GeneralDisorder

The lower port on the front of the Weber is for the EGR. It lowers combustion temps and helps to prevent exhaust valve burning - best to hook it up also. GD

Yeah - poke a bit of window screening down in the hole and fill it with JB weld. Should hold up fine under the adaptor plate. GD

Neither is worth much in the scheme of things. The Impreza is either an EJ22 or an EJ18 depending on trim level. Personally I would take the Legacy. Easier to find parts for in general. The check engine lamp is likely an easy fix - probably a solenoid or knock sensor or something simple and it's an OBD-I car so you can pull the codes by plugging in two connectors under the dash and it will flash the codes through the CEL. The general rule on the Gen I Legacy's is that you need about $1000 to make a nice running daily - if that means buying a good runner for $1000, or buying one that needs work for $500 - seems to end up right in that range most of the time. There are exceptions and amazing deals to be found but I would never expect to pay more. They just aren't worth it unless you are talking about a special model like a 94 GT wagon or a Turbo. The Impreza will likely be an OBD-II car and would need a code reader and all that crap. Not that it's a huge deal anymore, but there's a few more sensors and such to make them OBD-II compliant.... the Imps are worth a little more but it's not a ton - figure $1500 for a good runner however you make that happen. With the rack needing replaced and the wheel bearing I would go for the Legacy as the CEL and valve cover's sound like a lot less work for a beater with a heater. GD

The carb base is heated - there is an open coolant passage under the carb that MUST be sealed or coolant will run straight into the manifold. GD

It's essentially a full timing belt job. Might as well do everything while you are in there. GD

Pull the top off the carb - the jets are at the bottom of the float bowl. Pull one out and read the number on it. Should be something like 130, 135, 140, etc. On the top of the bottom section between the float bowl and the throttle bore's you will see two brass jet looking things - these are the air bleeds. Read the numbers off the top of them. Remove them and with a straightened paper clip that has a 1/16" hook bent in the end of it reach down into the brass hole and pull out the emulsion tubes - read the numbers off those. Then pull the front (and rear if equipped) idle jet holders off the front of the carb and read the numbers off the jets inserted into the jet holders. You should have a set of 7 or 8 numbers - 2 main jets, 2 air bleeds, 2 emulsion tubes, and 1 or 2 idle jets. Bring us those numbers and we will tell you if they are close or way off or what. GD

Ok - I bought the '99 Forester with the bad gaskets. Here's the deal: 1. Radiator was BLOWN. Happened on a 107* day a few weeks back. I replaced the radiator and drove it 30 miles today. Temp gauge was rock solid at less than half, but it was only 80* today. I'm wondering what could have caused a radiator to blow the upper tank loose from the core like that if the engine apparently does not have a comp. leak into the cooling system? It got low on coolant, got too hot, and the pressure rose till the 10 year old radiator couldn't take it anymore? 2. Documents from the dealership claim the head gasket is leaking OIL. I have not heard of this in all the threads I've searched. Is that a common failure mode for these? I thought it was primarily coolant. 3. The timing belt, all idlers, and the tensioner were replaced by the dealer about 20k miles ago. I have all the documentation to show this. If I do the head gaskets I am tempted to reuse all these components as they have a ton of life left. Is there any reason not to? I am going to resell the car, but I AM going to fix it 100% right before I do. Thoughts/sugestions appreciated. GD

If it's running then how did you come to the conclusion that the rings are sticking? If the rings were truely stuck the engine wouldn't turn over let alone run.... Do you mean they aren't sealing? Have you run a comp. check to verify this? GD

Turbo's require a different engine cross-member that has the proper clearance for the up-pipe. I don't know if you guys got the turbo Brat's, coupe's and wagon's in 83/84 - if so you need an engine cross-member from one. We got them here in the US but they are rare. GD

Autozone has the head gaskets - order them online as the store's have oddball pricing sometimes. Get new manifold gaskets, and exhaust gaskets at the dealer ONLY. Replace the head gaskets in the car - you will need the aforementioned 10mm ratcheting wrench. As for the hub - inspect the axle splines VERY carefully. They are probably somewhat damaged and if so it should be replaced. You MUST replace the cone washer and bellville washer when you replace the damaged hub. Just visit any of the u-pull-it style yards and pickup an undamaged set. Torque the axle nut to 150 ft/lbs. GD

There is a LOT of difference. The EJ swap does not require modification to the engine cross-member to clear the turbo exhaust, and the EA82T is too wide to fit between the frame rails - the drivers side rail has to be cut and boxed in, and the hill holder has to be moved. No major mechanical changes like these have to be made to fit the EJ's as they are narrower than the EA82. GD

No cutting or welding required - you buy an adaptor plate (there are several folks that make them), redrill an EA82 flywheel and bolt it up to the existing transmission. The engine mounts basically line up - there's some fitting to do with the radiator fans as they have to be moved in front of the radiator, and then the radiator hoses have to be adapted to the older radiator. Then it's just wiring to piggy-back the fuel/ignition system to the car's existing harness. Pretty easy 135 HP swap. Although I think most of the Legacy/Impreza engines in the UK are EJ20's. The US market got the EJ18 and the EJ22. I think the UK market mostly got the EJ15 and the EJ20. They only got the EJ22T in the 22B impreza (rare and expensive). GD

Co-worker of mine put $5000 (yes, that is no typo - $5000) into a 91 Eclipse. The only thing that hasn't been replaced yet is the body and the paint is still shot on that. I can't even ask him about the car without him turning red and loosing a constant stream of foul lanquage. Even after $5000 (that's parts only - he's a very competant mech.) it spins itself up to 3000 RPM on a cold start which he can't figure out, it has an intermittant belt squeel that eats alternator belts about once a month, and the (third) transmission is losing it's syncro's.... I can only imagine how bad the turbo versions of these cars must be. His is not. I could give other examples of Mitsi/DSM foolishness but I digress. They are, without a doubt, some of the worst examples of automotive engineering in the last quarter century. GD

What jets are you running? GD

Not to mention he would need an EA81T engine cross-member to clear the turbo up-pipe. Not worth the trouble as the engine makes less power than the EJ22 (probably EJ20 in the UK) and is more difficult to fit into the Brat. GD

You aren't going to get what you are after without *more* than just a bolt-on. You might gain a little bit with the Weber and adding a free-flow muffler but you will probably be dissapointed with the cost/benefit ratio in the MPH/RPM range you are looking for extra performance in. The engine simply doesn't have it - you have 74 peak HP to work with and you aren't going to change that apprecieably with a carb swap. I have a 90 HP EA82 (SPFI) in my Brat and it's like a completely different car - it's actually a bit scary how much of an increase 16 HP really is on these light body's. A Weber isn't even going to give you that - *maybe* 5 HP - but probably more like 2. Mostly people do it for the low-end throttle response - and there's a lot to be said for it - you can easily chirp the tires going into 2nd with a Weber - hard to do with the Hitachi due to the vacuum secondary. And it's done for the reliability and ease of maintenance of the Weber - which beats the stock carbs hands down every day of the week. But really I don't think you are going to find what you want. You are asking too much for too little work. If you want the HP then you'll have to put a bit more time and effort into it or just buy a 2.2 Legacy wagon and park the Brat. The mileage is almost as good, the cargo room is better, and if you stop at a rest area you can actually recline the seat.... (not dogging the Brat - I own an '85 - but I stopped using it as anything more than a restro-project and weekend driver years ago. EA81's in large measure do not make good daily's). GD

Current exchange rate for US funds works out to about $205 for the tranny. I guess it depends on what it would cost to ship them here.... GD

It simply comes on when you hit positive manifold pressure. GD

They are NOT the same engine as the Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro. The Suzuki and metro both use a Suzuki engine. The Justy engine is an FHI product and is in no way related to the Swift/Metro engine. And the Suzuki engine is actually the better of the two. Lots and lots of Metro's and Swifts still on the road..... GD

I'm assuming you are talking about the front wheel bearings as the rear are a timken roller bearing assembly - I haven't sourced those in a long while. For the front just head over to McGuire bearing - you want 6207-2RS-C3's. They are about $10 each. GD

Two 5/8" hoses come off the firewall slightly to the driver's side of center. The one that connects to the manifold is the inlet. The one that connects to the water pump is the return. GD

DSM's are popular because.... well most people are morons. Everyone I've known that has had one or still does just pray's they will get to drive it for a month without it breaking. It's not the design of the car's (besides being transverse which is a design flaw in that the engineer should have had his head examined), but rather the HORRIBLE implementation - for a lot of years of the DSM's it was *normal* to have to replace the ECU every 3 to 5 years. The quality of the componets was that bad. Know how many confirmed dead Subaru ECU's I've seen or heard of..... not a single one. Now how is it that Subaru (and virtually every other Japanese brand of the time) could have an ECU produced by Hitachi or Nippon that would last 30 years and Mitsi couldn't make one that would last 5? Because they flat didn't want to is the answer. And that goes for the rest of those car's as well. They are horrible, horrible cars and anyone that owns one would be doing themselves a favor to trade it in on a Kia or just walk. Yes - even the Korean's can make better cars than Mitsubishi.... GD

Rip it off and plug the hoses with bolts. GD

Man - you a sucker for crap car's or something? Older Mitsubishi's are the worst damn cars. DSM's were almost unbelievably bad... ever wonder why you don't see old mitsu's? When was the last time you saw a might max? Bad juju friend. GD

Cracks between the valves are normal and not to be concerned about. Mill the heads and put them back on. Being a turbo though - you should probably just drive it off a cliff and be happy you have the rest of your life ahead of you to avoid that engine. GD