GeneralDisorder

Use some sockets under the center bolts to "simulate" the rocker. After everything has been torqued just remove them and install the rocker then retorque those two. That's how I've always done it. I could make you a socket on my lathe if you really wanted one but the procedure above works just fine. Remember that you are supposed to retorque the bolts after a specified drive interval anyway with stock gaskets so don't worry about loosening and then retorqueing those two bolts. GD

Dr. RX did a swap into an RX not an XT. Though swaps into XT's have been done. What you *don't* want is anything that's under the hood now. The EA82T's are junk and are a dead platform. With an adaptor plate or changing the transmission you can install any of a number of EJ series engines. The USDM or JDM EJ20 WRX engine being probably the logical choice since you have a turbo platform. It's not a small job - you need a whole engine and wireing harness plus custom exhaust, etc. And if you want the car to be able to handle the power you will want an XT6 5-lug conversion, WRX brakes, and the WRX transmission as well - the tranny you have now won't handle that kind of power nor is it setup for the EJ turbo clutch system. Basically you have a body. Everything else will have to be changed. And XT's aren't that common - if you want a common vehicle for a big budget build I'm very surprised you didn't opt for an Impreza coupe. That is the logical choice with everything being basically bolt-on, etc. GD

That's simply not true in all cases. The curve is not simply a linear progression - it's going to depend on the power that's going in as to what drivetrain losses you experience due to friction and heat. For the most part, percentages are a very bad representation of power loss - the power that is lost in a transmission is dependant not only on the design of the transmission but also on how it is being used and at what speeds. To see the error in this thinking one only has to consider what happens when you *change* the engine but not the transmission. If I put a 200 HP engine in a car that was 100 HP before the swap - the transmission and nothing else having been changed - where is that extra power going? All things being equal and assuming an imaginary drivetrain loss of 25% - you are telling me that the transmission was using 25 HP before but now is using 50 HP? Now increased friction from torque, etc are going to exist for sure - but to double the HP being "used up" in the transmission under a constant load does not seem likely. In any case I think we all agree that 27% on a RWD transmission like that is higher than expected. You'll want to be having that checked out and then get in another dyno run to see what it can really pull. Assuming the engine dynoed by itself to 300 HP - I just don't see that kind of loss from your setup. GD

A lot of folks have run about 5 psi or less though the 2.2's without issue. They often get about 200 HP from them under boost. There is a lot more to adding a turbo to a non-turbo car than you think though. GD

27% drivetrain loss? Seems very unlikely. Most transmissions are in the 10% or lower range. Many lower than 5%. GD

No - that red hatch is either early 80's or it's a STD model hatch with the double-round headlights. Not a 70's (or 60's which would be the 360's) roo. Very likely it is the '81 hatch that he thinks it is. I'm in West Linn - bring it by when you get it and I'll tell you what to do to fix it, etc. GD

Get a genuine Hitachi/ND coil. Ditch the condensor - it's for AM radio interferance. You don't need it. Sounds like poor quality coil's to me which is not unheard of. Even a good used one is usually better than a cheap new one. I usually pay about $35 to $40 for a genuine Hitachi. GD

Looking really nice BTW. That's a really neat EA81 with some special features it looks like. Curious - is the source for those steering wheel adaptors still around? We in the states might like some if you can get them or point us in the right direction? GD

Yeah - all USDM STi engines are 300 HP. 220 seems very low. GD

Pull the top off the carb and set it according to the specs found on carbsunimited.com, etc. GD

I know exactly what you mean. It's pretty close to the same here - Impreza's are beat to hell, been wrecked a few times, and the 90 to 94's are just not worth beans. Not enough profit for the work they require which is often more than something newer . GD

The "big" vacuum lines that you plugged are crankcase breather lines and need to be connected to the air filter. You need to fix all the breather and PCV routing before you blow seals out of the engine. Some of your smoking might be caused by excessive crankcase pressure. Otherwise the jetting is wrong or the carb improperly assembled. Jetting sounds good so perhaps the fuel pressure is excessive or the float set too high, etc. GD

So glad you like it! Those are Subaru 14" alloy's - I would think if they came from an OB they would be 15's? But I could be wrong on that. I'm not real familar with factory rim differences across new-gen's. I know my '91 Turbo is 15" and I would assume the OB's would be the same with their upgraded brakes and larger tires.... Basically I had to do a complete reseal on it. Had a small HG leak and was pressureizing the cooling system - previous owners tried a fix in a bottle and clogged up the radiator . Surfaced heads and a reseal fixed it up. Misc. other repairs to get it up on it's maintenance schedule, a weird fuel pump issue from an incorrect previous owner repair, AC recharge, etc and a general once-over of everything else. I'll be getting more in as I find them. If anyone in the OR/WA area is looking for something..... well I delivered this one 275 miles from Portland to Medford so all sorts of things are possible. . I handle mostly the '95+ stuff but the '90 to '94's are very plentiful and I can do those as well - they just aren't worth a lot so I generally pass unless I have a request. GD

In stock form - definitely. But their lower power was on a lighter frame. I have a friend that put an EJ18 into a '90 Legacy and it was rediculous! Car was just too heavy. GD

I always final torque my EA head gaskets to 55. I figure between the extra torque and the Fel-Pro's I don't need a retorque. Hasn't failed me yet. GD

So does my lifted wagon - because I'm using the corner markers as the front blinkers. But it's only because I'm lazy - I don't prefer it that way it just happened. A bit annoying though and I keep thinking I'll get pulled over because there's got to be some cops that would think I have a bulb out because of the fast blink (that's the usual indication). GD

If you use an insturment/marker bulb instead of the turn signal bulb it will flash fast because the resistance in the circuit is lower. You could probably replace the flasher module with something that has a faster delay or is adjustable. I'm sure they must make them for the Honda guys Seems lame though. Why not just leave it be and worry about stuff that's actually important and affects driveability. Sounds like what you really want is a Honda :Flame:Subaru's are all about functionality and reliability. Not so much about flashyness and accesorizing. Frankly hand signals are pretty cool GD

Scary slow and underpowered. This is a good way to get run over. GD

You peen a dent in the pump reservoir with a ball peen hammer - and use the plastic spacer from the Hitachi under the Weber adaptor. Sounds bad but it's not. Just go to town on it and then paint over the area to keep it from rusting. GD

Based on what you are asking for - you do not want a turbo. Parts are harder to find, they crack heads and blow gaskets. Everyone that has thought "I'm not like those other guys" and tries to run them meets with epic fail. There are only a handful of exceptions and in all those cases the costs to do it were far more than just putting in an EJ22 with more power and no turbo. Add a turbo to the EJ22 and it will take on 5psi without failure (on a used engine typically) and give you back 200 HP. Which you will struggle to get from the EA82T even after thousands of $$. Funny enough - the best way to get what you want an insure you know it works right is to build it yourself. If the ultimate plan is to have a turbo D/R 5 speed car then perhaps you *should* buy an EA82T wagon and then install a non-turbo 5 speed D/R transmission. Then when you inevitably decide you must have an EJ22 in order to keep your intestinal bleeding to a minimum then you can drop in an EJ22, boost it to 5 lbs and have a wonderful car. If you want a pure off-road machine you will ultimately be dissapointed with the EA wagons. You will want an EA81 Hatch. That's where this will go for you. Been there and done that. The wagons are too heavy and the wheelbase is too long. The hatch is the platform of choice for lifting and wheeling. People do it with wagons too but most of them have never wheeled a hatch so they don't understand the differences till they see one in action. And there's quite a few people that just lift them for looks and really didn't need to for functionality so it doesn't matter to them. The EA81's (80 to 84) are a way more practical choice off-road. All they need is a fuel injection retro-fit or an EJ22 transplant to make them more capable than any other 80's Subaru platform. That goes for wagon's, Brat's, and Hatch's or the rarer sedans and turbo coupe's that were 4WD. GD

You have an EA81. It is not 1.6L. It is a 1.8. I guarantee it. Look at your intake and exhaust if the compression is good as you indicate. You must have a restriction somewhere. The stock carbs are junk - perhaps the secondary isn't opening? Restricted exhaust (blown up cat, etc) is not uncommon. I've had to gut several cats that were broken up inside. Your engine is 74 HP. Unleash the power by getting as much fuel and air into it as possible and getting the exhaust out. You have to wind them up too. My '83 Hatch get's after it pretty good on a tired, old engine. I have a Weber and cat-free exhaust. And I get over 30 MPG freeway GD

If you can pay a friend $100 to remove and install the hub, then you can have the bearing pressed in/out for just a bit more. Probably save $100 or so. But I could understand if you didn't want to deal with that lower bolt being on the rust coast. Here they aren't an issue but even I looked at that thing and shuddered from the thoughts of what road salt would do to it. It's very exposed down there. GD

All USDM STi's are EJ25's, yes. Specifically the EJ257 but the block will only say EJ25. In all likelyhood the company is being totally honest. GD

It has a fuel pump control unit and sounds as if it's working just fine. There will be no power to the fuel pump except when there is a tach pulse (cranking or running). Sounds like there's no real problem with it to me. If you can't get it running I would look elsewhere for your problem. GD