GeneralDisorder

What do you mean by this? What kind of failure? Where was the oil *not* getting and what did that cause? Have the oil passages in the crank been checked? Have you blown compressed air through all the passages in the block and crank with a rubber tipped blow-gun to insure there is no blockages? How long have you cranked it with the plugs out before determining you don't have oil pressure? It usually takes about 30 seconds for them to prime if you have filled the oil filter already. GD

The adjuster is a sqaure pyramid shaped thing so it's normal for them to be "notchy" like that. The drum won't come off till you back off the adjuster - it's catching on the edge of the drum where the shoes have worn it down. There is now a ridge there that the shoes must clear. Back off the adjuster as far as possible and smack the drum a few times to dislodge the shoes. Should pull right off. GD

The hex plugs on the pump are likely for a gauge sending unit - which could be availible in other countries. The pump housing is used for many pumps across several different sized engines I'm sure. EA series engines had oil pressure sending unit's located around that area as the US versions of those cars had oil pressure gauges. They could be used durring manufacture for quality control and/or to drill internal passages. GD

Subaru oil pumps are georotor's and they are a positive displacement, self-priming pump. They cannot cavitate. If it's not pumping oil then you have assembled it wrong or it's broken. GD

You would then have the MPFI non-turbo EA82 as seen in the late 80's XT's. The benefit is about 9 HP with fuel injection, 9.5:1 comp. pistons, and the right cam. Not worth the effort. GD

Does it shoot a 2' gyser of coolant out the radiator fill neck if you leave the cap off? If so you definitely have a blown head gasket. Under normal circumstances nothing but a few gentle air bubbles will escape from the filler neck. I always leave the cap off when I'm starting an engine newly filled with coolant. This allows me to see how the level reacts. It should not go anywhere. Sometimes the level drops, and sometimes it will surge a bit but it never really boils out unless the head gaskets are blown. GD

Well - appearances can be deceiving - check them for continuity and make sure the connections are clean and tight at each one. Beyond that - there isn't anything that is very common to those systems according to the diagrams in my FSM - maybe they have some common grounding points in the harness but their power supplies are not related. If the fuses are all glood in the fuse panel I would check the ignition switch harness under the column as those tend to get burnt and have problems. Bench testing the ignition switch would be a good idea. I would start checking the harness grounding points for corrosion as it sounds like you aren't passing enough current to close relay's but still enough to power some circuits. The ciggarette lighter outlet is prone to corrosion and loose connections so it may or may not be related. GD

You can't - they are a interferenace fit to the knuckle and removing them will neccesarily damage them. They are 6207-C3 bearings and any bearing house can get you new one's for $10 each. You will need the seals also as those too will be destroyed durring removal. I sugest you get the 6207-2RS-C3 bearings (sealed and pre-greased) and avoid the potential for contamination of the grease later and improper grease loading. Get yourself 4 bearings and 4 seals. Drive the bearings out with a brass drift and drift the new one's in. Don't forget the spacer that goes between them and apply a little grease to the outside of the seals on the new bearings and to the spacer and the inner lip of the seals. GD

Size up the owner and his/her story, etc. Total judgement call. GD

There is no need to press the axle in/out of the knuckle. Just pound it out with a soft face hammer or a small sledge and block of wood. GD

The heads are not different. You would have to pull the entire engine as it is mostly the block that is different. The casting allows the removal of the lifters without splitting the bock. The rocker are assemblies and the hollow steel pushrods are the other differences. Also if it was not wrecked it might have serious issues. Hard to tell though. These really aren't uncommon in the yards here but it is half price weekend and all.... GD

Check the fusible links under the hood. GD

EA81 turbo's have different heads as well. The injectors are mounted directly on the head. Besides that the system is very primitive and parts are very difficult to find. If you wanted to swap the heads I suppose you could probably make it work. But the ECU is tuned for a 7.7:1 compression ratio and forced induction. You would be better off just using the heads for the injector bosses and then mounting an EA82 SPFI manifold for the TB and using MegaSquirt to run it. GD

He's right - valve guides typically have to be knurled in order to stay in place. I wouldn't even bother with it - just get another head - they are a dime a dozen. GD

ECU has nothing to do with the oil pressure gauge. GD

You are running out of fuel. Either because the boost is too high and the ECU is cutting it off or you have clogged fuel filter or something. Install a fuel pressure guage and watch what happens when you go WOT with it. You could also need new plugs and wires in a real bad way - I've seen turbo cars have ignition problems under boost due to improperly gapped plugs and poor leads. GD

The gauge and sending unit are electrically coupled. Chances are you just found a wireing short or loose connection while you were changing the hose. GD

McGuire is open on Saturday but only till like noon. You did mark the location and count the number of turns when removing the retainers right? This sets the hypoid gear backlash on the front diff and if you set it wrong the diff will last about a week. GD

Should fit fine, yes. GD

I haven't had much luck with knock sensor's in pulling used one's. They are cheap and it's better in the long run if I have to replace it once vs. multiple times. They aren't a particularly rare failure so it's just as well that you buy a new one IMO. GD

The core's should interchange, yes. I put a 93 Loyale core into an 86 sedan once so I think they are all pretty much the same. It's pretty straight-forward. Pull the gauge cluster surround and then the cluster itself. Pull the radiao and the heater control cluster. Pull the glovebox and all the panels under the dash on both sides. Pull the steering wheel, drop the column, pull the dash and put it in the back seat. Yank the heater core "container" and remove the core. You will then want to go to Home Depot and get some replacement foam. Scrape off the old foam, clean the surfaces, and cut/apply your foam tape. Then slide the replacement core into the box and reverse your dissasembly steps. There is a lot of electrical plugs to keep track of so you might want to label them. It's about a 6 to 10 hour job depending on how many you have done in the past. I've done a couple of EA82's, and a Gen 1 Legacy so far. It's not a difficult job just time consuming and annoying. GD

There really isn't any room in either of those places and I doubt you will get it between the headlight buckets when you add the couplings for the inlet/outlet. Best option with these cars is a top mount but if you are set on a fmic the it's pretty much got to go below/behind the bumper. GD

I agree - heck I still don't know where he hails from..... I was just offering the west coast view on the car's. Out here we tend to have more Legacy's in the junk yards - very few Imps - only a handful really and only the early 90's stuff. They are more valued due to their smaller size and often better mileage - also every kid wants one to "STi swap!" Thus my comment about the Legacy being easier to find parts for - under any rock really. The Imp would be harder but then of course you have the aftermarket and in the comming years I would expect the picture to brighten up. Really there shouldn't be much of a problem with either one. But my preference is always toward what I can maintain with the least amount of money and the Legacy he is looking at *probably* needs less work. I admit that I don't give much thought to looks or aftermarket parts availibility but that may be a concern for some. GD

Blue book is $4250. I'll be starting it at $3500. The car is VERY nice and has a superb maintenance reccord. Being a phase II EJ25 it's also a great candidate for an EJ22 swap. There's a lot of potential regardless of the mileage. GD

Maybe you could take a picture? Not being familair with the layout of the RHD cars I'm not sure what would be located in that area. That's the general area of the heater core hoses here in the land of LHD, but I don't know what your's looks like.... GD