc from you car's battery up to 120vac for you tool(s). A useful calculator (there are many out there, just google): http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw2.html (on a side note) check out that website's calculator(s) for automotive functions: http://www.csgnetwork.com/automotiveconverters.html :cool: I don't think I've seen a inverter larger than 400watt output for direct plug into a cigarette lighter. Most car manufacturers don't wire and fuse their 12volt plug-ins to carry high power capacity (though a 400watt inverter is fairly substantial to run many things). Power tools tend to draw more amperage than other devices. Any inverters larger than 400watts will usually require direct connect to the battery via aligator clips, or a custom installation.

I've removed the instrument gauges from my 96 OBW a couple of times - easy. There are 4 screws holding the cluster in the dash from the inside rim (bezel). You can get the gauge cluster out without removing the steering wheel but it is a tight fit. Tilt the steering column all the way down and put a soft towel over it and the wheel to prevent any scratches. If I remember correctly there will be two cable harnesses you will have to disconnect after you get the gauges out far enough. I'm not aware of any cosmetic changes on the 01 that would make pulling the cluster out any different.

Thought it would be useful for an all-in-one-place directory listing since the topic comes up from time to time for recommendations on where to buy OEM. aftermarket, performance, and specialty parts and services. Feel free to add any other sites: 1stSubaruParts Website: http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Phone: 800-261-7366 Email: parts@1stsubaruparts.com Online Inquiries: https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/email.html Product Notes: OEM Parts - New CobbTuning Website: http://www.cobbtuning.com/categories/?id=2201 Phone: 801-713-0035 Email: sales@cobbtuning.com tech@cobbtuning.com Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: Performance Upgrades - aftermarket components, engine kits and services PDX Tuning Website: http://www.pdxtuning.com/ Phone: 503-624-2919 Email: sales@pdxtuning.com Online Inquiries: http://www.pdxtuning.com/contact.htm Product Notes: Performance Upgrades - aftermarket components and services SubaruPartsForYou Website: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ Phone: 888-206-6206 Email: sales@SubaruPartsForYou.com Online Inquiries: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_contact.php Product Notes: OEM Parts - New Mike Scarff Subaru (Jason in parts) Website: n/a Phone: 866-528-5282 Email: jdouglas@mikescarffsubaru.com Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: OEM Parts - New SubaruGenuineParts Website: http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ Phone: n/a Email: sales@subarugenuineparts.com Online Inquiries: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/contact_us.php Product Notes: OEM Parts - New Wedde's Auto Center and Sales Email: http://www.getusedsubaru.com/ Phone: 610-837-6411 Email: n/a Online Inquiries: http://www.getusedsubaru.com/contact2.htm Product Notes: OEM Parts - Used AllSubaru Website: http://www.allsubaru.com/ Phone: 800-426-1332 Email: n/a Online Inquiries: http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=214117 Product Notes: OEM Parts - New CCR - Colorado Component Rebuilders, Inc Website: http://www.ccrengines.com Phone: 303-293-9230 Email: CCRInc@aol.com Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: Engine - Rebuilders MWE - MW Enterprises, Inc. Website: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html Phone: 303-522-8070 Email: mwolf1303@juno.com Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: Axles - Remanufactured etrailer Website: http://www.etrailer.com/ Phone: 800-298-8924 Email: n/a Online Inquiries: http://www.etrailer.com/contact.aspx#contact Product Notes: Towing - Hitches, Balls, Ballmounts, Tow-Bars, Brake Controllers, Cargo Carriers, Bike Racks, Tranny Coolers, Electrical, Winches, Locks, Mirrors, Tools, Hitch Covers, Trailer Parts, Vehicle Accessories, Off-Road 4x4 CAR-PART.COM Website: http://www.car-part. com Phone: n/a email: n/a Online Inquiries: n/a Product Notes: Used Auto Parts Market

Damn!! Thanks AndyJo, that's all great info....