GeneralDisorder

Yes - just swap the flywheel from the engine you are taking out to the engine you are putting in. GD

Yes - the TB stays on the manifold. GD

Sounds like bad front wheel bearings. For each wheel you will need (2) 6207-2RS-C3 ball bearings and two seals. After you remove the wheel, brakes, and axle, you can drift the bearings out with a punch. Put the new bearings in the freezer overnight and they should go in with minimal effort. I get my bearings from McGuire bearing downtown - $10.12 each but that's with my company discount. And yes - I would replace your thermostat. Get one from the dealer as they are superior quality. GD

If it fails, remove the JB weld, use a die-grinder to put a slot along the crack and then fill it with Devcon. Or just have it TIG welded - that would be a simple repair. Hell we broke 12" off the end of a 36" aluminium pipe wrench handle at work. My boss TIG welded it back together and I've had all my weight on a 6 foot cheater pipe hanging on that repair. If the engine runs and doesn't overheat - I say weld it and save the work of putting in another engine. Don't be surprised if the JB weld doesn't hold. Especially if you didn't make a slot for it to get more purchase on the edges of the crack. GD

Get some Devcon for Aluminium - JB weld is not the right stuff to use for that type of repair. GD

I have EA82 rear coil-over's on my '84 wagon - they are far too stiff with the torsion bar in my opinion. I would get the air-shocks as sugested. Rancho probably makes one that's a direct replacement for the longer plain shocks you have now. GD

You get an ecu or you use something like MegaSquirt which is a configureable, open-source fuel and ignition management system. Then later when you want more than 95 HP you can just plug in another engine, change a couple parameters and away you go! The stock ECU's are simple and availible around this board and the XT specific board. I believe an EA82 turbo ECU will work as well as the MPFI was really just a high comp. turbo fuel/ignition system without the turbo. GD

The "tick of death" or TOD is, fortunately, anything but. It does not herald the end being nigh. In fact, no permanent damage will EVER result. You'll just have that crappy noise for eternity. The engine will still happily do 300k before it loses a major internal component. TOD is a symptom, not a problem. It is the result of air being inside the pressure chamber of the hydraulic lash adjuster (as opposed to oil, which is what it should contain). TOD has three primary causes: 1. Low oil pressure to the lifters. This is caused variously by either worn out oil pumps, leaking seals, or bad HLA banjo-bolt releif valve springs. 2. Aerated oil. This is the result of certain seals (the mickey mouse seal primarily) sucking air into the oil passages and sending it downstream to the HLA's. 3. Dirty lifters. Crud builds up inside the lifters and does not allow them to purge air bubbles or take in clean oil. The solutions are as follows and should be performed in the order given as it proceeds from least expensive to most expensive. 1. Check the oil pressure with a known good mechanical gauge. You shouldn't see less than ~ 15 psi from a hot idle directly off the pump. If you do then the pump needs to be replaced. 2. Reseal the pump to be sure it's not sucking air into the system. 3. Add some ATF, MMO, Rislone, etc to the oil - this is to clean the lifters - sometimes it works but often it's very temporary in nature as the true problem lies elsewhere. 4. Replace the cam case o-rings and check the banjo-bolt pressure releif valve spring in the cam carrier. 5. Replace all the lifters. If you do it in that order it will be cured. I can tell you that it is very likely that you will have to do #5. After they have been allowed to tick for a considerable amount of time the lifters are so worn they will not hold pressure anymore. GD

You need an EA82 carb distributor and coil. They are hall-effect units with integrated ignitors. You will lose performance going away from the MPFI - I would reccomend just wiring up the injection - it's a really simple system. GD

Yep - sounds like a lifter. If it's just a single lifter try a quart of ATF with the oil. GD

Heh - yeah I understand where you are comming from. I don't work on Automotive for a living so I can't be quite as picky. Actualy there's almost nothing I work on that I really despise - with industrial machinery form nearly always follows function and for the few designs where that isn't the case..... well they don't last very long because no one wants to maintain them In fact the older the machine is, the more keen I am to work on it and expand my knowledge base and understanding. It's amazing the things you learn when your boss drops a 1960's peice of kit on you and says "tear it down". 50% of the time I'm without any kind of documention and about 10% of the time I'm not even sure what the "item" does or is being used for . I'm dead serious - sometimes we have to call the customer and ASK them what they are using it for and the approximate performance specs it should meet! It's a very different job for sure. I particularly enjoy the variety though - you never know what tommorrow will bring. GD

Old Subaru's in general command almost nothing around here. Under $1000 for a good running Gen 1 Legacy. It's downhill from there. My '83 hatch was $250, and I was recently given a '93 Legacy LS wagon for free - I drove it home after replacing the alternator ($130). The last Legacy I actually paid for (besides my SS which is another story entirely), I paid $750 - it needed a timing belt/water pump job. GL's and older are worthless here. I see ads on craigslist wanting $500 for good running EA82's - even '88/'89 D/R cars. The adds get reposted week after week - no one is buying them. I suppose eventually they drop the price or scrap them. No one wants them. I have no more room - 6 is my limit. I think primarily it's a supply and demand thing here - VERY large supply, and less demand due to the relatively mild winters. The only people buying old Subaru's are the poor ski bums and the board member types. GD

He has an '87 three door coupe if it's got the EA82. This "knock" - what does it sound like? Could it be a lifter tick? Could the belt be off a tooth? Just having a belt snap will not damage an EA82. This knock is either unrelated, pre-existing, or due to incorrect assembly/adjustment. GD

+1 - don't use the EA82. Use an EA81 or an EJ22. EA82's are nothing but problems. GD

Sheet metal vibrations - sometimes a well placed blow with a ball-peen hammer will cure it. We had a customer with a pump that made a "strange noise" - the tech listened carefully to it..... went out to the truck and got his ball-peen hammer - smacked the motor fan shround with it one time.... no charge. GD

Use lifting straps - chain is not the prefered method for overhead lifting these days. Nylon/synthetic straps are better. Typically for an unbalanced load I use one or two straps and a small come-along to level it. GD

I agree with Brian - plug the hoses - use a bolt and a small hose clamp on each of them. They would never look for this canister as it is behind interior molding and they would have to dismantle the car. No sense replacing it and having another nipple break off. Rip that crap out - if you are feeling really handy install a small pet-cock in the end of the lines and make it reasonably accessible - then you can open them back up so the system can vent properly after they test it. GD

Turbo engines are picky. You can't rush things or you'll be looking for a new block. GD

You would have been out of luck completely on the 4 speed - they are totally different from the 5 speeds. GD

Sadly, unless you do something really horrible or don't maintain it at all the EA82 you have will probably just keep going till it hits 300k or more. They aren't the best engine Subaru ever made but it's not because they aren't mechanically sound - mostly it's little annoying stuff like the poor cooling system or the timing belts. Nothing you can really kill-off the engine over. The ticking lifters only mean that the oil is being aerated - it indicates nothing beyond that and it's common for people to go 100k+ with them ticking away like mad - no damage will result from it. The 3 speed automatic will likely claim the car before the engine does - they are less known for reliability than most Subaru transmissions. The WRX's are nice to be sure - but I don't identify with the crowd that drives them and I prefer to fly a bit more under the radar with my rigs. The insurance can be high if you are young and most of the used one's out there have been beaten like a red-headed step child by their previous ownership. You could look for a Gen 1 Turbo Legacy - that's what I have for a daily at the moment. The EJ22T (2.2 liter) is actually larger than all but the most recent WRX engines and can be built into quite a monster as it is a stronger block being partially sand-cast and closed-deck. They were 165 HP stock but "stock" is without an intercooler and a small turbo. Good for around 275 HP without any mechanical mods and there's just about no limit (800+ HP) if you start changing heads and internals. But as I said - if you need help with that EA82 just send me a PM. I have a number of boxes of parts for them and no longer own any - don't intend to either. All my rigs from now on will be EA81, or EJ series. The EA82 just doesn't fit anywhere in my engine scheme - it's too close in performance to the EA81 but without the ease of maintenance and reliability. GD

It's there, but it's a completely different shape and size - I doubt it would fit. And why do you need one? I have NEVER heard of anyone replacing one. The charcoal canister in the engine bay I could see, but the one in the rear?!? GD

Yep - totally gutless. 84 HP for the carbed engines, 90 for the throttle body injection. If you have the carbed engine you can put on a Weber - that will make it feel like it has a bit more power, and will give it more low end grunt. They accell at doing things other car's do not - the 4WD's with the dual-range transmissions are actually amazingly capable off road even in stock form. Sadly all that capability comes at the cost of not being a comfortable freeway cruiser. 84 HP just doesn't move 2500 lbs of car worth a damn. A lot of folks either upgrade to the EJ22 or relegate their GL to an off-road toy (lifts, tires, etc can be added) and buy something newer for street use - I have several EA series vehicles - a lifted wagon and a hatch that's to be lifted at some point, but I traded up to the newer gen stuff for daily driver status about 5 years ago - nothing like a turbo 2.2 with a sport suspension package to make even the boring commute a bit more fun. I'm in West Linn (south of Portland) if you need a hand or some tips I'm usually not too hard to find. GD

You working on a 22T? The sprayers aren't needed and consensus is they are just a failure waiting to happen (they very often fall out) - cap them. GD

Where in OR are you? New belts - address the cam case o-rings, oil pump and seals and maybe a new set of lifters. Probably has another 50k left in it or so - maybe more. GD

EA81's are not the easier of the two - EA82's are easier in my experience. But as with anything it depends a lot on the model/year/specifics of what you are converting. My 84 wagon.... well I'll never do another if that's any clue for you . The biggest drawback to the EA81 swap is having to change the gas tank.... BIG suck! GD