GeneralDisorder

That's true - I am more used to the EA clutches where there is a pilot in the flywheel - my mistake. GD

Sorry - "round file" is a (military?) term for trash. Or as my boss would say..... "That's a gozinta.......... gozinta the trash!" GD

What kept you from just cutting and lengthening the stock inner tie rod? Seems like you could cut the rod and sleeve it with a bit of thick-walled tubing - plug welded in several places of course.... would that have made it too thick? Or was the idea to use the stronger VW ends? This shim you made... I'm curious as to how you went about that? Did you just form a cone from a sheet of shim stock? Or was a it more involved job.... turn them out on the lathe? GD

Check the connections at the tank. The sending unit is right at the rear of the tank on the back side. It is easily accessible (just look under the bumper). The bullet connectors often corrode and the ground leads get rusty back there. If that's not it then either the sender is shot or there's a wiring issue somewhere under all the interior bits in the car. I don't recommend removing the sending unit unless you are good with rusty bolts/nuts/studs - the potential for breaking some of the mounting studs is VERY high. GD

If you completely remove the bleeder screw they thread right in without much effort. Messy, but less frustration. I just use a pair of needle nose pliers and they go right in *almost* every time. I have run across a few that were broken and wouldn't thread in at all..... but that's another problem at that point. GD

You don't have a choke. You have a throttle body injected engine - carbs have chokes, injection does not. Clean the IAC - yes you have to remove it. You can't clean the CTS - it is a thermistor and it is either good or bad. Test it's resistance at various temps and report them back to this post and I'll tell you if it's good. It is located on the left side of the manifold near the thermostat housing. It has a two-pin green plug. Pull the codes from the computer and find out what it's complaining about or what it has complained about in the past. Likely you need a new CTS, clean the IAC properly, possibly clean the MAF, and replace the O2 sensor and you should be well on your way to a properly running SPFI system. GD

Easy out's are BAD - don't use one if you can help it - they very often break. Anyhing is better. Best way is to weld a nut to what's left and turn it out. GD

Non-turbo EA82 heads don't crack severely enough to leak coolant and if the did it would be into the exhaust ports not the chamber. No - What you have is run-of-the-mill head gasket failure. Nothing exotic and unless the engine has been severely overheated multiple times you probably aren't looking at warped heads either. Unless you have a machinist's straight-edge that has a truely flat surface that you can check them aganst you are better served just spending the $75 and having them milled - 95% chance you could ignore it and gasket slap the thing and never have another problem. This isn't rocket science and we aren't building swiss watches here.... GD

Clutch kits are pretty generic anymore. The engine puts down 135 HP so clamping force really isn't going to be an issue. If it were me, I would likely buy a reman disc and pressure plate from one of the online sources and then buy high end pilot and TO bearings. I think you are over-thinking the clutch selection. Disc and pressure plate failures are incredibly rare. Get whatever is in your budget anc makes you comfortable - just don't cheap out on the bearings. If it is cheaper to buy a whole kit and then round file the cheap bearings then so be it.... it is incredibly frustrating to have to go back in to replace a failed TO before the clutch has reached the end of it's life because you then may as well do the whole shootin match again... thus my goal is always to avoid premature bearing failure at all costs. Buy those at the dealership if you can't find any other source you trust. GD

What you are looking at is the inner tie rod - it is a ball joint and has no adjustment. If you pull back the boot you will see where it threads onto the rack. They are inexpensive and it's good practice to replace both. You will obviously need an alignment and if it were me I would replace both tie rod ends as well. GD

It is mostly wiring. You have to strip out the FI portion of the donor car's harness (fuel, ignition, computer, and all relevant sensors), and piggyback it to the vehicle's existing harness. It can be a daunting task if you are not uses to it. The ecu has about 50 wires - input, output, power, ground, etc, and the majority of them have to stay. If you are not comfortable with dealing with all that and the potential learning curve to troubleshoot the installation then i sugest you swap the manifolds and use your existing carb on the SPFI block. GD

The SPFI regulated pressure is 21 psi. Deadhead pressure is 50 psi. Do a search for Ford F-150 fuel pumps here on the board. They have been succesfully retrofit many times and they are very cheap. GD

How comfortable are you with wiring, schematics, etc? GD

Intresting - how much of an increase in clearance was that good for? You have 14" now - what was it before? So how did you run across the tie rods and ends that you used? And what was the tap for? Pics of it assembled? GD

Much easier than your EA82T - pull the engine up and forward - you don't even have to remove it from the engne bay. Non-turbo clutch replacements are easy. I would definitely consider doing it yourself. GD

Anything is possible, but it will not directly function with an unmodified stock computer.... if that's what you are asking. GD

1. Put the choke back on - use the Hitachi's rubber spacer to get some height and then put a dent in the PS reservoir large enough to clear the choke. No it won't hurt it. 2. Whichever vac line on the distributor pulls on the advance plate is the one you hook to the carb. Leave the other open. 3. Hook the EGR line (or add a line going to the EGR valve) to the other port on the front of the carb - the one that's currently blocked by a small brass screw. 4. Yes you need the power brake booster line. Leave it. 5. Use the throttle linkage from the Hitachi - just bolt it on the Weber's shaft and then fabricate a holder for the throttle cable and adjust it so the cable is just barely tight when the choke has pulled off and the fast idle cam is not engaged. 6. Warm it up before tuning the idle speed and mixture. The mixture should be at around 2.5 turns out, and the throttle plate should be barely cracked open. Just tune it by ear - turn the screw out till it stumbles (rich) and then in till it stumbles again (lean) and pick something in the middle of those two. Usually as lean as you can get it with a solid idle. GD

The guy who wrote that.... which apparently wasn't you. Being that you asked, I find it disconcerting that you wish to lash out at me for providing what information I could. I doesn't engender an environment where I wish to help you in the future. GD

Bolt pattern is the same but the EA82 holes are about 2mm larger diameter. One of them is thicker by about 2mm - can't recall which just at the moment. The step spec for the pressure plate is slightly different. All of these can be overcome for swapping them in any way you like. It's a matter of using the right clutch components - some EA82 discs for example will not fit inside the EA81 pressure plate. GD

In all seriousness I wouldn't try that - at least not with a sealed bearing as I'm not sure what would happen to the rubber seals and the grease inside. I'm pretty sure some greases will break down if you freeze them like that and I would be concerned about the differential contraction rates of the steel and the rubber seal. I think you would probably regret the results. As I don't have any liquid nitro to play with I can't say for sure.... I would rather wait for the deep-freeze to do it's magic. GD

The mixture screw is only for the idle mixture - which can affect the transition from idle circuit to primary but will not affect anything once the throttle has been cracked open. If you want to make changes to the primamary and secondary circuit mixtures you will need to start changing jets and air bleeds. I sugest investing in a wide-band O2 sensor for tuning if you are really serious about it - takes much of the voodoo, ritualistic magic out of tuning carbs. The Weber is a good choice for replacing the stock carb if carb technology is what you are looking for (and many folks are). It's not a "performance" enhancement and never has been touted as such (at least by me). It will increase your off-idle torque simply due to the progressive linkage and many folks have mistaken this for a performance increase - in a way it is, but the HP of the engine has not changed appreciably. It makes them feel a bit more sporty and sometimes that's all they need. If you want real performance increase the Weber is *capable* of supporting the mods neccesary for it - porting and polishing, and cam changes being the most common. The 32/36 can nicely accomidate modifications if you rejet it as you go. The stock carb cannot. The SPFI is a better choice in my opinion as it will do everything the Weber will do but requires no tuning even for mild performance modifications. GD

Classic hydraulic lash adjuster ticking. Check this thread - i made a post about the procedure to track down the cause. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102428 GD

It's the additives that make it different - it's all based on glycol - we have run across similar problems with import equipment at work. The Isuzu engines that come to the US from Japan have a coolant that does not have a direct replacement here in the states. Anyway - if you flush out ALL the original coolant it can be replaced with something like Dexcool (which is the modern GM long-life coolant) that's available anywhere. It's really not rocket science - it's glycol with some additives. The color is meaningless as there is so much variation in the industry that it's impossible to tell anything about the stuff from it's color. What you are looking for is a long-life glycol mix that is not going to attack plastic, ferrous metals, or aluminium. Dexcool will suffice and as long as you do a thorough flush you won't have problems with additive interactions. GD

The only difference is two wires on the distributor. Or you can simply pick up any 88+ EA82 FI distributor to go along with your 88+ ECU and you will be fine. GD

You need two per wheel so if you do both wheels you are looking at 100 bucks - plus the ones from shucks won't be -2RS (sealed) so you would need grease and you will be packing them yourself..... no thank - not for that kind of money. Lets see.... you are in lake-o so head over to applied industrial off tualitin-sherwood - call first and make sure they have them in stock though as they aren't as big as McGuire. The freezer trick works good when you would rather avoid heating something or when you don't have a big enough torch. GD