GeneralDisorder

Depends on which body style it is. GD

You could cross-reference the Gen 1 legacy turbo parts - you would have to swap out the springs as well to get the proper stance. Then you would want to add the larger sway bars. The Legacy turbo suspension is markedly better than the plain jane L series suspension. Sits a bit lower and handles miles better. I'm sure there are better options but I doubt you could beat the value of the stock components and you won't be dissapointed as they were designed specifically for the Legacy's weight and size. GD

Hhmmm - yes were you checking power at the round plug or the two-pin spade terminal to the amp? If you don't have power at the black/white wire on the round plug with the ignition ON then you have a supply issue. I may have mis-understood what you were refering to when you said you had 12v to the amp as both the round plug and the two-pin spade connect to the amp but only the wires from the round plug connect to the coil.... GD

Yeah - just seal the whole opening - tube as well. You can remove and plug the hose that runs to that tube if you wish or just leave it hooked up. GD

Yeah - you may have to get one from the US market. They are out there but it depends on your countries branch of FHI whether you can get one locally or not. GD

Adjust the choke so that it barely closes all the way when cold. You will have to hold the throttle open slightly to allow the choke to clear the fast idle cam so you can accurately set it. If that's not enough then set it slightly harder. It's a feel/guess/check thing so it might take a couple tries and a few days to get it correct. GD

If the gaskets don't explicitly state that you don't have to then you do (should). I generally don't - what I do is add 5 lbs to the torque value. I go to 65 Ft/lbs (IIRC) rather than (I think) 57 that the book states. Never had an issue but I've mostly used the Fel-Pro's that don't require it. GD

The port is part of the coolant passage that runs through the manifold (the coolant "cross-over" from one head to the other) and as such cannot be blocked by removing or plugging hoses. You could TIG weld the passage off from the main passage but JB weld is easier if you don't have access to a TIG and there's no danger in my experience of it blowing out - the carb base acts to back up the JB weld. GD

Yeah - water in the oil could be manifold gaskets just as easily as head gaskets. That in conjunction with an improperly routed PCV system (common with Weber conversions) will result in milkshake looking substances in the valve covers and the PCV breather lines. You have already done a lot it sounds like. Head gaskets are really not a big deal on these - if you have had it stripped to the heads for a timing belt job then going the extra distance to pull the manifold and the heads for a HG replacement isn't much more work. It's a bummer to have to go back in after doing all that stuff but it's worth it. These engines are pretty reliable if you take care of them and give them some new gaskets once in a while. I have seen many with well over 300k. And a lot of them don't make it to 300k only because of those Hitachi carbs or because people that don't do their own automotive work balk at the cost of timing belt jobs etc on cars that are often worth less than the labor to do the maintenance. GD

Don't think it - I KNOW it. Probably better than anyone else here. Whatever issues it has pale in comparison to the EA82's Hitachi carb. Trust me. If you are having running issues you should make sure it was properly jetted for the engine. That's just one of the many benefits to the Weber. You could always sell the Weber and use the profits to swap over to the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI). GD

Check the manifold-to-head gaskets - they often leak coolant into the intake ports in the head. Replace with OEM only if they are leaking. Otherwise - good chance you need head gaskets - that's pretty common at around 200k. Replace them yourself for about $100 or around $250 if you do the timing belts/water pump/main seals also. They can be done in the car and it's really not a difficult operation. Invest in a 10mm wratcheting wrench for the valve covers if you don't already have one. If the engine is otherwise sound it's easily got another 100k in it. GD

Two-peice gives smoother operation and better ground/exhaust clearance. You can use a single peice if you want. Nothing wrong with it. EA81's had single peice drive shafts and were only 5" shorter or so. GD

Bingo. The adaptors are notorious for that. GD

Dealership or junk yard as far as I know. They are very plentiful in the JY's and rarely fail. GD

Doesn't matter what's in the diaphram if you are using it as a block off by not hooking up the line. Bench test it, clean it, install it and properly hook it up. No problem. You can find many replacements that will fit in the junk yard. GD

EA81 head gaskets are really easy. Afternoon to pull the heads and another to install them afer having them gone through (if you need that). I never pull the engine for just head gaskets. Make sure to replace the intake manifold gaskets with OEM gaskets only - torque to 12 ft/lbs. GD

If you just leave the hose disconnected it will be it's own block-off plate. Otherwise - use some 1/4" plate and drill/cut to fit. You should keep the EGR though - it lowers combustion temps and keeps your exhaust valves nice and cool. There's no reason to block it off. GD

The heater core can flow either direction - it really doesn't matter. GD

The belt cover marks are not that accurate - you are correct. Same thing on my '91 22T. The last word in timing belt correctness is the tooth count between sprockets. The covers aren't all that useful. GD

It is common for the DOHC engines such as in your 98 to do that. The engine in the 99 Forester is the SOHC and they don't blow the HG's in the cooling system (so they do not overheat unless run low on coolant). They weep coolant and sometimes oil to the OUTSIDE of the engine and drip it on the ground. They are two completely different animals. Your 98 went ~100k and blew the HG's. This engine has 232k and only leaks a tiny amount of oil from the head gasket. BIG difference. GD

GD's rules to live by #23: NEVER buy a car from a dealer unless it's brand new and in such a case make sure no lot boy has touched it, pay cash, don't pay over MSRP, and scoff when they try to sell you "extra's". GD

Sounds like you have a definite ring issue with the low cylinder. Find a good used engine and install it - or just upgrade to a 90 to 94 Legacy. They are easily availible for less than $1000. Most will easily go 300k. GD

Correct - all MPFI EA82's (including the turbo) used dual intake port heads. There are two different manifolds - the XT manifold is refered to as the "spider" manifold because of it's shape. SPFI was never equipped with a turbo and shared the single intake port heads with the carb engines. GD

Change the plugs and wires. GD

You definitely have the valve timing wrong. Redo both belts. GD