ford'ssubaru's

I am only throwing out a suggestion to you. I am not looking at your car in front of me but if it were me I would break it down. Typical fwd cars have a shorter shaft but this is an awesome Subi so the shafts are the same length unless of course it is a Justi(i believe). So what is next... I would check the splines on the hubs them selves. I am slow to judge other mechanics (only because I am not looking at your ride myself) some things are easily missed. They may not have been paying that close attention and the splines were just barely grabbing on oneside enabling the car to still move forward. Kind of a different thought when your dealing with differentials. Here is an interesting thought. If you engage AWD does it still pull? That would be an interesting clue. Many posts on USMB on the whole spline thing. If it were me. Put the front on jackstands to ensure there are no brakes dragging and such. Love to here what the others have to say.

mikaleda thanks I will try this...

Yes, very easy

Thanks for the compiment. Right back at ya. So really as far as prep I clean like my other equipment. I clean the surfaces and apply high-tack to the removeable side and dry. Install. Maybe the high tack is causing the gasket to squeeze?

I have put 3 sets of intake gaskets in this car... Any ideas...

How many headgaskets were changed because of the intake gaskets?

Any comments on the turnnout?

Ditto

What I do is set 1 ant tdc compression. Veriify by timing mark on flywheel. Install dist at 1 plugwire and adjust accordingly.

Nope, I see your in MA. Reuse it if your in a pinch or let any of us know and the next time were at Pull and Save I send ya one...

I actually know where Tulare is. Personally from Stockton. Anyhow like Eeyore said. Something is missing. There are alot of us that are mechanics that get this wrong. MilesFox is dead on target. There is an awesome thread on Timing. Reset your distributor timing. Cheers, Eric

Yes, It has been that way for awhile. That was most likely done on a previoius repair by someone prying on the pulley. If I were a bettin man I would say that someone previous to you put a chain wrench around it to get the crankbolt off. You can see that somene has had that bolt out before. Go to the wrecking yard, get another one and slap it on there and call it good. Don't put that one back on. Just my advice though. Cheers,' Eric

Very nice job! What size is the steel?

I got this from Mugs last friday. He had some awesome idea's.

Hello, Anyone ever built a Subaru trailer? I am going to give it a whirl. What do ya all thing?

Great! Keenserts or Nutsert are better easier and stronger than a helicoil.

I am not being sarcasted please don't beat me up but I would love to really back way up to the beginning. Is the OP er even sure of the extent of the original problem. We could be confusing him with alot of time and money he may not need to do. I like the fact that the car has low miles. Holy cow I want that motor..... I ran my first EA82 for almost 300K When the heads went they were junk. I like the post about taking them both off and have them pressure tested. I am sure that is what Mikaleda meant. I took the heads off for the motor I mentioned off an EA82 with 160k to the machine shop and they did both for 150.00 which I was happy with because they looked good and completely resealed. Now this is just my opinion. It is not that hard to do a set of heads just takes patience.

Love the title!

My dad once told me that son you won't find a better car, referring to the 79 Brat that he bought new, but know one thing, all Subaru's leak, all Subaru's tick, but most important they all run and run and run. I've alway liked that.

I should of said intake but it is hard to type and drive on my computer...LOL.

This is an awesome thread!

Or get another intake.....That is also a good idea.

Naw relax bro! If you were Spokompton i'd go and help you with it so I will do my redneck best to walk you through it. The reason machine shops make so much money is because we (me included) are impatient. First of all we need to clear away, the best you can, the area around the thermostat. Then you put the small brazing tip on a torch set. If you dont have a torch set I actually did a similar thing using a small butane torch from Radio Shack. Lay wet rags around the work area. Now this is where the patience comes in. The idea is to heat up the bolt but not damage the block. Heat it up really hot then let it cool down slowly on its own. Walk away, shoot guns or something. Do this 2 or 3 times you will know when metal and the easy out is breaking down. You will need new hardened steel bits and slow down your trigger finger on your high speed drill. Slower is better in this case. Try this and have a beer. Cheers, Eric

My son did this over las weekend. Found at the wrecking yard.

Very true...