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So I did the typical post a need for something and didn't check back on the forum. I got swept away and forgot all about it. I've been working on my garage getting everything in order, and more importantly making more space for my project(s). Moosens thanks for the reply, I apologize for getting back so late. I wouldn't necessarily be against a trip to Connecticut but it's an awkward time to travel right now, if you even still have the block. i'll check back when the worst of this covid is behind us. Hope you all are safe.

Hey fellow old timers, long time no talk. Finally getting to a point where I want to work on my other Brat, but it turns out the block I had is rusted out to near complete oblivion inside the cylinders. I do not think I can salvage it. So I am looking for a usable EA71. I'm no longer in the west coast, and have since moved to Georgia, so let me know if there's one on my side of the world I can grab. Thanks guys.

Hey you found USMB, good. Hope you find what you are looking for. Guys here are very knowledgable and friendly.

Hey thanks Wiclipse. I can't remember where I got the black carpet. It was one of the major auto part companies online like Andy's, or Auto Geek. I don't recommend it though, it was cut pretty poorly, and didn't cover everything. Doing it again I'd have rather taken it somewhere to get a custom insert put in. As for the Brat in this thread, however, I have since traded it away and no longer own it, as of about 3 weeks ago. The new owner says he plans to take it to Michigan, so hopefully it won't rot to death out there, but who knows. I will start another thread on my yellow one if/when I get some time to dig in on it. It's just been sitting in my garage for a year and haven't had any time really to start in on it, yet.

Ahh so KevinT sold it huh? Good luck with the build.

Different vehicles and differentials, but when I took my brat in, the oil in the rear dif was so coagulated, it didn't even drip off the plug, it was almost like a gel, and the color was pitched black, with a slight green tinge. The poor dif was due for an oil change years before I owned it. Despite that, she still ran fine, and does today.

Saw this guy on auto trader today. Getting rid of her already?

It seems FB is saturated with overlap. The old school group has been there for quite some time already. I'm not sure if you've seen/heard of it: https://www.facebook.com/groups/55757792531/

One question though that I haven't quite figured out. When I make a very sharp left or right hand turn (obviously at low speeds) I get what sounds like metal tapping metal, I assume from the stabilizer bar. Anyone know why this may be occuring? It's definitely not a wheel bearing clunk (god I'd hope not since I changed them out), but more of a tap tap tap on metal, until I straighten the wheel.

Little status update. Took her to work twice this week and she did fine on the road. Surprisingly quiet on the highway (all the dynamat helps), and no random rattles and shakes I used to get going 65 mph. Startups, especially cold, remain a problem. It appears to be affiliated with the choke. It seems my throttle plate doesn't close after the engine cools off and I blip the throttle. I had been playing with the choke trying to make it not too tight and not too lose, it just seems gummed up, so I will clean all the linkages and see if I can dial it in better.

Well if you have the knuckle out, the axle is a piece of cake. Just take the pin off and pull. I would replace your wheel bearings too if you're that far into it. Why not? They're cheap

Nice story. Glad you came up with the part

I too would love to purchase reproduction parts and would like to assist if at all possible as well.

So the clutch problem is fixed, it's registered, and I have successfully taken this thing out for about a 3 mile drive. She runs great! I had to lean out the carb a little, and it can be a bit stubborn in the cold mornings but the truck drives, rolls, stops, and runs overall fantastic. I've still got bodywork to do, and paint eventually but I feel like I've resurrected this guy to close to it's former glory. Another brat on the road! More pics to come as I take them. Thanks for all of your help and support USMB. You guys have been a great wealth of knowledge on this journey so far. I really do, sincerely, appreciate all of it.

Welcome. Nice car you have there. Hope she's gremlin free

Hey guys. Thought I'd update here. So I have it all working tip-top now, but I had to "rig" it a little. So I ended up getting a very tight lateral spring and spinning the lock nut all the way back to put as much load on the fork as possible. Like this, I was able to drive it --- but I couldn't reliably shift into gear all of the time. The Clutch was not disengaging fully. So, I ended up stacking a small washer and a small lock washer in front of the nut and it gives me the pre-load I need to shift properly. The washers don't slip out of the groove, so I think it's safe to drive this way, but I still wish I could've just used the cable the way it was intended. Oh well, at least she drives now. Thanks for everyone's input.

Wow what a sweet RX. Wish I could find one myself

I use stop tech for daily use. Work great, low dust. Relatively inexpensive.

I second a compression test.

So I bent the plates a little bit to give it more lateral pull and it seems to have helped. I'm now able to shift. It still seems tight but it goes now. So yay? Anyway my uncle is coming by tomorrow to help me tune the motor and carb, so we will see how it does in the street.

Well, much to my dismay, there is still a lingering problem. Got the brat started but it still does not shift properly, or at all, really. I can fight it into 2nd and 3rd, but 1st, 4th and R do not go at all. I have incrementally inched the cable adjustment back until it has gone back as far as you can tighten the nut. The pedal also feels sloppy too. Not as bad as before the cable change but it still doesn't have resistance until about 40% depressed. I'm clueless here.

I think it's 40A? I could be (and probably am) mistaken. I'd wait for one of the resident gurus to chime in.

My subaru dealership was able to order them, for like $30 a piece. Which is outrageous. I believe most people either make their own fusible links (can get fusible wire from Auto parts store) or just put in an inline fuse/breaker.

Thanks moosens. I'll check just that. The previous owner did not have the clutch cable suspended latterally against the cover plate on the firewall. It wasn't in fact til I put a spring in there with the new cable did it start feeling better. Noel, thanks for the offer. My motivation levels with this project have such highs and lows. Maybe I just need someone to crack the whip to finish this stupid thing up, heh!

Have to agree with the standing members. You take those apart and paint them yourself. Stop acting like a troll.