GeneralDisorder

Does sound like a bad bearing - the shuddering could be an axle but it could also be torque bind - does the car have an automatic transmission? GD

Everything that needs asking has been asked, yes. And the rest is over on NASIOC because the reality is that the LC forum is mostly a bunch of guys with EJ22T's and that engine is just an early EJ turbo - very similar in most respects to the EJ20T's and the EJ25T's in the WRX and STi variants of the USDM Impreza. GD

The inner bearing seal is also different on the EA82's IIRC. But you could likely just use an EA81 inner seal and it would be fine. The ball joint's are different. The EA82 ball joint doesn't work in the EA81 control arm. There are ways around that but it does require a bit of fabrication to overcome. GD

The choke housings are riveted from the factory and aren't supposed to need adjustment. It could be that someone turned up the idle speed screw because the carb refuses to idle due to either a clogged idle circuit or a bad vacuum leak etc. If I had a penny for every time I've run across a carb set that way because the previous owner had no clue about carbs I would have...... like probably 15 or 20 cents GD

There is a fuel pump relay on the SPFI - the ECU controls the ground for the relay. Check for +12v to both the coil and the contacts on the relay with the ignition ON. Then check for ground - you should have ground at all times on the contact side of the relay, but only have ground when the ECU tells the fuel pump to run (for a second at key-on, while cranking, and cycling on/off with the green diag. plugs connected) on the coil side of the relay. The relay's pin-out is written on the side of the relay itself. GD

You might be able to lower the fuel pressure to compensate for the larger injectors if the difference is small as you surmise. Then bring the pressure back up when it's time for more air. At any rate don't even think about doing this without a wide-band (lean = BAD). GD

Just install a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I wouldn't trust the "smash the regulator" technique farther than I could throw a blown EA82T. Stuff like that might be ok with Nissan engines that are more bullet-proof than the EA82T, but you are dealing with a very picky engine - you need to *know* what's going on - buy an adjustable regulator. GD

Ok - first - how is the battery and what works/doesn't work on the car right now. Does ANYTHING happen when you turn the key on? I'm assuming that since you were looking for spark that the crank circuit is ok but how are the rest of the accesory circuits? There is a main feed wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box - it supplies one whole side of the box with 12v - so you should have 12v on one side of each of the fusible links. Sounds like the links are ok - 0 means there is no resistance (0 Ohms) and that's as it should be with them. First we have to determine if the ignition switch is good and if there is voltage to the switch..... One thing just occured to me - the folks that redid this engine as a carb (bless their wretched soul's) could have wired it in all kinds of funky ways. Perhaps a good picture of the coil area would help me to see what has been done and try to direct you further. We are working with a kludged together system and there won't be a wireing diagram in any book for it. So it's going to be a guess and check sort of deal and although you don't know much about the electrical side of things now..... you will before this is done I suspect. GD

Yeah - today is lazy for me. It's my birthday and I think the woman is dragging me out of the house.... I may be leaving shortly so I might not get another reply in. If not maybe someone else can help or I'll be back later. I'll try to check from my phone.... GD

Ok - so that would be 12,500 Ohms on the secondary. At the 2K setting you need to test between one of the threaded terminals and down in the coil wire tower (down inside where the wire to the distributor cap connects to the coil). So with the ignition ON you get no voltage to the coil? That's either a problem with the fusible links, the fuses, or the ignition switch/circuit. Check the fusible links (in the black box on the side the of coolant overflow bottle) - put the DMM on the 2K setting and check that you have continuity on each of the links (with them removed) and then check that their connections are clean and tight. Then check all the cabin fuses. From there we will have to start troubleshooting the ignition circuit.... GD

Set it to the "20" on the DCV section - black lead on the negative battery terminal and the red lead on the positive coil terminal - you should see battery voltage or close to it with the ignition on. If you don't then you have a power supply issue. If you do then you need to test the coil itself - set the meter to the "20k" on the Omega (upside down horseshoe) section. Check the resistance between the positive and negative terminals and write it down. Then check the resistance between the posistive terminal and the plug wire connection point (the wire that goes to the distributor cap). Write that down as well - you may have to use the "2k" setting to get a good reading on one or the other of them. One should be around 5,000 to 20,000 Ohms (maybe higher, in which case you would have to use the 200k scale). The other will be 1 to 2 Ohms. Somewhere in there anyway. If those readings are in that range you should get spark from that coil. GD

They are different - the EA82 stuff is larger. I don't think the caliper will bolt to the EA81 knuckle. GD

With the ignition on, do you have 12v at the coil + side? If so, what are the ohm readings of the primary and secondary windings? The vac advance you will only use one of the ports. The other will not be used as it is a vacuum "retard" function used for the computer controlled feedback carburetors. Put a line on each and suck on it - whichever one moves the actuator more/father will be the one you use. Leave the other one open to atmosphere as a vent. The one you do use will hook into the front of the carb to "ported vacuum" which will be a port connecting right above the main throttle plate - so that just as the throttle plate opens the vacuum advance receives a signal. The EGR hooks to "late ported vacuum" which is another port on the front of the carb but just slightly higher than the distributor port. GD

Wow. That, my friend, is sad. Get a proper EA82 carb at least. Someone on here will probably send you one free as a charity offering. That carb is too small for that engine and that modified base will not likely hold gaskets well. Whatever tractor mechanic did that should have his tool-belt taken away. GD

No - it's a stock EA82 core support. The car (EA82 3-Door Coupe) was hit on the passenger side sometime in it's past and it crumpled the frame rail enough that I couldn't get it straight to my liking. The car is pretty much worthless but it's got a low mileage engine and a decent interior. More than anything I'm doing it as a learning experience as this will be the first front-clip replacement I've done. Oh - and spot-weld cutter's ROCK! GD

With the car on a level surface, pull the filler plug (on the rear cover) and check that the gear oil is to the bottom of the filler hole. If you can't feel any fluid with your finger then you need to add some till it just tops the bottom of the fill plug threads. As for the timing - check the valve timing by removing the outer belt cover and then lining up the middle of the three valve timing marks on the flywheel with the arrow on the timing window. Then you check that one cam mark is straight up and the other is straight down. Ignition timing you will need a timing light to accurately verify. It should be 20* BTDC with the green diagnostic plugs connected. GD

Check it with a temp gun. My '85 Brat also reads high but the temp gun shows that it's the gauge or sender that's off. Fan comes on just below the red but cycles normally. GD

Step 2: GD

Nope - get one from the junk yard. Newer Loyale's will have the update already and some older car's got the recall. GD

Depends on what you have access to and are comfortable with. I've done both and I would rather just use the Nissan - no fuss with mounting it and it keeps my Japanese car using Japanese parts. I get em cheap in the junk yards and they seem quite reliable. Not much more expensive than a comparable GM alt in the aftermarket either. GD

To prevent the battery from draining - either for long term storage or because of a troublesome electrical problem that can't be located or is difficult to fix. Usually it's the "wrong" way to fix a car, but for those that don't have the tools/time/expertise to fix the car proper it can be a short-term solution. GD

Plastic - but very thick and I've never seen one break. They also have an o-ring seal. GD

That is a noise suppressing cap - it's purely to prevent radio interference and will not adversely affect the igntion even if you completely remove it. GD

Highest HP stock EA81's were the JDM and EDM dual-carb engines - they were 108 HP - such as found in the EA81 RX coupe's and the EA81 SRX hatchback's. Best in the US market was the MPFI Turbo EA81 at 95 HP. GD

If you go all the way tight with them they will be loose due to an aged seal - but if you back them off just a hair they will stay put. This is why they went to threaded cap's on the EJ's. GD