GeneralDisorder

Probably an inner CV joint (Double Offset Joint). They clunk or vibrate like that. Just because the boot is intact doesn't mean the joint is good. GD

It's not neccesary. They move easily by sucking on the line. GD

The Justy engine's suffer from a specific oil pump failure that limits their ability to go for a ton of miles without a rebuild. They are also transverse engine cars like a Honda.... yuck. I stear clear of them personally. GD

Ultra Grey is a hell of a lot cheaper than Anearobic. Also I really don't like or use a lot of RTV period. It is often not the right sealant for a variety of reasons. In the case of flanged mating surfaces Anearobic is prefered as it will not harden and clog oil passages. Loctite makes a lot of very good sealing products and the VAST majority of them are not RTV. RTV has it's places, but they are few, and mostly on older engines that had inferior cork gaskets. GD

4 cylinders, 360 degree's in a full crank rotation, so 90 degrees per cylinder. Just look for both valves to close and check that the piston is at TDC using a drinking straw. Adjust the two valves for that cylinder and move on. When you get the process down it only takes about 20 minutes to do all 8 valves. GD

Newer engines can be fitted but it requires a custom adaptor plate and a custom drilled flywheel. Also a LOT of wireing modifications as well as cooling system mods to accomidate the radiator fans, different size and shape radiator hoses, etc. It's getting more common so the parts are availible to do it, but the know-how has to be there. The wireing is probably the biggest hurdle for most people - you have to strip out the ignition and fuel system wireing from the newer vehicle and piggy-back it to the existing wiring of the XT. It can and has been done, but it won't be cheap or easy if you have never done one. GD

Spring? What spring? The valve springs? No amount of adjusting the valve's will ever cause the springs to "shoot off" - they are held in place even if you remove the whole rocker assembly. Anyway - just rotate the flywheel 90 degrees till each cylinder is at TDC. The valves for that cylinder will then be loose and you can adjust them. I'm not sure what you are doing so it's difficult to help. Did you remove the rocker arms and make sure the pushrods were seated properly? Hell of a time difference - it's 11:40 PM here - must be morning for you eh? GD

Ok - the second diagram you posted is correct - but I think you're misunderstanding lies in what the marks you are lining up mean. The marks are for ignition timing - they relate only to the TDC (or BTDC/ATDC) of the #1 cylinder. They are in NO WAY related to the other three cylinders. So if you are looking for the TDC of the #2 cylinder then you have to do it by eye and by the valves. Both valves need to be closed (rocker arms loose), and the piston at the top of the bore - which you can check with a drinking straw through the plug hole. Adjust all the valves when they are loose - with each cylinder at TDC for those two valves. GD

Put the vacuum pot line to your lips and SUCK. Stick your tongue on the end of the hose to seal it - the pot should not bleed down. If you want to know what vacuum signal the pot is getting - pick up a $10 guage and hook it to the line instead of the pot. GD

Studs go all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole in the head - making them stronger and less prone to pulling the threads out of the aluminium - with a bolt you don't have full thread engagement because you can't tighten the header down if you do. More thread engagement = stronger. They also allow you to remove/install the header many times without worrying about the aluminium threads. It's really all about protecting the aluminium from damage and using studs maximizes the safety factor. GD

How much is a "small amount"? The smear of anearobic sealant should be VERY thin. Like transparent thin. It takes very little. GD

It is that style, yes, but it ONLY cools the oil supply going to the turbo to prevent cokeing in the original non-water-cooled turbo's. Pretty neat item really. It will bolt right on to the EA82's oil pump - you will have to change some supply lines to the turbo I'm sure though. GD

I just told you that - a wire from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid's male spade terminal on the back of the starer.... GD

There is no need to replace them. They can be rebuilt for a few dollars in parts - brushes and solenoid contacts are widely availible. Honda and Toyota both use Nippon starters that use the same components. GD

Never rule out a clog - pull the idle jet and inspect the tip for blockage. They are very small and I've had them clog on me whiile off-roading. Fortunately they are right on the front of the carb and easily accesible with just a flat blade screwdriver. GD

Used Weber or brand new? I would say you have a good sized vacuum leak or a clogged idle jet. GD

Crank circuit is pretty simple. Start by testing the starter by jumpering a wire from the battery to the male spade on the back. If it cranks then you have a wireing problem, if you still get only a click then you have a dead battery or a starter/solenoid problem. GD

So what problems are you having with the Weber? GD

To answer "is the car worth the conversion".... well it depends on a lot of factors. 1. How many miles are on the car? You happen to have picked up THE most reliable engine Subaru ever made. They will happily do 300k and many make it to 500k or more miles. The EA81 is almost unkillable. The carb was the weakest link and probably why a good portion of the one's that have been crushed were removed from the road. Fix that and it will probably continue to run for the usuable life of the body. Transmissions are a different issue. All of them have their quirks. The 4 speed's (4WD) have third gear syncro issues and the linkage often gets loose over time. The 3 speed automatic's are prone to their own types of failures and rarely last much over 200k. The 5 speed (2WD) transmissions are pretty decent - usually suffering also from syncro failure somewhere in the 150k to 250k range - depending on how they are driven. All of them can be replaced with the later 5 speed (4WD) transmissions from the EA82 series cars - these are known reliable to 500k or more miles. 2. How nice is the car? Interior? ect? 3. What do you plan to do with it and for how long? Now - as for the ECS light.... that means the engine was equipped with the "feedback" carburetor. Basically it's a computer controlled carb. I'll give you the short answer on this: Replace the carb and manifold. I could go into the gritty details but there's no need - trust me you need to replace the carb and manifold on this one. Don't worry - nothing has to change - you can install the carb and manifold, and just unplug the computer - everything will run just fine and the light will go away. The slight hessitation is either a vacuum leak, improper idle mixture/speed, improper timing, or the accelerator pump has ceased to function. Anyway the best remedy is to replace the whole mess and do away with all the lines and hoses. GD

EA81's had oil coolers for the turbo (same turbo). This was done because the original turbo's were not water cooled. You could, however, adapt the EA81 turbo oil cooler to the EA82 - it screws on between the pump and the filter. Note that it ONLY cools the oil supply to the turbo. It does not cool the full flow of the pump. GD

I would pull the rocker arm assemblies and verify that the pushrods are properly seated in the lifters. Then reinstall them and give it a valve adjustment. There is no way to adjust the valve timing on the EA81 - it is gear driven and completely fixed unless you pull the cam out - which requires splitting the block. GD

I'll forwarn you ahead of time - most of the users of this board are in the US and unfortunately we never received the Justy II here. I don't know if there are message boards that are more friendly towards that model or not, but here it is almost unknown. In fact I would say this is the first post that I've ever seen mentioning a "Justy II". The Justy in the US ended in the early to mid 90's and Subaru has not decided to fill that niche market up again - they don't import anything that small anymore. GD

Have you changed the manifold gaskets? Carb/Throttle body base gasket? Coolant can only enter the manifold a couple of ways - mostly through the carb/TB base or the manifold-to-head gaskets. GD

It is usually an issue with the switch contacts. They get dirty - often cleaning them will take care of the problem. I would give the pull method a try as well - can't hurt. GD

There is a speed limiter in the ECU. If you disconnect the speed sensor signal from the speedo-head that should disable it long enough to make a run. I've hit 110 without issue so I should think that 130 wouldn't be difficult. Unless you run out of RPM's - there is a fuel-cut at 6500 RPM on the stock ECU. GD