GeneralDisorder

Autozone has the head gaskets - order them online as the store's have oddball pricing sometimes. Get new manifold gaskets, and exhaust gaskets at the dealer ONLY. Replace the head gaskets in the car - you will need the aforementioned 10mm ratcheting wrench. As for the hub - inspect the axle splines VERY carefully. They are probably somewhat damaged and if so it should be replaced. You MUST replace the cone washer and bellville washer when you replace the damaged hub. Just visit any of the u-pull-it style yards and pickup an undamaged set. Torque the axle nut to 150 ft/lbs. GD

There is a LOT of difference. The EJ swap does not require modification to the engine cross-member to clear the turbo exhaust, and the EA82T is too wide to fit between the frame rails - the drivers side rail has to be cut and boxed in, and the hill holder has to be moved. No major mechanical changes like these have to be made to fit the EJ's as they are narrower than the EA82. GD

No cutting or welding required - you buy an adaptor plate (there are several folks that make them), redrill an EA82 flywheel and bolt it up to the existing transmission. The engine mounts basically line up - there's some fitting to do with the radiator fans as they have to be moved in front of the radiator, and then the radiator hoses have to be adapted to the older radiator. Then it's just wiring to piggy-back the fuel/ignition system to the car's existing harness. Pretty easy 135 HP swap. Although I think most of the Legacy/Impreza engines in the UK are EJ20's. The US market got the EJ18 and the EJ22. I think the UK market mostly got the EJ15 and the EJ20. They only got the EJ22T in the 22B impreza (rare and expensive). GD

Co-worker of mine put $5000 (yes, that is no typo - $5000) into a 91 Eclipse. The only thing that hasn't been replaced yet is the body and the paint is still shot on that. I can't even ask him about the car without him turning red and loosing a constant stream of foul lanquage. Even after $5000 (that's parts only - he's a very competant mech.) it spins itself up to 3000 RPM on a cold start which he can't figure out, it has an intermittant belt squeel that eats alternator belts about once a month, and the (third) transmission is losing it's syncro's.... I can only imagine how bad the turbo versions of these cars must be. His is not. I could give other examples of Mitsi/DSM foolishness but I digress. They are, without a doubt, some of the worst examples of automotive engineering in the last quarter century. GD

What jets are you running? GD

Not to mention he would need an EA81T engine cross-member to clear the turbo up-pipe. Not worth the trouble as the engine makes less power than the EJ22 (probably EJ20 in the UK) and is more difficult to fit into the Brat. GD

You aren't going to get what you are after without *more* than just a bolt-on. You might gain a little bit with the Weber and adding a free-flow muffler but you will probably be dissapointed with the cost/benefit ratio in the MPH/RPM range you are looking for extra performance in. The engine simply doesn't have it - you have 74 peak HP to work with and you aren't going to change that apprecieably with a carb swap. I have a 90 HP EA82 (SPFI) in my Brat and it's like a completely different car - it's actually a bit scary how much of an increase 16 HP really is on these light body's. A Weber isn't even going to give you that - *maybe* 5 HP - but probably more like 2. Mostly people do it for the low-end throttle response - and there's a lot to be said for it - you can easily chirp the tires going into 2nd with a Weber - hard to do with the Hitachi due to the vacuum secondary. And it's done for the reliability and ease of maintenance of the Weber - which beats the stock carbs hands down every day of the week. But really I don't think you are going to find what you want. You are asking too much for too little work. If you want the HP then you'll have to put a bit more time and effort into it or just buy a 2.2 Legacy wagon and park the Brat. The mileage is almost as good, the cargo room is better, and if you stop at a rest area you can actually recline the seat.... (not dogging the Brat - I own an '85 - but I stopped using it as anything more than a restro-project and weekend driver years ago. EA81's in large measure do not make good daily's). GD

Current exchange rate for US funds works out to about $205 for the tranny. I guess it depends on what it would cost to ship them here.... GD

It simply comes on when you hit positive manifold pressure. GD

They are NOT the same engine as the Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro. The Suzuki and metro both use a Suzuki engine. The Justy engine is an FHI product and is in no way related to the Swift/Metro engine. And the Suzuki engine is actually the better of the two. Lots and lots of Metro's and Swifts still on the road..... GD

I'm assuming you are talking about the front wheel bearings as the rear are a timken roller bearing assembly - I haven't sourced those in a long while. For the front just head over to McGuire bearing - you want 6207-2RS-C3's. They are about $10 each. GD

Two 5/8" hoses come off the firewall slightly to the driver's side of center. The one that connects to the manifold is the inlet. The one that connects to the water pump is the return. GD

DSM's are popular because.... well most people are morons. Everyone I've known that has had one or still does just pray's they will get to drive it for a month without it breaking. It's not the design of the car's (besides being transverse which is a design flaw in that the engineer should have had his head examined), but rather the HORRIBLE implementation - for a lot of years of the DSM's it was *normal* to have to replace the ECU every 3 to 5 years. The quality of the componets was that bad. Know how many confirmed dead Subaru ECU's I've seen or heard of..... not a single one. Now how is it that Subaru (and virtually every other Japanese brand of the time) could have an ECU produced by Hitachi or Nippon that would last 30 years and Mitsi couldn't make one that would last 5? Because they flat didn't want to is the answer. And that goes for the rest of those car's as well. They are horrible, horrible cars and anyone that owns one would be doing themselves a favor to trade it in on a Kia or just walk. Yes - even the Korean's can make better cars than Mitsubishi.... GD

Rip it off and plug the hoses with bolts. GD

Man - you a sucker for crap car's or something? Older Mitsubishi's are the worst damn cars. DSM's were almost unbelievably bad... ever wonder why you don't see old mitsu's? When was the last time you saw a might max? Bad juju friend. GD

Cracks between the valves are normal and not to be concerned about. Mill the heads and put them back on. Being a turbo though - you should probably just drive it off a cliff and be happy you have the rest of your life ahead of you to avoid that engine. GD

Not exactly. The gen 1 legacy turbo's, while looking similar on the outside to their NA siblings, are almost completely different cars. The engine is an entirely different beast, they use a pusher-style clutch and different transmission, the engine cross-member is different to allow for the up-pipe to the turbo.... even the whole front core support is different to accomidate the turbo's radiator. The swap can and has been done, but it's almost always done using a wrecked donor. I have a 91 Legacy turbo (the best year - oil cooler, rear VLSD, etc), and I love it. It's real easy to make 250 HP with them just by adding an IC, bigger turbo, and opening up the exhaust a bit. And your's isn't particularly rare - lots of L models came with 5 speed's. I had a 94 GT wagon not long ago with a 5 speed as well. I can find them on craigslist weekly. GD

It's a rare color, but I've seen a few over the years. I really like it personally and would love to get my hands on a pristene example. I would EJ it of course... GD

I just can't get past the look of the things. I guess I just don't think I would fit in one without looking like a complete fool - I'm 6' 2" and 225 lbs.... I think it would look like a circus car on me :-\. But I think they have potential - especially with the 4WD. ECVT are to be avoided I would think and as long as you rebuild the engine properly.... I heard the oil pumps were getting hard to find as well.... GD

Have to pull the cluster to get to them. Not terrible, but not the most fun job ever. Dealership is the only source for interior stuff like that. Or a junk yard but you won't find many 98's. A few, but not many. You could call around and see what you can find but I know when I bought a replacement trunk handle for my 91 it was only like $25 brand new from the dealer. GD

As slow as you would expect a 65 HP car to be. They aint fast that's for damn sure. GD

Agreed - with all the head gasket/piston slap/rod issues of the EJ25, I would MUCH rather have an EJ22 with 200k (they are good to 300k+ easily) than any of the EJ25's with the exception of the very new models. Most of the early one's had head gasket failure around 100k or shortly after. Some as early as 50k. GD

Flip the parking light rocker switch on top of the steering column to "off" The virgin switch strikes again! GD

I beleive it's the other way around. And I don't beleive that the N/A EJ22 was sandcast either. IIRC, the EJ22 and the EJ25 are both die cast. The sand cast blocks are the pre-96 EJ20T's and the EJ22T's. All the NA motors in the EJ line are die-cast as far as I know (open deck). And sand casting is the stronger, better process. It's also twice as expensive due to the problems with removing the sand and the finishing that is required afterwards. The die-cast process requires much less post-cast machine work. GD

Wireing mostly. But for the extra ~25 HP - why bother? The 2.5RS engines from the 90's were not great engines - if you want a fast car with possibilities then get something with a Turbo. GD