ford'ssubaru's

Hello, I have had the same trouble with no-spark and figuring out the search engine. Using the search engine be general and not specific. Then you can see your information. If you search starting problems, or no start. You will see multiple testing procedures. A lot of times I will just Google it and click on the USMB links. As for your no start issue there are multiple common problems. First remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is spinning and that there is a little screw holding the rotor in place. This screw likes to fall out and go to the bottom of the distributor. Then look at the distributor carefully and make sure there is no moisture either at the base of the distributor or the underside of the cap. Also make sure the center plunger is in place and in good condition under the cap. With the cap off turn the engine over by had and make sure that the distributor rotor is turning. Then place your test light on the coil and make sure there is power to the coil. Although I doubt it is your coil but that is just a feeling. If you go to your chiltons it will tell you how to test the coil if you really want to. Try these things first and then we will go from there. Cheers, Eric

Is this car running?

It really is pretty simple. I am not a computer guy so I don't know how these other guys post a link. I GOOGLED "how do I adjust my throttle position sensor on my 1990 Subaru loyale and one of the hits is on this forum. He has a picture out of a chiltons or something that gives step by step resistance checks and adjustment.

Well, By reading your all's posts I did these things. Remove the left and right cover and checked timing again and it was dead on. I removed the 1 sparkplug and rotated engine to tdc then the align holes on the timing gears were out and up and out and down and that looked right. The pointer on the case was at 0 which was assuring. Well the distributor was not at 1.....So I pulled the distributor and disassemble it. I noticed that one the rubber plugs was missing on the side of the distributor. There appeared to be a little drop of water in the corner I thought was odd. When I removed the distributor and turned it upside down ALOT of water came out! So I removed the rotor. I remove the metal cover plate and drain the dog gone thing. I sprayed a bunch of lectromotive in there and blew it out with air. Well I lined the alignment mark to the mark on the case of the distributor and dropped it in. Since I had this thing this far I made a spark plug jumper and got a new plug and checked all my spark wires. Oddly one wire (and they were new) was week. I switched it with one of the old wires and was fine. So I disassembled the new wire and reconnected the ends. I cleaned the MAF and installed. Dialectric Grease in the connector. I removed the TPS and cleaned and installed dialectric grease. I readjust the TPS in accordance with Ultimate Subaru Dot Org... Booyah thank you very much. I tested the coil and it was good. I reassembled every thing and started it up. I adjusted the timing and the idle.... Runs Great!

Well did you get it started? You know I was having the same problem and step by step without any shortcuts. Holy smokes there can be a lot of little hiccups. Finally mine ran. Hope yours is going well. Cheers, Eric

Finally figured it out by combining all the threads. Step by Step and no shortcuts!

Very nice!

This is a sweet ride!

I really feel like an idiot........Why won't it run without the boot? I have been trying to figure out why it won't run? Is it because of the MAF sensor? Thanks, Eric

Now this is happening to me. I removed and cleaned all the sensors and still nothing.....

Well I bypassed the fuel pump relay and the same thing....... :-(

Yes it is SPFI but what really confuses me is when I first turn the key in the "run" position it doesn't buzz or click like it has done in the past. It only tries to pump in the run position.....?

Hello all, Hope ya'all don't beat me up to bad I think I have to go back to basics. My son's subie went to the ORV park then he went back to Military AIT and the car was sitting in the driveway. When we went to move it it would barely run. So there was a couple of repair needed on the harness that I have read and wanted to look at and I did. Then I decided to do a tune-up on the car. Well now it starts and does not stay running. First question on the fuel pump. Is the pump supposed to pump in the "run" position? Mine does not it starts pumping in the start position....? Help...........Please? Thanks, Eric

Hello all, Hope ya'all don't beat me up to bad I think I have to go back to basics. My son's subie went to the ORV park then he went back to Military AIT and the car was sitting in the driveway. When we went to move it it would barely run. So there was a couple of repair needed on the harness that I have read and wanted to look at and I did. Then I decided to do a tune-up on the car. Well now it starts and does not stay running. First question on the fuel pump. Is the pump supposed to pump in the "run" position? Mine does not it starts pumping in the start position....? Help...........Please? Thanks, Eric

Hey Josh, I think you can just swap long blocks 1 for 1 and keep all you turbo and everything the same.....There are much more experienced guys on here than me though. Cheers, Eric

OK, Being an equipment guy I have a little Kubota? What about that? Any ideas. Peace, Eric

Hello, My biggest recommendation is buy SUBARU head gaskets. All you have to do is compare them side by side with aftermarket and you can see the quality difference. Just my opinion. Peace, Eric

Hello, Mine does it too......LOL. 130,000 miles and runs great! I just never worried bout it. Cheers, Eric

Very Nice!

All you guys are awesome in this thread. I learned so much......Most productive thing I did all day. Guess I had better clock out.....LOL.

Suffering from Brat envy..........

Hello, I believe both of the above are correct. Either way I don't believe you have a major problem....yet. That linkage wears out on your 4WD shifter has a shouldered bolt in it. When it is wollered out or someone has stuck a bolt in it too small it allows the shifter to have a lot of slop making you believe it is in 4Lo when your still in 4Hi. Had this happen on my 87 gl. The fact that it only works in 4wd drive is a common problem also like the above posted. Broken shaft or stripped splines which you can find all kinds of information on this site. Peace, Eric

Hello, On my Son's car it was an intermittent open. I removed the flex loom and started tugging on individual wires and it fell apart. So to answer your question it was a broken wire or in our case it was 2. Thanks, Eric

Well, I would start, If it were me by replacing the thermostat. It is very possible it stuck in the closed position. That is why you had no heat and the gauge jumped. I suspect your car did get hot. The squealing very well could have been your AC compressor clutch. It still cycles even in the cold I believe. If your fan is blowing and only cold air it is not your blower motor unless the squealing was from your dash. Just some ideas. Thanks, Eric

Hello, My son is having the same problem. So reading through these issues I just reached down on the harness where it goes along the intake and lifted it a hair. Killed the motor. So I stripped off the loom and guess what........ Just like the above said. Thanks Again, Eric