GeneralDisorder

Ok - so that would be 12,500 Ohms on the secondary. At the 2K setting you need to test between one of the threaded terminals and down in the coil wire tower (down inside where the wire to the distributor cap connects to the coil). So with the ignition ON you get no voltage to the coil? That's either a problem with the fusible links, the fuses, or the ignition switch/circuit. Check the fusible links (in the black box on the side the of coolant overflow bottle) - put the DMM on the 2K setting and check that you have continuity on each of the links (with them removed) and then check that their connections are clean and tight. Then check all the cabin fuses. From there we will have to start troubleshooting the ignition circuit.... GD

Set it to the "20" on the DCV section - black lead on the negative battery terminal and the red lead on the positive coil terminal - you should see battery voltage or close to it with the ignition on. If you don't then you have a power supply issue. If you do then you need to test the coil itself - set the meter to the "20k" on the Omega (upside down horseshoe) section. Check the resistance between the positive and negative terminals and write it down. Then check the resistance between the posistive terminal and the plug wire connection point (the wire that goes to the distributor cap). Write that down as well - you may have to use the "2k" setting to get a good reading on one or the other of them. One should be around 5,000 to 20,000 Ohms (maybe higher, in which case you would have to use the 200k scale). The other will be 1 to 2 Ohms. Somewhere in there anyway. If those readings are in that range you should get spark from that coil. GD

They are different - the EA82 stuff is larger. I don't think the caliper will bolt to the EA81 knuckle. GD

With the ignition on, do you have 12v at the coil + side? If so, what are the ohm readings of the primary and secondary windings? The vac advance you will only use one of the ports. The other will not be used as it is a vacuum "retard" function used for the computer controlled feedback carburetors. Put a line on each and suck on it - whichever one moves the actuator more/father will be the one you use. Leave the other one open to atmosphere as a vent. The one you do use will hook into the front of the carb to "ported vacuum" which will be a port connecting right above the main throttle plate - so that just as the throttle plate opens the vacuum advance receives a signal. The EGR hooks to "late ported vacuum" which is another port on the front of the carb but just slightly higher than the distributor port. GD

Wow. That, my friend, is sad. Get a proper EA82 carb at least. Someone on here will probably send you one free as a charity offering. That carb is too small for that engine and that modified base will not likely hold gaskets well. Whatever tractor mechanic did that should have his tool-belt taken away. GD

No - it's a stock EA82 core support. The car (EA82 3-Door Coupe) was hit on the passenger side sometime in it's past and it crumpled the frame rail enough that I couldn't get it straight to my liking. The car is pretty much worthless but it's got a low mileage engine and a decent interior. More than anything I'm doing it as a learning experience as this will be the first front-clip replacement I've done. Oh - and spot-weld cutter's ROCK! GD

With the car on a level surface, pull the filler plug (on the rear cover) and check that the gear oil is to the bottom of the filler hole. If you can't feel any fluid with your finger then you need to add some till it just tops the bottom of the fill plug threads. As for the timing - check the valve timing by removing the outer belt cover and then lining up the middle of the three valve timing marks on the flywheel with the arrow on the timing window. Then you check that one cam mark is straight up and the other is straight down. Ignition timing you will need a timing light to accurately verify. It should be 20* BTDC with the green diagnostic plugs connected. GD

Check it with a temp gun. My '85 Brat also reads high but the temp gun shows that it's the gauge or sender that's off. Fan comes on just below the red but cycles normally. GD

Step 2: GD

Nope - get one from the junk yard. Newer Loyale's will have the update already and some older car's got the recall. GD

Depends on what you have access to and are comfortable with. I've done both and I would rather just use the Nissan - no fuss with mounting it and it keeps my Japanese car using Japanese parts. I get em cheap in the junk yards and they seem quite reliable. Not much more expensive than a comparable GM alt in the aftermarket either. GD

To prevent the battery from draining - either for long term storage or because of a troublesome electrical problem that can't be located or is difficult to fix. Usually it's the "wrong" way to fix a car, but for those that don't have the tools/time/expertise to fix the car proper it can be a short-term solution. GD

Plastic - but very thick and I've never seen one break. They also have an o-ring seal. GD

That is a noise suppressing cap - it's purely to prevent radio interference and will not adversely affect the igntion even if you completely remove it. GD

Highest HP stock EA81's were the JDM and EDM dual-carb engines - they were 108 HP - such as found in the EA81 RX coupe's and the EA81 SRX hatchback's. Best in the US market was the MPFI Turbo EA81 at 95 HP. GD

If you go all the way tight with them they will be loose due to an aged seal - but if you back them off just a hair they will stay put. This is why they went to threaded cap's on the EJ's. GD

Try the freezer/oven method. Should make it much easier and no tool required. GD

You can install the pin if you wish - doesn't make much difference. I've made new pins before from old drill bit shanks. All it drives is the accesories and as long as it's tight there's generally not an issue. Use some blue loctite on the bolt and properly torque it and you will be fine. GD

EJ donor. GD

Only if it's 2WD. A 4WD hatch tank is 11.9 gallons. GD

Yeah - sounds like the governor gear might be a problem - follow Turbone's advice and I'll add that sometimes it's not the gear but rather the plunger in them needs the edges dressed as they can get rolled over and cause it to stick in the bore. Also if it keeps eating governer gears then likely the drive gear inside the tranny is shot - you would have to pull the tranny and remove the diff section to replace the drive gear. Usually better just to find a different tranny at that point. GD

Drop by some time and we'll make one . Just need to pickup some tubing and some all-thread. Or you could bake the hubs at 225* for a few hours and put the axles in the freezer - then they should just drop in. Fancy tools are for people with too much money and not enough imagination. GD

Does this count? GD

You should ask that question over at legacycentral.org - the guys over there would know. I haven't investigated any of the suspension stuff. GD

That's expensive for a torn-up Forester. I just bought a 99 for $1500, replaced the radiator and it's golden. Yes it has 232k on it, but still - $4000 leaves a lot of room for repairs - hell I could replace the entire drivetrain for that. It's also in very nice condition inside and out. Look for something nicer before paying that kind of price. GD