GeneralDisorder

Problem with it being just the front O2 (which could be a possible source of the crappy mileage) is that the front O2 is ignored by the computer till it gets hot enough to start reporting - which occurs at approximately 600* F. If the problem gets better as the engine warms up then the sensor is probably ok because that's exactly the time that the ECU would begin using the sensor for it's fuel calculations. I would say that you need to test the coolant temp sensor. It's very possible that the sensor is telling the computer that the car is warmer or colder than it really is and thus the fuel mixture is incorrect. Have you plugged in a code scanner and checked for codes? A high quality code scanner can tell you what temp the CTS is reporting. That can be very helpful. GD

Check www.car-part.com for a used replacement transmission. It's very likely that it just needs a rear input shaft bearing - which is about $65 from the dealer. Pull the tranny and check it for input shaft play. It's not that hard to install the input bearing. If you can do HG's on a 25D then you can split the tranny and replace that bearing. GD

Personally I wasn't that impressed with the Drill Doctor. We got the big one at the shop I used to work for and it takes forever to use it on larger chipped up bits. I can sharpen a bit 10x faster on a bench grinder and a bench grinder has so many more uses that if I had to choose between the two it wouldn't be much of a contest. Get a small one from Harbor Frieght and put a wire wheel where the coarse stone was. Dual purpose - grinding and thread cleanup. GD

You really can't over torque them. The bearings are seperated by a spacer that sets the preload on them. More torque just means higher clamping force on the axle shaft by the cone washer. It won't hurt the bearings any. Inspect the edges of the cone washer. They should be smooth and without any lip on the large OD of the washer. The split in them needs to be free of burrs and clean so it can clamp down on the axle shaft. The mating surface in the hub also needs to be clean and smooth. If you can, post a close-up picture of the cone washer for us. GD

Find a new mechanic. GD

Cam and crank seals should be done every timing belt. No exceptions. One doesn't cause the other to fail. They get old, hard, and they leak. Simple as that. GD

I'm sure we could put another tranny in it. 4 speeds are cheap. When I have them I sell them for $50. GD

Are you SURE that it's not stripped hub splines? This is much more common than front diff failure and the symtoms are the same. Look under the car while it's in 2WD and doing it's "grinding" thing - if the inner axle cups are spinning then you have bad hub splines. 4 speed's don't usually experience front differential failure. None of the MT's do really. That would be an extremely rare failure. GD

I beleive it was, yes. I beleive the turbo 4EAT was also 3.7 and the non-turbo 3AT was 3.9. GD

No such animal actually. They went from the 3AT to the 4EAT. GD

Our Maxima's are also transverse FWD. And our Z32's are also RWD :-p. GD

Used will do you no good. They are all shot. Here was my repair - cost about $15 for the parts. That was over 3 years ago and about 30k miles. No signs of any kind of problem. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=37471 GD

That seems very unlikely. How did you determine it's the tranny? GD

Pretty unlikely to find any 22T's in good condition at the u-pull-it type places. People know what those are worth and in all my years in the yards around here I've seen maybe two or three. That's in over a decade of junk-yarding. GD

Yeah I think the 300ZX alts are the same size and ear pattern for quite a few years. Problem is the Z31 alts are only 70 amp and the Z32 alts are 80 amp - compared to the Maxima at 90 amp. And both are harder to find in the yards. The Maxima alts are plentiful, cheap to buy new (for some reason Z32 alts are up around $200 and Z31 alts are the same price as Maxima units), and more powerful. GD

Yeah the parts arean't actually that bad from Subaru. I wouldn't mess with aftermarket junk. GD

Bearing puller wouldn't work - not any that I've seen anyway. You use a large steel or brass drift and a BIG hammer. The biggest mistake people make when trying to knock out bearings, or really anytime you want to MOVE some serious metal is not using the right tool. If you want to move something the size of a 6207 that's been in place for years inside a net-zero type of housing fitment..... 4lb hammer and at least a 3/4" thick punch. Brass works but steel is even better. If you absolutely can't get them out pull the knuckle off and bring it to me. I'll remove them for free. But beware - you will be embarrased at how easily I knock them out . If you get bearings (go to a bearing supply house like McGuire and get 6207-2RS-C3's) then I can install those for you at the same time. I built a special install driver for them from a crapped out 6207 outer race, a pipe nipple, and a cap. GD

That's for the whole car with engine - he would drive it home. If you just want me to do the engine - considerably less. I completely rebuilt a 251 and turned it into a frankenmotor for a board member recently for $830 out the door. That's with having the crank undersized .010" on the mains and .020" on the rods, one used connecting rod, block tanked, decked, and honed, new rings/rods/mains, valve job on the heads and resurfaced. And that's fully assembled with OEM head gaskets, block o-rings, rear main, etc. I didn't do the timing belt and water pump nor did I install an oil pump on it. So that's just the short block with heads installed. A 2.0 would be more - mainly due to the DOHC heads which are more costly to rebuild and reshim the valves. Probably closer to $1000. I have a trailer and could come get the car for gas and $100 for my day. It's hard to get away for a whole day anymore GD

I could rebuild it for less than that. Probably be about $800 labor (R&R and dissasemble/reassemble) and around $1000 machine shop and parts costs, etc. Those are high estimates but you never know how many communist gnomes have been making weapons in there . It wouldn't be a two-day turn around at those prices but I could get it done within a reasonable time frame. If he wants fast turn-around his best option is a new engine from Subaru - which is definitely going to run at least $3k plus labor. These engines run about $2500 in "good" used condition. But I wouldn't buy a used 2.0 turbo. That's a gamble I wouldn't take. Besides - I can rebuild it for less than the cost of a used engine. GD

That's not a bad way to go. I like the concept. Keeping the outer seal and only removing the inner would prevent damage to the seal from removal and installation. It also depends on the bearing spec you buy. There are different grades of bearings with different types of grease, etc. I typically by electric motor grade bearings. GD

All that sounds reasonable Your car is cable clutch. I would stick with that. That means 90 to 96 transmissions. And no turbo transmissions. Comes with the clutch kit. Buy ONLY an Exedy kit. Amazon has the best price. All the axles that will fit your car will interchange. Steer clear of turbo transmissions - going to be a headache and you don't need one with an EJ22. Outback tranny from '96 will give nice close ratios with stock Legacy tire sizes. I have some info but I've never done exactly what you are proposing. Though I have a customer that wishes to do this on a '96. You will have to bypass the neutral start inhibitor wires in the plug that went to the automatic shifter. Should be easy to find with a meter. Stay away from the turbo stuff. It will make your swap a much harder and more expensive process with the hydro pull clutch, different flywheel, and all that mess... And it's really uneccesary unless you are pushing over 200 HP or so. The non-turbo 5MT's are just as good and are unlikely to have been abused as much as a cheap WRX tranny. GD

You *should* change to the EJ22 ECU and add the knock sensor. The EJ18's aren't equipped with knock sensors and you really should have one. GD

Sounds like your cone washers are shot to me. GD

Standard EA82 AC tensioner - just replace the bearing and it will be fine. You aren't likely to need a spare in the car's lifetime. GD

Depends on the bearings you use. In the case of the bearings he is installing they come sealed for life and you cannot access the grease cavity. I have NTN and Koyo bearings for EJ cars going on 100k with the grease provided by the manufacturer and haven't had a single failure. It's all about your installation technique and treating the bearings carefully. There ARE bearings that come without grease though. Most of your auto parts store junk brands come dry or with just a smear of something to keep theme from rusting in the box. It's usually pretty easy to tell if the grease is to be used or not. GD