Flowmastered87GL

Ummm try tightening the rear axle nuts. I had an 88 Gl wagon and it turned out that the right rear axle nut was loose. The rear suspensions tend to squeak alot after 200K it seems. (I swear mine has no bushings left) Where about are you in the valley?? There are alot of us in portland area and albany area too. Beaverton OR here

I didnt see that other one :cornfuzz:

OR that 84 wagon was an 85 that was made in 11/84 or something The trim IS different (the 85-86 stuff is not as tall)

The Durango may have beat Luke, but Eric beat the Durango I got 7th place for the season in Truck/SUV cause I only got the MPV thing going for me for the last 2 events

Probably the person who never sent my cargo cover :madder: Come to think of it... I have not yet received my subaru owners do it on all 4 sticker :cornfuzz: (not saying that one is a rip though) If we did have a rating system... whats to keep a person from making extra accounts and making fake purchases from themselves to rack it up?? The word of mouth and experience works very well I think. People who have earned a very good reputation in my book: Edrach DrRX HondaSucks Caboobaroo BajaVWScoobnut Skip RichieRich I'm sure ive completed business with more people, but those 7 always came through with my money or parts or labor. And Andrew has had to come up with over $1800 over the past year Not sure how much ive sent his way... over $2000 im sure

Woo hoo 4th place this event Season standings: Open class: 16th place with 12 pts. (1 event) Truck/SUV class: 7th place with 28 pts. Not bad for only having 2 events to earn that spot The 4th event... the first actually... I ran time only cause I didnt know about the MPV thing at the time...

Rent a U-haul pickup and tow dolly.... drive down 10 miles... disconnect the speedometer cable.... get the brat drive all but 10 miles home... reconnect cable... turn in the truck with 20 miles on it

It was the positive terminal on the starter... thats why jumper cables wouldnt help at all

Ok your car has 112K on it and the cable broke.... ummmm well think about it... most cars in the junkyard will probably have 50K more than your car... could you really trust that cable?? Its worth it to get a genuine subaru one... maybe use a junkyard one til the suby one comes in.... but get a new subaru one

The white EA81 wagon belongs to GLCraigGT, the Gen 1 BRAT belongs to a new member luker I believe is the name he is using, the white EA82 wagon is Andrews, the Forester is Jasons, the hatch is Zaps, the silver wagon is mine the brown DL brat is Eric Rachners, the black brat is Johns, the red EA82 wagon is a friend of Johns (160HP or so ), the blue 76 is jasons, the blue hatch is kens and of course the RX is yours Mark Ummm I think that covered all of them

I see my car in the pits... thats good enough for me.... its a pretty good picture

Luke... its mike with the silver 87 wagon at the rallycross.... got an extra weber you want to sell to me for my 82 BRAT?? I already have the adapter and I am going to have it rebuilt... I am looking for a 32/36 with electric choke. Hmmmm it wont let me PM you for some reason... So please e-mail me at the_great_mikeholio@yahoo.com

Any of my GL??

Ya, other than the EGR I belive they are identical.... I know for a fact that the head gaskets are identical on SPFI's

there should be pushrods in there.... remember that crate of stuff I got from SubaruSyndrome Andrew?? I belive it had a pushrod or 2 in it

I suggest removing the pedal from the mount... its alot easier to attach the cable to it that way. The hardest part in my mind was to get the 2 bolts on the mount for the cable in place... 1 is easy 1 is hard. The cable is only like $17 so it will take you 1.5 hours tops hopefully and be reasonably cheap

I'm gonna be there around 11:30 hopefully... I need time to swap my tires over and unload all the stuff from the car to make it safe to run

I tension mine too.... the torque you are supposed to apply varies... on my 88 I had to do 17 lbs or so because it had new belts AND head gaskets.... otherwise 12 sounds about right. Supposibly if you dont tension them they are more prone to eat teeth like my 86 turbowagon did... those belts were NOT pretty when they came out of that engine

You deal with the belt that is closest to the REAR of the engine first... it would be kinda hard to deal with the front one first :brolleye:

The manual is wrong... install the drivers one, turn the engine 360 degrees, then cam will now be pointing at 6 o clock, then install the passenger one

Ok.... first to go on is the drivers belt. So put the flywheel in the middle of the 3 marks with no numbers on them. Then start the belt on the crank, then go down to the oil pump, then to the idler, then up to the cam. The cam should have the little dot on it pointing UP. When the belt is fully on make sure everything is still lined up, then let the tensioner make contact with the belt. Torque the belt from the cam pully somewhere between 12 and 18 lbs (depending on belt condition i belive) and then tighten the tensioner whereever its sitting. Then turn the crank 360 degrees. Now do the same on the passenger side... start from the crank, go to the cam (dot pointing up) then back.... do the same preloading on the belt here. As a reference when doing the passenger side, the driver side dot on the cam will now be pointing DOWN... that means you are doing it right

Ummm to tighten the alternator look at the back of the long pivot bolt... this is the BajaVWSCoobnut method.... use a 14mm combination wrench on the back nut (use the open end as its not a perfect hex) then use the wrench to put tension on the belts... then tighten up the outher 12mm bolt... you now have tight belts and can do it singlehandedly too

I bet my brat is the rustiest you've seen around here huh Rick? Its the rustiest ive seen. for those that dont know: Rust holes to be fixed: Firewall spare tire area Door sill spots Bottom of front fenders (just gonna chop off like subarujunkie) Right rear fender well Former jump seat mounting area (to be fixed with leftover metal from bobbing the rear) When all is said and done it will look good again.... and the frame is totally solid dispite all this rust on it